No start after IP install, Baffling me ???
This is baffling to me maybe one of you can shed some light. I have a 2001 3500 24v Cummins that I just replaced the IP pump on and now the darn thing will not start. I did everything right installing it and bleeding wise to get it to start. For example, I cracked #1 & #2 injector lines at the block while priming, but really only got a dribble of fuel coming out. I even tried giving it a shot of starting fluid with the two lines open to get the air out and still just a dribble of fuel. So I double checked that there is good fuel to the IP pump by cracking the elbow and it flows great. I am stumped. I have another 2001 3500 and we have replaced IP's before in the past and never ran into this problem. It was always simple with maybe a sniff of starting fluid to get it to run. (I use a shot of that because I dont have the heater grids no longer.) I am at wits end with this thing,[verymad]any suggestions? Thanks!
If I had to guess it is like the all the IP's are not switching from low volume to high volume to pop the injectors, but all 3?? When I say dribble I mean when I crack the lines the fuel coming out is minimal. It should shoot out a lot harder. Anyhow does this make sense or am I chasing my tail?[dummy][coffee] I have done the following to eliminate a few possibilities. -have 3/4 tank of fuel -replaced the IP pump 3 times -replaced the airdog 165 -changed fuel filters -checked fuel pressure to the IP and its 18 PSI according to the gauge. -replaced the ecu -replaced the pcm -changed and made sure the batteries are at or over 12v. -tried spraying a sniff of starting fluid, no go. -checked the connection to the IP pump, its good -battery terminals new and cleaned -Key way on the IP install was in the right place. -only codes that came up was: P00122 throttle position sensor low circuit P00237 turbo charger boost sensor A circuit low - |
Check the wiring to the cam sensor, its right under the ip. It needs the timing signal to work properly.
Also, lose the tst/smarty stack, until you make it run. |
I'd suggest to hot wire the IP, the truck should idle.
Instructions can be found at https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html , a good way down. (search for #3 on the page) HTH |
Originally Posted by pind
(Post 3331297)
Check the wiring to the cam sensor, its right under the ip. It needs the timing signal to work properly.
Also, lose the tst/smarty stack, until you make it run. |
Originally Posted by AlpineRAM
(Post 3331302)
I'd suggest to hot wire the IP, the truck should idle.
Instructions can be found at https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html , a good way down. (search for #3 on the page) HTH Ok, I checked everything in his write up and what is the only problem I see is on the #7 pin, the hot wire, going to the IP is getting 12.54v on the keyed run position, but when switched to the start mode it drops to 10.5v. I think the IP needs a full 12v to work correct?? I know the batteries are good I checked them and they are above 12.65v. Could a starter that drgs when engaged cause this? Mine is dragging.[verymad]:( |
Yes, a starter that drags can cause this issue..
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could be a bad pump
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Easiest thing to do - take a lawnmower battery or the like, connect it to vp44 as stated, turn engine over at at least 150 rpm.
Pump squirts fuel, engine fires- Pump basically OK, something else blocking you. No squirt, no running- pump dead as a doornail. 10 minutes tops. |
Originally Posted by Dieselbuilder
(Post 3331341)
could be a bad pump
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Did you try replacing injection pump relay? Load test power and ground at injection pump using a headlight bulb. Should be as bright as direct connection to battery.
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Yank out the 5.9 and put an elephant in there!!!
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Originally Posted by nothingbutdarts
(Post 3331441)
Yank out the 5.9 and put an elephant in there!!!
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