mopar440cu

This is baffling to me maybe one of you can shed some light. I have a 2001 3500 24v Cummins that I just replaced the IP pump on and now the darn thing will not start. I did everything right installing it and bleeding wise to get it to start. For example, I cracked #1 & #2 injector lines at the block while priming, but really only got a dribble of fuel coming out. I even tried giving it a shot of starting fluid with the two lines open to get the air out and still just a dribble of fuel. So I double checked that there is good fuel to the IP pump by cracking the elbow and it flows great. I am stumped. I have another 2001 3500 and we have replaced IP's before in the past and never ran into this problem. It was always simple with maybe a sniff of starting fluid to get it to run. (I use a shot of that because I dont have the heater grids no longer.) I am at wits end with this thing,any suggestions? Thanks!

If I had to guess it is like the all the IP's are not switching from low volume to high volume to pop the injectors, but all 3?? When I say dribble I mean when I crack the lines the fuel coming out is minimal. It should shoot out a lot harder. Anyhow does this make sense or am I chasing my tail?

I have done the following to eliminate a few possibilities.
-have 3/4 tank of fuel
-replaced the IP pump 3 times
-replaced the airdog 165
-changed fuel filters
-checked fuel pressure to the IP and its 18 PSI according to the gauge.
-replaced the ecu
-replaced the pcm
-changed and made sure the batteries are at or over 12v.
-tried spraying a sniff of starting fluid, no go.
-checked the connection to the IP pump, its good
-battery terminals new and cleaned
-Key way on the IP install was in the right place.
-only codes that came up was: P00122 throttle position sensor low circuit
P00237 turbo charger boost sensor A circuit low

-

pind

Check the wiring to the cam sensor, its right under the ip. It needs the timing signal to work properly.

Also, lose the tst/smarty stack, until you make it run.

AlpineRAM

I'd suggest to hot wire the IP, the truck should idle.

Instructions can be found at https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html , a good way down.
(search for #3 on the page)

HTH

mopar440cu

I replaced the cam sensor, forgot to mention that one. I will recheck the wire going to it today. As for the the stack, they have been taken out of the equation, they are out of service. lol Thanks for the suggestions.

mopar440cu

Very good write up, thanks!

Ok, I checked everything in his write up and what is the only problem I see is on the #7 pin, the hot wire, going to the IP is getting 12.54v on the keyed run position, but when switched to the start mode it drops to 10.5v. I think the IP needs a full 12v to work correct?? I know the batteries are good I checked them and they are above 12.65v.
Could a starter that drgs when engaged cause this? Mine is dragging.

pind

Yes, a starter that drags can cause this issue..

Dieselbuilder

could be a bad pump

AlpineRAM

Easiest thing to do - take a lawnmower battery or the like, connect it to vp44 as stated, turn engine over at at least 150 rpm.
Pump squirts fuel, engine fires- Pump basically OK, something else blocking you.
No squirt, no running- pump dead as a doornail.

10 minutes tops.

mopar440cu

It cant be I already swapped this one to one of my other 2001 3500's and it fired right up.

BigIron70

Did you try replacing injection pump relay? Load test power and ground at injection pump using a headlight bulb. Should be as bright as direct connection to battery.

nothingbutdarts

Yank out the 5.9 and put an elephant in there!!!

mopar440cu

That or a Duramax! Lol