High EGT's
 

ok i started this along time ago and haven't been on here in a long time. but anyways.

i have an 2002 dodge cummins. and i am haveing an high egt problem. i have done everything and talked to everyone what i can do. i know i say i have a comp box on my truck but you can turn it on in the cab. but going down the road i can stomp on the gas and get going around 60 to 70mph and have my egt's well over 1200 before the turbo. i have 26lbs of boost so it isn't a boost problem. and when i turn the comp chip on i can peg my 1600 degree gauge. there is something wrong with my truck and i don't know what it is.

Now if i get a bigger turbo, witch i am really close doing, will this help my egt problem out by makeing the truck breath better.

here is my old thread if you want to read any of it.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...ad.php?t=81496

please help me. i am lost.
Rob

get an hx35 then have it modifed to a hybrid 35/40. it should help out and cost less then a brand new turbo. your egts are high becuase your not flowing enugh air into the motor. eventhough your boost is up it just doesn't send a high enugh volume of air down stream. hope this helps a little.
oh and get rid of the K&N they are not that good on diesels. get a BHAF or an afe

Link didn't work, so I'll take a stab, there could be a whole slew of issues that you may have causing problem. Those 35" big tires if equipped with 3.55 ratio(even 4.11 somewhat) will lug engine most of the time=high egt's, keep o/d button locked out unless on hiway, or use lower gear. Are you getting lots of excess smoke, even when pedal to floor?

Throw out K&N filter and get an AFE, or minimum BHAF for better airflow. Remove muffler and replace with straight pipe, or upgrade to 4" exhaust. Boost should be more in the low 30+lbs. with comp. Crimp off/block rubber line if you have HX-35, or j-hook HY-35 to get more boost, if not check for boost leaks.

Too tight torque converter(if auto) will lug engine also. One of these is probably causing your problem, try these 1st before buying new turbo.[coffee]

There is nothing wrong with a K&N if it is cleaned and oiled properly:rolleyes:

Eric

Ask me how I know, I had one.[duhhh] [laugh]

i have done all of this besides getting rid of the k&n. well i took it out and drove around with no filter to see if that was the problem or not. and it wasn't.
umm i took the 35" off and put stock tires on to see if that was the problem and nothing really changed. i have 4" exhaust. and my boost is 26lbs 27lbs at the most. i haven't touch my trans, so i can't answer that question.

Your boost is too low if 26-27lbs is all you can get out of it. What are you using as a boost fooler?, are you using a j-hook? If you have an HY-35 with the auto, and you have it j-hooked you should get into the low 30+ lbs boost. If wastegate is disabled, you must have a boost leak somewhere-usually intercooler boots. I used to run 34-35lbs with injectors, and Catcher alone with my old HY-35 turbo[coffee] .

Lets all remember KISS. (keep it simple stupid)
what are your pyro temps a idle? could your pyro be reading wrong?Sounds like it. could be reading +400* off.
I just don't want you throwing money at tryin to fix the problem when it might be something simple. I done that way too many times myself.[duhhh] [duhhh]
Did you look for boost leaks? the checker is pretty simple and cheap to make with parts from home depot.

I mentioned his boost pressure is too low at 25-26lbs, and to check for leaks in both my posts already[duhhh] . Pyro sender could be out, but not by 400F never seen one out anywhere near that before-usually if it is out it's more like 50-maybe up to 200F, or reads on either low or high side of numbers. If sender wire has been cut, and length has been altered it will affect reading. Find out why your boost is too low first, before proceeding further.[coffee]

When I first installed my pyro, the gauge had a bad connection to the harness. Caused temps to be ~700 high. Fired up on a cold engine, was reading 1000F, and just cruising at 1200 rpm in 3rd, the gauge was pegged.
Get teh gauge checked, or borrow someones and test it out.

At cold idle normal startup range egt reading pre-turbo is from 200F nearly immediately, then climbs to 300-350F(maybe even up to 400) for most trucks depending on fueling, air filter, exhaust size or exhaust brake, or timing setting.

If egt's were in excess of this by a great amount at idle, then it points to a faulty sending unit or gauge usually. Other symptoms like bad spray pattern, leaky injector, timing off, boost leak, overfueling for turbo size, lugging engine etc will cause egt's to spike when load is placed on it, but gauge may still be accurate, but read high because of a problem that may exist as stated above. Hope this clears it up.[coffee]

What is EGT at idle - should be around 200deg, as mentioned above.

Colder ambients will reduce the idle temps, some

If it's higher than that, maybe you have the wrong TC wire for that gage - J is white\red\brown cover, K is yellow\red\yellow cover, with red being negative.

Or, if you've extended the probe with copper wire, the indication will be way off

Then, of course, there's the black smoke issue - black smoke means high EGT's under any circumstance.

First thought was larger load due to tire size, but if its the same with stock tires then that ruled that option out.

I have jammer nozzles and a comp box and i have to really push hard to hit 1400 degrees so id be more inclined to think your gauge is reading wrong.

Any chance its an autometer?

I have a hybrid HX for sale. See classifieds. This would help you a ton.

YES I have changed my gauge and probe. that is what i thought it was too. umm at idle my truck runs from 400 to 600* i think. i don't have my truck with me right now but tonight i will check.