I now know the true meaning of pucker factor
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
I now know the true meaning of pucker factor
I was heading to work yesterday morning Oh dark thirty and saw the light going red so I stomped the brakes........DOH! foot to the floor, ABS and brake light comes on. I used the parking brake and put it in neutral to get stopped. Lucky for me I was the only one on the road.
I turned it around and limped home to get a different vehicle. When I got home I popped the hood and saw that the brake reservoir was almost empty..OK I think Maybe it just sucked some air. So I refill it and step on the brake pedal. My wife calls out that I'm leaking something from the middle of my truck.
I guess I split the brake line inside the frame right where the fuel tank is. Almost 50 years of driving whatever I could cobble together with hangers and duct tape and I've NEVER seen a solid brake line go like that. No rust, not a flex line. It just went.
Just joking with my wife I said she almost got my life insurance....She said better luck next time
I turned it around and limped home to get a different vehicle. When I got home I popped the hood and saw that the brake reservoir was almost empty..OK I think Maybe it just sucked some air. So I refill it and step on the brake pedal. My wife calls out that I'm leaking something from the middle of my truck.
I guess I split the brake line inside the frame right where the fuel tank is. Almost 50 years of driving whatever I could cobble together with hangers and duct tape and I've NEVER seen a solid brake line go like that. No rust, not a flex line. It just went.
Just joking with my wife I said she almost got my life insurance....She said better luck next time
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well it was hidden rust. Where the line runs inside the frame right next to the fuel tank.
I get under the thing at least twice a year to chase leaks and rust and never thought to look in there.
Now I have to drain and drop the tank and figure out where to get S/S lines. There is no rust on the frame or body and everything but the tranny and dash board (pieces) looks and runs like new so I figure I should be able to get another 15 or so years out of it...and by then I won't be able to crawl under it to check the lines for rust.
I get under the thing at least twice a year to chase leaks and rust and never thought to look in there.
Now I have to drain and drop the tank and figure out where to get S/S lines. There is no rust on the frame or body and everything but the tranny and dash board (pieces) looks and runs like new so I figure I should be able to get another 15 or so years out of it...and by then I won't be able to crawl under it to check the lines for rust.
#4
Registered User
Get yourself some Cunifer brake lines.. and fuel lines.
If you don't tear them off you will not need to replace them.
The material bends easily by hand, can be pressed easier than steel brake line and is extremely corrosion resistant.
If you don't tear them off you will not need to replace them.
The material bends easily by hand, can be pressed easier than steel brake line and is extremely corrosion resistant.
#5
Administrator
That happened to me two years ago, though where mine let go was further forward on the outboard side of the frame rail before it went up and over to the inboard side. Same thing, it had corrosion and it split open. I fixed mine with a three lengths of premade brake lines from the parts store and two couplers to connect them together. Been fine since.
After changing the line, I was very grateful to own a power bleeder. I can't recommend one of those tools enough, worth every penny. Mine is made by Motive Products. I was able to bleed and flush all the brake lines in about 20 minutes with it working alone.
To help prevent the lines from rotting from the inside out, you should change the brake fluid and flush the lines/calipers every 3-5 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (easily absorbs moisture) which causes internal corrosion of all the brake components.
After changing the line, I was very grateful to own a power bleeder. I can't recommend one of those tools enough, worth every penny. Mine is made by Motive Products. I was able to bleed and flush all the brake lines in about 20 minutes with it working alone.
To help prevent the lines from rotting from the inside out, you should change the brake fluid and flush the lines/calipers every 3-5 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (easily absorbs moisture) which causes internal corrosion of all the brake components.
#6
Registered User
Since I live in a region of road salt and mountains- brake fluid every 2 years latest- (do not check boiling boint in the reservoir, check with a sample from the brake bleeder- where it will get hot)
Check your brake lines and hoses annually latest... Can increase your lifespan significantly. (On secondary roads downslopes of less than 12% do not need a warnign sign unless longer than approximately 3 miles- 16% longer than 1 mile.... )
Check your brake lines and hoses annually latest... Can increase your lifespan significantly. (On secondary roads downslopes of less than 12% do not need a warnign sign unless longer than approximately 3 miles- 16% longer than 1 mile.... )
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