Has anyone used the Moog adjustable ball joint? The tire shop that checked/aligned my truck said that camber adjustment would help the drift I get on the highway. Thoughts?

 

Is your truck out of spec? I belive they only help with camber not caster, but I could be wrong.

 

I don't know if my truck is out of spec. Adjustment is a double edged sword. It would give more flexibility, but it is also one more thing to break. I am not sure if I needed the additional adjustment .... I was hoping to get some feedback if others had needed it.

 

look at the spec sheet from thier alignment machine, it will give you the factory specs (range) and also what yours are, if they fall in range I would pass on the moog it might help. I would first measure the circumfernce of each tire (corret air pressure first) and put the largest on the right front.

If they didnt give you a sheet, go and request one! Its pretty simple to read, or post the results, also ask if the moog will adjust caster, like I said before I think it only helps with camber, they can lean the right front in and it "may" help but you will have poor tire wear.

 

You might want to consider another shop......assuming the camber is in spec (it usually is - only a smoked ball joint or a bent housing will throw it out of spec), there is no reason to attempt to adjust it as it is typically considered a non adjustable item on solid axle 4WD trucks. FWIW, it isn't the ball joint itself that is adjustable but rather a replacement ball joint sleeve that sits in the knuckle carrier that has an offset bore. These sleeves are usually used to correct another problem (read bent housing or knuckle carrier) that is the result of a crash or accident. Bottom line: If it is in spec, leave it alone.

The reason I would suggest another shop is because the tech clearly isn't aware of what he is talking about. Caster is the typical adjustment that affects wander and the rate of "return to center" feel in the steering wheel. Dodge CTD's have very little positive caster in the factory specs......mostly to ease the strain on the ball joints as the result of a very heavy front end. Many people (including me) have experimented with a bit more positive caster with excellent results. I have +2* over the factory spec and can say for sure that the truck tracks straighter and is less prone to wander. Does it shorten ball joint life? I suppose it is technically possible but it is a somewhat small change that I have yet to experience any ill effects from and, IMO, the payback is worth it.

 

CTD NUT.....you hit it right on the head.

I will say though, that the factory specs are pretty broad, so just because it is within the factory spec doesn't mean it will drive right.

The alignment cam that CTD speaks of is used to compensate for bent housings/tubes, etc., but it is also the correct way to obtain cross caster. Cross caster will help with that drift you're experiencing. It's an eccentric cam so it can be used to adjust caster/camber at the same time.

My alignment shop wanted $60/side for mine.

 

Thanks for the good feedback. I had my ball joints double checked today from another shop. They indicated that the joints were all good with no perceptable play (don't think they used a indicator). They thought my tire wear was caused from worn shocks. The shocks look like the originals, painted flat black with no label I can find, and if so have 130,xxx on them. The truck hasn't "porpoised" or felt soft in corners, but it is probably time for new shocks anyway.

 

I just replaced my stock front shocks at 132,XXX with some Bilstein 5100s and I must say it helped the ride noticably and was deffinently woth the money. I need some for the rear now.

Oh and I have ADJ. ball joints and I just had the alignment and rotation done the other day and it took them 8 hours. My right front was WAY off and it only cost me $75.