overheated brake pads
overheated brake pads
Brakes on my truck have been squeaking lately and I figured they needed greased. Today I've decided to check them out and good thing I did. This is what I've found. Im not sure how this has happened, brake pads looked good last time I looked at them (in the spring) Ive changed brake fluid and added speed bleeders.
Both pads completely disintegrated and came off backing material. I wonder if these are cheap pads. Drivers side pads were in good shape. I still replaced them on both corners with AutoZone duralast gold pads, hopefully they will last better than these did.


Both pads completely disintegrated and came off backing material. I wonder if these are cheap pads. Drivers side pads were in good shape. I still replaced them on both corners with AutoZone duralast gold pads, hopefully they will last better than these did.


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I cant say for sure what caused that, but I can say that if you live where road salt or calcium chloride is used then corrosion can lead to sticky calipers. Maybe thats what happened to yours since only one pad is toast which usually means that the caliper stuck and didn't slide back. The inside pad moves without the whole caliper moving. If the pad actually got hot then that side of the rotor would look overheated too.
Also, you mentioned greasing the brakes. I never grease the brakes but rather do what I can to keep them clean because grease attracts dirt which causes sticking calipers.
Also, you mentioned greasing the brakes. I never grease the brakes but rather do what I can to keep them clean because grease attracts dirt which causes sticking calipers.
Have seen lots like that on these rear disc-equipped trucks and I've always attributed it to overheating. The front wheels kick up so much grit and gravel that damages the rubber slide boots on the rear calipers, then the slides seize up like Katoom mentioned, and cook the pads. Every time I look at rear brakes on these trucks, the slides are seized. The slide bores in the caliper will be full of rust, which greatly expands when it gets warm and prevents the slide from moving (even if it moves freely when it's cold). I've found that the most important thing you can do on a brake job is to remove the rubber slide boots and hone all the rust out of the bore, right down to bare shiny metal. Now put some protectant on the bare metal and install new slides and boots.
Hi torquefan - can you elaborate a bit on "Now put some protectant on the bare metal and install new slides and boots."
What kind of protectant do you recommend, brand type, brand name or whatever?
Thanks
Mike
What kind of protectant do you recommend, brand type, brand name or whatever?
Thanks
Mike
Bingo!!!!! I work for a county in Colorado, we have a Dodge 5500 little dump and a salt sand spreader, we use salt sand mix and the state uses mah chloride on their roads. The factory pads do this as well, both inside & outside pads desintrigated, even the replacement Mopar pads do it.
I hear its cause factory uses cheap phenolic pistons in the calipers that they bind. I might rebuild factory caliper and install new brake line on that side just to make sure its not swelled up on inside.






