vrj

First off, please note that I have studied DTR & TDR and ran multiple searches when trying to diagnose problems with my truck.

I guess when it rains it pours .... I've had multiple leaks in the last 60 days and thought I fixed them all:

* Leaking Fuel Drain Valve (Installed new Drain Valve on Fuel Filter)
* Leaking Turbo Oil High Pressure Line (Re-Tightened Line)
* Leaking Fuel Line from my FASS (Re-Tightened Line)
* Leaking Turbo Drain Tube at flange (Installed new gasket)
* Leaking Turbo Oil Seals (Replaced with new Turbo since I could not afford the downtime of sending my HTT back for repairs)
* Leaking Vacuum/P.Steering Pump (Replaced both pumps)
* Leaking Tappet Cover Gasket (Replaced with Cummins Gasket)

After fixing the tappet cover yesterday evening and re-installing the ECM, Fuel Filter canister, APPS, and VP44 Injection Pump & lines, I blead the air out of the lines and started the truck and had it idle for 20 minutes while I was checking for leaks. NO LEAKS !!!

I took the truck for a test drive on the street for approx. 15min., driving moderately and pulled over twice monitoring for leaks. NO LEAKS !!!

I then deciced to take a test drive on the freeway for approx. 20 min. and monitored boost up to 15psi's. I then got off the freeway and headed back home on the street and noticed my oil pressure was around 30psi's and immediatly pulled over, got out and looked under my truck and could not belive what I saw which was a HUGE puddle of oil and the whole under-carriage of my truck from front to back and the tailgate was saturated with oil. I was beyond shocked !!!

Since it was now dark outside, I had to use my flashlight to see where it was leaking. I even checked the Turbo Oil drain hose where it attaches to the nipple on the block.

I put in 8 qts. of oil and limped her home. This morning I started the truck and let idle for 1 min. and did not see any leaks. Go Figure !!!

The only thing I can think of is after my research this morning, since my Vacuum Pump hose broke near the firewall when working on the Tappet Cover R&R, maybe this is causing excessive Crankcase Pressure pushing oil out somewhere when the truck is on load driving at higher speeds.

I can't tell you how frustrated I am... I had planned on cleaning up the truck today and enjoying the Super Bowl this afternoon knowing that the truck is fixed and saved $$$ from not having to pay the Dodge Dealership around $115/hr to work on my truck.

I'm heading out to the auto parts store to replace the dry-rotted vacumm line/hose and then jet wash the under-carriage of the truck to see if I can see any leaks.

I don't mean to take anyone away from the Superbowl today but any advice or help would be grealy appreciated!!!

rickf

Is your crankcase breather open, not plugged or frozen shut?

vrj

My crankcase breather is open. Weather here is approx. 75 deg. I did start it up again and let it run for a while and looks like its leaking from the Tappet Cover again, behind the VP44.

I plan on pulling the Tappet Cover again tomorrow and fix or replace the gasket.

mrclean

Yes, this ^.

lovinCTD59

I see you have a late 01, there's also a cam sensor on the back of the front timing case just below the vp44 check that too..

Ya didn't happen to crack or wound the oil pressure sensor workin on tap cover?

Where did you get the Tappet cover gasket? Cummins or chain auto part store?

vrj

I fixed the Vacuum line going to the Vacuum Pump today.

I replaced the Cam Sensor during my first pass two days ago when I pulled the VP44 to fix the Tappet Cover gasket. The allen wrench bolt is tight and has it snug in place.

I purchased my Tappet Cover gasket from Cummins (3284623) and bolt grommets (3928759) from them also.

I found the leak... It was the tappet cover gasket. I guess, somehow part of the gasket must have come partially dislodged from the Tappet cover edge which was behind the VP44 during the re-install and while driving it, that part of the gasket must have came off the cover. About a 2 inch section of the gasket was pushed down away from the cover edge which would explain the massive loss of oil.

This time I used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker when putting the rubber gasket on the Tappet Cover. I'm letting it dry and fully cure overnight. It took me approx. 6hrs from start to finish to fix. I started it and let run for approx. 2 min. I'll test drive it tomorrow and re-check for leaks.

I took pictures with my iPhone and will post them once I figure out how to embed pictures on this thread.

vrj

Attaching Picture of Tappet Cover & Gasket

Humblecowboy

OUCH! How many times have you kicked yourself? I hate when $heet happens like that. That vp44 is enough of a pain I'm sure.

rickf

Rubber gaskets should never have any type of sealer added to them or you will experience exactly what you did. It will lubricate the gasket and it will squirt right out. They should be installed clean and dry. If anything is used at all it should be Hi-Tack to hold it in place and use according to directions.

Mark Nixon

Not being a wet blanket, but if the engine has excessive ring leakage (Blowby), it'll take out already aged gaskets of all types.
Oil wet gaskets are especially prone to this.
Also, in the case of replacing leaking gaskets, the softer (newer) the gasket, the better the chance it'll push out of place under crankcase pressure.

Mark.

vrj

I initially used Hi-Tack Permatex to hold it in place... The result is what you see in my picture !!!

Well, I've got SEALER now !!! Got "The Right Stuff" from Permatex on it now !!! 100 miles and NO Leaks !!! Should have used it in the beginning. I've always have success with this stuff.

People on this site have advised that No Sealer/Glue is needed while others have said just the opposite. I researched this issue in great detail. Sounds like people have had success both ways. Thanks for your comment.

vrj

I did it twice in 3 days... Getting pretty good at pulling the VP44. The first time I did it, the process took me about 10-11 hrs. which includes taking my time, taking pictures and updating my notes. The second time took me 6hrs. Bleeding the injector lines takes approx. 15min.

I wrote a complete instruction & tool list prior to the first install and updated it during the install so as not to forgot stuff later. Also, the sooner I start, the sooner I'll be finish !!! Also, cheaper for me to do it than to have the dealer do it.

I had the VP44 out-of-the truck in 1hr. on my 2nd pass. Having the right instructions & tools REALLY HELPS. The below really helped me:

* 19mm or 3/4" wrenches (Regular, Stubby, & Flare) for Injector Lines
* Red Finger Nail Polish to mark the Key, & shaft tip for easy re-install
* Fully removing only VP44 lines 1, 2, & 4
* Replace the Cam Positioning Sensor when doing the VP44

Hope this helps someone else !

rickf

The trick with high tack is to let it dry before applying the gasket, hence the reference to reading the directions. Yes, I have seen Hi-tack do exactly what you had by not letting it dry first. I can assure you that when dry it will NOT slide.

vrj

Interesting comment and implication. I don't mind suggestions and tips but find it very immature, rude and childish with comments implying I did not read or follow instructions.

Going forward, I think I will keep my experiences to myself to avoid this type of contact.

Mark Nixon

Are you seriously angry because someone's trying to HELP you?

Hi Tack does sometimes require HOURS to set up, depending on temp and humidity, as well as how heavily it is distributed.

Check your engine for heavy blow by, while you're calming down.

Mark.