Thanks to all for the info, as a poor man I will resort to the lock and stitch welding on the 2" crack in the block.

I am down here in Brownsville, Texas, close to alot of ships and shipyards. There are a couple of them who say they do cast iron welding. Is there some sort of credentials that tells me they have done lock and stitch welding? I have read in the previous posts where some procedures need to be done, but what should I ask the welder, based on your experiences, that might give me an idea that this individual does know what he is doing.

Are there any recommended welders in the area here? San Antonio, Houston, Corpus Christi or Laredo area? Approximately how much will it cost? How long will the truck be down for?

As always. thanks for your advice and this is a very cool site to belong to.

Carlos

 

The welder should be using ni rod. They can only weld a small amount at a time the weld area has to stay cool so you need to weld a bit and then cool it with a air line so that you can touch it. After each pass you will cool and then pean the weld a air chisle is the best way to pean the weld.If the weld is not cooled enough or peaned it will crack beside the weld within a about a half hour of welding as it cools

 

I dont think any kind of welding on cast iron is safe unless you took the whole block out to pre-heat it and cool it down afterwards. That stuff is very hard it will crack nearby due to thermal stresses. That lock and stitch stuff looks like a great idea but youd be looking for a machine shop thats comfortable with automotive stuff. They should be able to help you out. Doesnt look like youd need experience with the product beforehand, its just drilling thru a jig and along the crack, then inserting screws. The kit might cost a bit though.
When I got cam gears machined for a bike I asked a bike dealer where they went for machine work. Might hold true for auto work.

 

Since the lock&stitch process involves drilling holes and inserting pins, does the cooling and peaning process still apply?

 

Ya got some reading to do!! There is a lot of info and pics here on how to repair the block properly.

http://www.locknstitch.com/cummins_5_9_block.htm

The lock and stitch method has nothing to do with welding....

I would seriously consider not welding the block.....I have not heard of a single successful 53 repair that was welded.

 

don't waste your time & on lock& stitch
it does not work very good on the cummins 53 block as the crack area is too thin... the only fix is replacement. there is some threads on TDR the subject

 

What is the definition of too thin? I lock and stitched my 53 and it works fine. You must use the correct pins for the repair. Different repairs and different thickness materials will use different pins. Lock n' Stitch will ensure you use the right ones. Also, the repair is a waste if you don't use the block re-enforcing bracket kit.

 

If you are going to weld cast you do not preheat it it has to stay as cool as possible.

I agree with not welding the block, but if that is all that can be done then it is the last resort.

The only proper way to fix a cracked block is to ty it to a chain that is hooked to a boat.

 

Good post CTD Nut,

Been there and done it all in terms of research on this. Like CTD, I don't have much faith in welding. Too many things to go wrong and yes, there are a few that have done it with success.

Had I not negotiated a block replacement with Cummins, I would have definately went with Lok n stitch. Had the kit bought and in the shop, that's how close it was.

PM me if you want to hear more CPO.

Good luck

 

I know this thread is a little old, but wanted to add my 2 cents.

I AGREE with CTD nut, I locknstitched my 53 and ran it without a bracket and the crack started weeping in a couple spots. It would pressure test fine, and then when I put a couple hundred miles on, it would begin seeping. I put stitching pins in the leaks and then installed the block re-inforcing bracket. No issues so far. I beleive the reinforcement bracket is a must. I wouldn't do another repair without the bracket. The bracket is easier to install than the stiching pins. Good directions, good pictures, good tools to complete the repair.

 

Anyone know the price of the reinforcement bracket? I have the '53' block but no cracks that I know of. But if this will help prevent them, I think it will be worth it.

 

From LNS it is just over $500 plus freight when I checked, I bought through a Canadian distributor in the mid $600 CDN range delivered.

 

Holy crap, batman, $500.00 for that piece of metal------man I'm in the wrong business!!!

 

Yeah that seems very high. But I guess if it will save the block it is worth it. How many people actually have this installed?

 

I also considered the lock and stitch on my 53 block. I saw the picture of the reinforced strap the guy recomended and that made me negotiate the block replacment with Cummins. The guy knows how much we like our trucks and figures we will pay anything to get them back right. When he told me that $10 bracket cost $500 I knew for sure I was not going that route. there are no garantees with the lock and stitch even with that overly priced bracket. So I opted for a new block.