I posted this problem recently and received some very helpful tips but I want to clarify my problem and ask one more time because my problem still exists.

2001 3/4 ton Ext.Cab 2500 , 5.9 turbo. When the truck shifts into overdrive and if I don't power on through the shift it starts acting as if it doesn't know exactly what to do. No slippage but I can feel and hear it. The tach jumps up and down about 300 rpm like you are slowing gunning the engine. If I exit onto an uphill ramp and slow to 50mph and lug it, it really does it. If I gas it and it shifts to 3rd it's ok. I have been using the overdrive cutoff on slower speeds but noticed recently that it will do it even then, but not as much. I know this is sketch info but it's the only way I know to explain it. I want to take it to a tranny shop but I can't always re create the problem. Cold days seems worse. Any advice ?
Thanks in advance.

 

Possibly torque converter. A friend of mine owns a tranny shop and said the cummins will actually bend the housing where the nuts are welded on to the converter. Or could just be a sensor reading goofy. Either way, I'd get it checked before it takes the rest of the tranny with it. A good shop should be able to hook it up to a computer while its going down the road and check all kinds of readings from the trans.

 

I had similar issues but not as severe. A good mech can check codes on the sensors or go to the FAQ sticky in 2nd gen forum and check the codes your self. My problem was the APPS which replaced in 1 hour. I advise you go to dodge for the APPS as the typical auto parts houses sell a unit that works but the cover won't.

 

I had similar problems with my 2001 3/4 ton and it turned out it was the APPS but I didn't feel like shelling out $500 for one. I found out a 2000 to 2001 Blue Bird School bus powered by a Cummins has a foot pedal APPS that bolts right up in the stock location. Mine has been running now for 5 months with no issues and it only cost me $50 at a junkyard. The only thing you have to do pair up wiring as the colour coding is different. I Emailed the company and they sent me the wiring diagram.

 

I took it to a tranny shop. I had already checked codes and there were none. The mechanic said I had a weak third gear and that the "lock out" was not working properly. $ 2000.00 >>>> Am I getting get info ?

 

If they are rebuilding tranny and new converter, that sounds reasonable.
I don't mean they can just check codes. They should be able to drive it and look at what the sensors are reading, line pressure, whats kicking in and when.
I'm pulling my trans this weekend because it finally gave up after 300k mi. I have first gear only if i manually drop it into first. Otherwise its in 3rd all the time, no od, no 2nd, no matter what. It showed no codes, but when he hooked it up and drove it sensors were saying it already had made enough line pressure to shift into 3rd sitting still at idle. Just saying that a good shop or mechanic can do more than just read codes if they have the tools and know how.
Where are you located? The shop i take mine too has always given me excellent service and will take the time to drive, look, and diagnose before anything else is considered. Its in NE IN.

 

Dallas,Tx. The guy was referred and seems to know what he's talking about. He even told me he would just keep driving it for a while if it was his.

 

FIRST...I would ck all battery connections and then clean evey ground you can find under the hood. Under the driver batt, pass fender and pass fire wall. Then wrap the (+) wire from the alt. After this is done then reset the apps. All this is found from here. Good luck.

 

My truck did the same thing.. I converted the truck to a Leece Neville alternator and It still did it. Wrapped the ground wire in aluminum foil.. still did it. Cleaned all the grounds worked for a while then back at it again. I did rig up a quick ground wire to run from the tranny pan bolt to the body.. Fixed it ..

 

Vman, you are dealing with exactly the same symptoms I was last spring and summer. I cleaned all the grounds and the problems went away for about 20 hrs. When it came back, I cleaned them all again and added a light coat of dielectric grease. symptoms came back again quite quickly. I got lucky after that, I installed a noise isolator I got from Geno's Garage and my problems have never come back. If that doesn't solve your problem, then the link below will take you to what is supposed to be a final solution for this problem - T/C locking and unlocking under gentle acceleration or light load. Like you, if I was heavy on the accelerator, I could power through the problem.

http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?...9%2520v1.0.pdf

 

Thanks for the info. What apps am I resetting ?

 

Thanks I will purchase a noise isolator. Much trouble to install ?

 

From the info I am receiving it sounds like I might be getting ripped off having my trans rebuilt. Thanks for all the info, I will try it before jumping into the rebuild.

 

Sounds like standard lock up problem many have had, there is a hundred fixes some worki somtimes some may work forever. 10 years and 400000 miles and I out a navone RF noisle limiter on the APPS wire to the computer and fixed it permantly. Try the one from Navone or BD , they are only about 20 bucks and an hour to put on your self, but it sounds you need some help from another owner or mech.

 

Have you EVER heard of someone going to a transmission shop and the shop telling them' "Good news, Nothing wrong with your transmission at all"? No? Didn't think so. Neither have I.

Rick