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Stumped on a 2001 No Crank issue

Old 10-06-2017, 01:29 AM
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Stumped on a 2001 No Crank issue-Solved Ignition switch

Hey guys,
I have a 2001 CTD QCLB AT 4x4 that I am having a "no crank" issue on, and I need a little hand holding. The truck has been sitting for a bit over a year, and functioned fine the last time it was running.
Here is what I know and what I have tried:

-Batteries are newish and fully charged at 12.7v.

-All PDC and cabin fuses appear intact

-When ignition is turned to the ON position all the cabin electronics come on and function, lights, stereo etc

-When ignition is turned to START a relay clicks in the PDC, but it is the blower motor relay (I had my brother cycle the ignition while I had my finger on it, and I can feel thats the one. I dont understand that. Lights do NOT dim.

-FASS lift pump is operational and comes on

-I switched around the relays to make sure the best I can the starter relay is ok.

-The starters main power wire is getting 12v

-Starter solenoid small wire gets no power with the ignition turned to the START position

-If I "Jump" the starter (connect the main wire to the small) the starter engages

The last thing I can think of to eliminate from contention would be the Neutral Safety Switch. I have no idea how that could go bad just sitting parked, but Im sure stranger things have happened.
How can I test the NSS to eliminate it?

The only other thing I can think to mention is that I have a number of DTC codes, some associated with a dead VP44. As I mentioned, the truck was running fine (no dead pedal or other vp issues I can think of) before I stored it. A Bad VP 44 wouldn't prevent the starter from cranking, would it?

Here are all the codes I am getting
P1693 DTC codes detected
P1688 Internal fuel inj pump control failure
P0215 Fuel Inj pump control circuit
P1689 - No Communication Between ECM and Injection Pump Module Data link circuit failure between ECM and fuel injection pump.
P0382/0380 Intake air heater relay circuit
P0602 Unrecognized software( I have a smarty and a Quadzilla with the pump tapped)

Id really appreciate any suggestions. Its been way to long since I have heard the beast roar.
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Old 10-06-2017, 11:41 PM
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I had some of those dead VP44 codes until I removed the electrical connection on the aft side of the VP44, sprayed both contacts with electrical contact spray cleaner, blew them clean and dry with an air hose, added dielectric grease and reconnected it.

Try that to remove the codes.

Donít what to tell you the starter. Maybe make sure all the contacts are clean and tight.
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:49 AM
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Appreciate the heads up on the vp44 stuff. I hoping this one is ok. I have a II hotrod pump, but I have decided to p pump it, so id prefer to sell that instead of installing it in place of a bad vp.

The starter IS functioning. It has to be something between the key and the starter. Im going to rule out the neutral safety switch and if that doesnt do it, check the ignition switch tomorrow. I cant understand how those would go out just sitting, but Im sure its not the first time something weird has happened on a dodge truck.
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:29 AM
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So I "jumpered" the NSS. Nothing at first, but when I jiggled the shifter between P and R and turned the key I got a bump from the starter . I let off because I havent started it for some time and I was going to pull the #9 cabin fuse once it was willing to crank to work some oil into the motor before actually starting it. Of course I found out that I have a fuel line crack in the blue FASS hose to the VP, so I dumped half a gallon of fuel on the ground).
After that I could not reproduce the starter bump no matter how I oriented the shifter. The other odd thing was the trailer controller wanted to stay on even with the key removed. That should be wired to ignition hot. Still confused. I am leaning towards believing that its the ignition switch, and the bump was a coincidence that I initially attributed to the NSS being bypassed, but actually has to do with something on the column.
Does that make any sense to anyone?
I didnt have much time to mess with it, but will test that I the starter relay slot tomorrow. If the NSS is jumpered, and I am still not getting anything, it has to be the something between the key and the PDC, doesnt it? eitehr the switch itself of somehow a loose wire?
Thanks guys
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:11 AM
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My trailer plug stays hot when the key is off. Must be a Dodge thing. I unplug the TH if I leave it hitched for an overnight stop.
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:13 PM
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Two things I would look at before replacing parts is the harness underthe steering column, they are known for breaking wires especially if you use the tilt a lot. I have also seen more than once the solenoid wire break or burn off right above the starter. The heavy starter cable and trigger wire run together and are held with grounded metal clamps which can rub through over time. It should have a plug to test for voltage at while cranking right up near the drivers battery, near the fuse box.


Good luck.
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:25 PM
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UPDATE...

Heres whats up:

The results were the same no matter if the Neutral Safety as plugged in, or jumpered/bypassed

-At the starter relay position I get 12v in the 30 position. The 86 slot gets like 10v for a split second and then drops to between 3-5v when I turn the key to "Start" The 85 position, no volts.

-At the ignition switch, the red power wire has 12v, and the yellow wire repeats the same thing as the starter relay 86 position. I get a split second spike of voltage when I turn the key to start, then it immediately drops to 3-5v

I have 12v going into the igntion switch but not 12v coming out when I turn to start. So I am 99% that it is the ignition switch.
Could there be anything else that it could possibly be, apart from a bad ignition switch?
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:34 PM
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Hey guys,
It was indeed the ignition switch. I have no idea how that goes out just sitting there, but oh well. I replaced it and it bumped right away.
Word to the wise....buy the mopar part 56021346AB. I got the napa echlin version and it really doesnt feel high quality where the lock cylinder interacts with the switch. Its in there correctly. Just not nearly as smooth or as positive clicks. I am going to return it and order the mopar version.

I found this video helpful as well, nevermind the product they are selling

and this as well
https://www.justanswer.com/dodge/798...k-nothing.html

Thanks for the help from you guys as well.
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