Trying to pin point a noise that is coming from the rear of the truck. Noise seems to increase with wheel speed and only happens when accelerating. Does not occur when ideling in drive. Does not seem to occur in reverse. Sounds like a brake dragging but does not go away when stepping on the brake pedal. It only noticable up till maybe 20 or 30mph and then goes away. There is no strange vibrations or anything, everything feels normal, just dont like the noise. I am thinking rear u joint but it looks and feels okay. I am wondering if my e-brake is sticking or out of whack, it does not really work so i am wondering if its releasing properly after its been applied. Only thing that i noticed loose in the rear is the rear shocks, the bushings, are spent and i can grab the shock and slide it back and forth. Thanks for the insight.

 

sounds like a U-joint, sometimes they'll squeak and not have play... is it greasable? if so grease it, see what happens... if it's not try some lithium grease in the spray can... those sounds are the worst! dam gremlins.

 

Thanks, i checked but no luck on being greasable. I might try the lithium grease see if that cures it temporarily. The noise is pretty loud i can hear it in the cab with the widows up and over the sound of the motor and exhaust.

 

even some wd40 may hide the squeak long enough to isolate it. maybe the carrier bearing? i had some leaf spring bushing get loud in my Jeep years ago. try the bushings and shackle pivot, too.

 

if it' that loud I would just replace them,the squeek usually means the neeldle bearings are shot,the next sound is the driveshaft hitting the ground

 

yeah its deff loud enough to catch your attention, but goes away once the speed is up. Yeah, i just want to make sure its the culprit before i replace it. My 1st gen is doing it bad right now, same sound but alot louder and longer. The U joint is smoked, i can twist the drive shaft and watch the u joint almost pop out of place.

 

Bet ya' a bag of donuts that it's a u-joint....seems like anymore that they get tight before they get loose. Pull the d-shaft and find the tight one,(or just replace both). Greaseable u-joints will last longer than non-greaseable ones if you grease them at every oil change....otherwise the non-greaseable ones will out last the greaseable ones....your choice

Travis

 

that is pretty loud sound to be heard over everything. I know when my rear most u-joint was going I felt it on my but in the seat and around 2k rpms I didnt fix it and it ended up costing me a new yoke. if its a u-joint cheaper to check now than later. also if you trust this I have jacked up the rear of the truck blocked front wheels and put safety blocks under as well. if you do this and have someone increase the wheel speed. you can possible determine where it is coming from. not saying to crawl under the truck. but if you have a long exension piece of hose or tubing use it as a s-scope. just a idea.

 

Don't go to the dealer for u-joints. $100 and they're the non-greasable joints. Go to Napa, or who ever, and you can get greasable ones for around $40.

 

Thanks for the info. The squeak seems to have gone away, however i am getting vibrations in the drive line it seems like when cruising down the highway or cruisng around 45mph with the overdrive off. Truck seems to shake alot when taking of from a stop sign or red light. Enough shaking to make make cup holder rattle like crazy. I still think its u joints.

 

A friend of mine once said "why change it in the comfort of the garage at your convenience when you can do it laying by the side of the road in the rain."

 

U Joint. Check for a rust colored dusting around the caps. The greasable ones aren't exactly the best option. The hole running thru them is a weakness and the non greasable ones have a better seal and last a long time. I went with the non-greasers because the shops said they are stronger and last longer.

Follow Busboys words of wisdom, there. It has stung me more than once.
My complete driveline rebuild cost me $150 for all three pressed in, I just r/r'd the assembly and took er in.

Kurt

 

Going to replace the rear drive shaft U joints today, hopefully this solves my problem. Sucks though Napa only had greasable U joints which is what i got, Dealership wanted to much for factory u joints. I will report back wheather or not this solved the problem. Thanks

 

typically the rear goes first, but when you have the shaft off, move the joints thru its range of motion, if it binds or sticks replace it, or any signs of rust near the cups indicate a failed joint EVEN if you dont feel any play!

a shudder on take off can be caused by a bad hanger bearing, but elimate the u-joints first

 

I think you will be ok with the NAPA parts, however my NAPA guy said to get the spicers since they are matched to the application. Spicer trunions/spicer u-joints etc.

Kurt