How can I tell if my vacuum shift motor is bad?
Seems this 2001 with 280,000 miles on it is making some front end noise. I took it in and they tell me that I need new upper and lower ball joints on both sides and the drivers side front seal is leaking.. Okay, that alone is $1600 (labor and parts from Dodge).
I tell them I have a bad noise on the front end somewhere (Does'nt matter if I'm in 4x4 or not- and my light on the dash does come on when in 4 wheel drive). Its almost like the plastic inside the fender has fallen down and the tire hits and rubs it for just a second, every full circle around. The faster I drive, the faster the Rrrrr, Rrrrr, Rrrrr....
So, after buying a book, I think I may be looking at the vaccuum shift motor not letting me run 4x4 like it should, or let me out... Im a little lost!!.. I did pull the vacuum lines and when I shift in and out of 4 wheel drive, the hoses switch back and forth sucking air. Is the shift moter hold oil seperately on its own, or share it from another source? I just installed a rebuild transfer case on my own and dont know if the problem started right after that or when I changed it out... Hmmmmmm...
Thats all I know, but can someone tell me how to check to see if maybe its not the shift motor? Maybe its just that things don't line up if the uppers and lower ball joints are that bad? I dont know.....Guess thats why Im here!
Thanks to all the read my post..
Special thanks to anyone that posts a reply! :-)
I tell them I have a bad noise on the front end somewhere (Does'nt matter if I'm in 4x4 or not- and my light on the dash does come on when in 4 wheel drive). Its almost like the plastic inside the fender has fallen down and the tire hits and rubs it for just a second, every full circle around. The faster I drive, the faster the Rrrrr, Rrrrr, Rrrrr....
So, after buying a book, I think I may be looking at the vaccuum shift motor not letting me run 4x4 like it should, or let me out... Im a little lost!!.. I did pull the vacuum lines and when I shift in and out of 4 wheel drive, the hoses switch back and forth sucking air. Is the shift moter hold oil seperately on its own, or share it from another source? I just installed a rebuild transfer case on my own and dont know if the problem started right after that or when I changed it out... Hmmmmmm...
Thats all I know, but can someone tell me how to check to see if maybe its not the shift motor? Maybe its just that things don't line up if the uppers and lower ball joints are that bad? I dont know.....Guess thats why Im here!
Thanks to all the read my post..
Special thanks to anyone that posts a reply! :-)
Nobody knows?
Okay, so my question either didnt have enough information, or it just something that never needs any attention.
I really think my front axle is not fully engaging or disengaging, but I dont know what to do to find out if the vacuum pump is at fault or not.
Can I simply disconnect my front drive shaft from the transfer case to tell me anything? Can I remove the fork inside the vacuum pump to give me any information?
Something is wrong, but Im just lost on where to start looking for answers..
Thanks all
-Trace
I really think my front axle is not fully engaging or disengaging, but I dont know what to do to find out if the vacuum pump is at fault or not.
Can I simply disconnect my front drive shaft from the transfer case to tell me anything? Can I remove the fork inside the vacuum pump to give me any information?
Something is wrong, but Im just lost on where to start looking for answers..
Thanks all
-Trace
If your 4WD light is coming on, your vacuum motor IS working. The switch is on the left side of the mount so the fork pin actually pushes in the switch to light the 4Wd light. If it is engaging and you get suction from both vacuum hoses alternately when the 4WD is engaged or not, then the vacuum motor is working fine. The vacuum motor is simply a rubber membrane inside the housing, so if there was a hole, then you wouldn't hold it in 4WD and activate the light at all. That also means that it is disconnecting fully, too, unless there is some sort of blockage along the fork. It's pretty easy to unbolt the fork cover and check everything out, just make sure to engage the fork on the sleeve when you put it back together. Also add some differential oil through the switch hole when you're finished. Hope this helps....
Cummins Guru


Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 65
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
I would check actuator for binding and full movement, also check vacumn supply lines for cracks and leaks. Also check shift collar for free movement when cover is off. If you remove axle shaft then check plastic bushing at end of axle shaft this keeps shaft in alignment with the intermediate shaft if worn replace. Good Luck
1 - CHECK VALVE
2 - CONTROL SWITCH ON TRANSFER CASE
3 - AIR VENT FILTER
4 - AXLE SHIFT MOTOR
5 - INDICATOR SWITCH
1 - INDICATOR SWITCH
2 - E-CLIP
3 - O-RING
4 - SHIFT MOTOR
5 - SHIFT FORK
6 - VACUUM PORTS
7 - DISCONNECT HOUSING AND GASKET
1 - INDICATOR LAMP SWITCH
2 - DISCONNECT HOUSING
3 - VACUUM SHIFT MOTOR
4 - AXLE SHAFT
5 - SEAL
6 - SHIFT COLLAR
7 - SHIFT FORK
8 - BEARING
9 - INTERMEDIATE AXLE SH
1 - CHECK VALVE
2 - CONTROL SWITCH ON TRANSFER CASE
3 - AIR VENT FILTER
4 - AXLE SHIFT MOTOR
5 - INDICATOR SWITCH
1 - INDICATOR SWITCH
2 - E-CLIP
3 - O-RING
4 - SHIFT MOTOR
5 - SHIFT FORK
6 - VACUUM PORTS
7 - DISCONNECT HOUSING AND GASKET
1 - INDICATOR LAMP SWITCH
2 - DISCONNECT HOUSING
3 - VACUUM SHIFT MOTOR
4 - AXLE SHAFT
5 - SEAL
6 - SHIFT COLLAR
7 - SHIFT FORK
8 - BEARING
9 - INTERMEDIATE AXLE SH
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