24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Last shot before I get ride of it.

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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 02:18 PM
  #1  
flimmy's Avatar
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Last shot before I get rid of it.

I have an 00 auto with a problem I can figure out. The truck wants to pull when in gear, it acts like you have your foot on the accelerator pedal. If its on gravel the tires will spin. If its on asphalt it will stall the motor.

I thought it was the trans, maybe the converter not unlocking. So I took it to a trans shop they hooked up a snap-on scan tool and said everything was good and it didnt have any codes. They thought it was the solenoids. So i had them replaced and its still the same. btw the trans does shift fine

So I took it to the dealer they said there was a fueling code and I was told it was the ECM. Something in the ECM and the fueling program in it. I found one on here for the same yr and trans. I bought it and replaced it. That didnt fix the problem either. I'm glad I didnt spend the $800 at the dealer for them to replace the ECM

Idles at 850-900

it will stall when going from Park or Neutral to Drive or Rev. with your foot on the brake. But won't stall if you just come to a stop when driving. But it will try to pull and start blowing smoke. The egt's will climb to 900 also.

No dead pedal either.

Has anyone had the same problem ?

If I can't figure the problem out soon I may just sell it and be done with it.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:14 PM
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From: Milton Wa
Sounds like the converter is staying partially engaged. It is probably a mechanical issue so you won't get any codes or anything like that. Hate to say it but it looks like your in for some transmission work!
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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I have seen a truck with the problem before. On yours, I would think it is an internal torque converter problem if it isn't the lockup solenoid and the wiring has been tested to be sure nothing is powering the lockup solenoid when it shouldn't be.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 05:26 PM
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I do not know whether you have owned it long but the previous owner may have put in the "manual TC lockup" switch that replaces the torque converter relay with jumpers. The relay is in the power distribution center which is the black plastic box on top of drivers side front fender under hood, back of the battery. Look for a relay in the TC position, there is a map under the top cover. If missing then look deeper as we can direct you to the wiring circuit for this modification. There could be a problem where it stays locked like the dash switch is in "locked position". Any chance that this was done by a previous owner?
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Sounds like a TC problem almost certainly to me.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 09:28 PM
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sounds like ur torque converter is messing up.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Sootblower
I do not know whether you have owned it long but the previous owner may have put in the "manual TC lockup" switch that replaces the torque converter relay with jumpers. The relay is in the power distribution center which is the black plastic box on top of drivers side front fender under hood, back of the battery. Look for a relay in the TC position, there is a map under the top cover. If missing then look deeper as we can direct you to the wiring circuit for this modification. There could be a problem where it stays locked like the dash switch is in "locked position". Any chance that this was done by a previous owner?


No manual TC lockup switch that I know of , I've had the truck for about 2 yrs before the problem started. But I'll look into the relay in the PDC
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:10 AM
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The second time I lost fluid from a cooler line, my truck started doing this. TCC would sometimes engage at low speeds, but when I got on the throttle it would slip it. New valve body with shift kit fixed mine.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:14 AM
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I had the same problem. It was the TC. It progressively got worse until the truck wouldn't start because it was locked up.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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That is the problem with a lot of today's mechanics, if the scanner says it is good then they are convinced there is nothing wrong. They do not think about the mechanical issues that could be involved. I also vote for the converter, if the clutch material swelled up then it will drag and give those exact symptoms.

Rick
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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From: Michigan
had the same problem, only mine was all the time if i stopped without the truck in neutral or park it would die, need a new converter and problem was solved
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 03:46 PM
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I think everyone might be right about the converter. Any suggestions on a good converter that won't break the bank ?

I have a camper that goes about 8k that I tow 3-4 times a yr and a skid loader maybe 5 times a yr (15 miles) the rest of the time its just to work or whenever I feel like driving it.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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If you are mechanical you can can change the converter, pretty easily, just an FYI.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 05:58 PM
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Yeah I know I can do it. It's just a matter wanting to do it.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 07:30 PM
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flimmy...did you happen to ask Andy (keystone diesel) about it?
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