My 01 has progressed to no start, no fuel at the injectors. See my "strange behavior" thread. Almost didn't start this morning, now it won't start at all. There is fuel to the injection pump, but nothing coming out.

 

Crack all the fuel lines you can reach at the head, and whirl it over, let me know if there is fuel present at any of the lines.

 

May be a dead crank sensor. If it doesn't see the crank turning, it's not going to sequence fuel.

 

That was the first thing I did, nothing. Then the airport locked me out for the evening. When I can get back in I'll drag it out of the secure area so I can work on it.

That will be my first thing to do when I can get parts. If that doesn't fix it, then I'll be looking to replace the VP.

 

Cougar, don't know if you know this, but you can verify it is the VP by doing the following test, it removes any other signals, etc. from the run.

From Blue Chips site.

"NO START TEST #3
HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START

It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!

Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case."

 

this is the tool that I use, it works great to test injection pump. patdaly suggestion works also. No hi lo option if you just power the injection pump, will just default to lo idle.

Miller Tools 3163834 Cummins Diesel Fuel Pump Diagnostic Tester | eBay

 

Had more distractions thrown in my way, so it is going to be a while before I can do anything time consuming. Once I get it out on derelict row, I'll see if it has any codes.

 

Got the truck out of the airport secure area and in the parking lot. Still No start and no codes. The no codes part is really bothering me. Hard to guess were to go. You would think there would be something.

 

Okay, started pulling connectors and such cleaned and reassembled. Hot wired the pump and still nothing. After hooking it all back up I got 2 codes: p1693 and 1689.

 

1689 is pretty much death......

 

replacement of vp44 is needed!

 

Truck goes in the shop today. Not my 1st choice, but my only choice given my current circumstances.

 

Hey Cougar, where are you going to source your VP44 from? Just curious.

Cheers and best of success with your repair!

Mike

 

The shop that is doing the install won't let me supply my own parts, but he is getting the pump from Oregon Fuel Injection. He is charging me the same price they would have less shipping. Diesel Power Products was $300 less.

 

It lives. Only driven it back to work from the shop so far, may drive it home tonight. First thing I noticed was my fuel pressure at idle. Slightly higher at 16-17psi and rock stable. Before it quit it would slowly roll between 14 and 19.