Replaced the filter now it doesn't run
 

Ok, so last night, I decided to see if my problem with hesitation over 2200 rpm was the filter and to start the installation of the fuel pressure gauge, in case it wasn't.

So I started by mounting the gauge in the truck, Done.
Ran the wires into the engine bay, Done.
Determine where to install the electronic sensor, Stuck.[list=a]On the back of the fuel filter mount there is a fitting, sort of looks like a schraeder(sp) valve, it has a small stainless cap on it,
Do I remove this valve and install the fuel sensor there
Or is there another place for the sensor[/list=a]
Decided I would replace the filter then, so I drained the Fuel filter housing
Removed the top cap, pulled out the fuel filter
Placed the new fuel filter in and put the cap back on
Turned on the key and I can't here the lift pump work
Someone mentioned a bump to the starter to trigger the pump
Tried that, but the darn truck started, shut it off, tried again and again no lift pump sound and the fuel filter housing won't prime.

Help, please

dunno much about your problem, but i saw your truck in your sig. i would rather have a 12ft, but couldnt find one when i bought mine. good luck on your trobles. im sure somebody on here knows how to fix it. :)

Sounds like you may have been running with a dead lp, try to manually start the pump from the leads with the battery (use a inline fuse) to verify the pump is bad and not a bad wiring harness or relay etc. This is exactly why fuel pressure gauges are a must, hopefully it wasn't like that long as the Injection pump may have some future problems as well.

You should be able to hear the LP whether it's working or not. My LP was a lot quieter after I replaced it. Check the connections. I've had to turn the truck over for 10 or so seconds after priming to get it to fire.
Plug the sensor on the schrader that is on the Injector pump and tell us what it says when you bump it.

You may have lost the prime to the injectors. Try removing the lines at injectors 1 and 3 to be sure you have a good flow to them when bumping the starter.

I beleive crobtex is correct. I have had this happen before also. Except what I did was loosen the top of the filter housing and bumped the starter. Ran to the motor and screwed the lid down. Truck fired up.

I would not really advise this method by yourself because it gets a little messy. 2 people should do the trick

Ok tried the loose FF lid, and bumped the starter, nothing happened at all, I will go under the truck tonight and try to trigger it manually, if not I guess I am off to the store for a new LP.

Put a pump on it, it's probably bad anyway. You should never try to prime it after a filter change like the book says by "bumping" the starter, takes forever if the housing is empty. IF you are going to drain the filter housing (always a good idea) you should re-fill it with fuel before you put the cap on, I tried it and it fires right up!!!

Tom

I've done it both ways. Only once did I have have to crack the injectors after bumping the starter a couple of times. If the LP is working, it doesn't take long to refill the filter cannister.

If there's no loose wires or shorts, I agree with changing the pump anyway.

I have tried the "loosen the filter cap method" for priming and my lift pump had so much pressure that it blew the o-ring out the side and I destroyed it trying to quickly tighten the filter cap back down while the lift pump was spraying a lot of fuel all over my engine. i didn't have it very loose either because I thought that might happen.

[laugh] [laugh] [laugh]
A Kodak moment......and no camera.

Thanks for all the input, I will post the results once I have the LP replaced tonight or tomorrow. Luckily it is a second vehicle that isn't required every day for getting back and forth to work.

As an alternative method of bleeding, you should be able to loosen the banjo bolt at the injection pump on the line coming from the filter. Place a can or something similar under the IP to catch any fuel that comes out.

Another option, if you have an assistant, is to use the Schrader valve at the IP. You might even be able to do this by yourself since the LP runs for 25 seconds after bumping the starter.

I recently changed my fuel filter and completely emptied the filter cannister. I couldn't get any fuel afterward. It turns out that my LP was dead. I could hear it running but it pushed no fuel into the filter cannister. Fortunately, this was about a month before the warranty expired so it was replaced at no charge.

I now have a fuel pressure gauge installed.

Sorry.
It was probably me that suggested that method.

You have to have it loose enough that the o-ring hasn't contacted yet, or the o-ring will blow out.
It's also a good idea to have a really long extension so you can spin the wrench to get the lid closed fast enough to prevent a Diesel shower.


phox

It wasn't at anyone's suggestion. Just my own voices and I haven't named them. As always, it seemed like the thing to do at the time!

Oh, and I live a Kodak moment. There's a thread over on TDR called, Things not to do in your garage, it hits a little too close to home.