I am contemplating doing my own VP44 replacement. I’ve read many threads on the subject and reviewed the Chrysler Service manual for my truck. There are a few things that still trouble me; so I’ve decided to ask for some answers from you guys.

I know that the engine should be rotated until the keyway is at the 12 o’clock position. My question is can the keyway fall into the gear housing even if it’s at the 12 o’clock position? This applies to removal as well as install. Is the keyway hard to place into the pump shaft? If it’s not in there correctly, then maybe it could be knocked out during the install. The reason I ask is that I read one thread whereby the person indicated that they had the keyway at the 12 o’clock position but it still came out into the gear housing. I think this was during the removal.

As regards the pump nut and washer, are those relatively easy to remove from the shaft? It would seem to me that, if anything fell into the gear housing, it would one of those items. It doesn’t appear like either one would be hard to grab hold of to remove.

I have read numerous threads whereby people who have done this job say they used super glue to hold the keyway in place or they used grease to do the job. According to my service manual, and I quote, “The machined tapers on both injection pump shaft and injection pump gear must be absolutely dry, clean and free of any dirt or oil film. This will insure proper gear-to-shaft tightening.” Since the keyway is mounted in the machined taper of the pump shaft I don’t see being able to use anything other than some sort of glue on the bottom of the keyway.

I’m sure the injector pump is a bit heavy so when removing, is it easy to nick the injection pump shaft on the gear housing during removal? That’s a no, no according to my service manual. I’m 63 years old and not quite as agile or as strong as I used to be. If I decide to do this job myself I’ll probably have a few beers to take the edge off.

One last thing - I‘ve been looking at the FPCM 9-way connector. How do you remove it? I see a couple of tiny screws; are those something you have to take out? I’m looking at it from the side and the connector appears to be at the back.

I would appreciate any thoughts on this. Before anyone suggests that I review the Diesel-Dan videos on Putfile.com. I have a dial-up connection on my pc and viewing videos on the web is an extremely slow process.

 

I was in your shoes about a year ago, had a dead VP in the truck, ordered my own, had tools ready, watched the video by dan like 4 times. Unfortunately this was the day after graduating college, that lead to-> , and wound up with a hurt hand. The pump was hard to get to, heavy, and I banged my hand a lot. Went to doc later a little after I started, turns out my hand was fractured, so once I got a slick cast(whole forearm), I just brought the truck to a diesel shop and they finished it up. It was a big relief to KNOW it was done right. It would've been nice to get the experience, though. Just make sure you have plenty of time to do it and a nice place to work in.

Also, based on my experience, maybe save those brews until the end

 

I did it myself and had the same thoughts as you. The plug connecter has a pull slide to unlock it, it than just pulls off. The key is stuck in shaft pretty snug. Make sure the arrow is pointing the right way when installing new pump. The big nut comes off fairly easy. The gear stays put on top of the other gears. I used a mirror to see when 12. oclock position rolled around. I removed the first 3 injector lines completly off the engine and left the last 3 hooked to the injectors. There is enough room to wiggle pump out of there with those last 3 there. I did not see how to unhook the number 6 line off injector without a lot of cursing. I used the altenator nut as an engine turner, put a socket and t bar and rotate engine pretty easy one way, i think it went counter clockwise pretty good.

 

Here's a couple of other tips:
1. Besure you get all the mounting bolts/nuts off. The pump is connected to a bracket on the bottom.
2. Get a cheap 17MM box -end wrench and cut a notch in the box end that is just large enough for the fuel line to pass through. This will help to remove the lines from the pump.
3. When you get ready to remove the nut and washer, put a telescoping magnet (available at the parts counter) on the end of the shaft then slide the nut and washer onto the magnet.
4. A dab of super glue on the new key will hold it in place during install.
5. Be sure to use the correct key. Mine was numbered to the pump. Don't use the old key for the new pump.
6. The more lines you remove the better. I left them connected together in sets and removed them from the injectors and pump.

Good luck

 

The only issue that I can se with doing this yourself is that you are not quite as nimble as younger folks. But you have the wisdom of not rushing it. Make sure you have a good place to stand on, you will have to reach in and down. Make sure you have good lighting and a work mirror. Take your time.
The key does not fall out easily. The nut is not super tight. Turning the engine using the alternator nut is easy. It took me about 3 hours, taking my time and doing everything meticulously. If you have a helper the job will be a bit easier. The pump is not very heavy. What I did to line up the key when installing mine, was to put it in just enough to install the bolts, then go to the front of truck and using a mirror and a light on the pump side, I aligned the key perfectly, then bolted the pump in place. Good luck!

 

I have changed 100 of these pumps and never dropped key in engine yet. If worried about it get yourself a magnet and and hole on end of shaft when removing to catch key if it comes loose. Stand the new pump and old pump on bench with shaft up and turn new pump shaft until key is in exact position as old pump. Take small hammer and tap key until it is down make sure it is all the way in keyway slot and even across tapered shaft. Install new oring seal and oil slightly. Go slowly when you install pump that studs are aligned with pump and watch key and gear that they align perfectly. If off slightly pull pump out and move shaft a little. If you aligned with old pump they should be very close. When lined up get mirror and check that key is in center of slot on gear. Push pump on until flush against housing and then start a nut while holding pump in position. Don't let it drop out of housing. Here is procedure, it sounds harder then it is. Good Luck
FUEL INJECTION PUMP
CAUTION: Whenever the fuel injection pump is removed from the engine, the pump drive gear is laying loose on the camshaft drive gear. Never attempt to crank or rotate the engine with the pump removed from the engine. Serious damage will occur.

REMOVAL
CAUTION: Refer to Cleaning Fuel System Parts.

Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of cables.
Thoroughly clean fuel lines at cylinder head and injection pump ends. Thoroughly clean fuel injection pump and supply/return lines at side of pump.
Disconnect 9 - way electrical connector at Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) FPCM 9 - Way Connector
Remove fuel return line at side of injection pump by removing overflow valve Fuel Supply and Return Lines at Pump Place rag beneath overflow valve to catch excess fuel.
Remove fuel supply line at side of injection pump by removing banjo bolt Fuel Supply and Return Lines at Pump Also remove same line at top of fuel filter housing (banjo bolt)
Remove all high-pressure fuel lines, intake air tube, accelerator pedal position sensor, air intake housing, engine oil dipstick tube, wiring clips, electrical cables at intake heaters and engine lifting bracket. Refer to High-Pressure Fuel Line Removal/Installation. All of these items are covered in this procedure.
Unscrew plastic access cap Access Cap at Front Gear Cover at front gear cover
CAUTION: To prevent pump/gear keyway from falling into gear housing, engine must be rotated until keyway is at 12 o'clock position Placing Keyway at 12 Oclock Position If gear retainer nut, washer or key drops into gear housing, cover may have to be removed to retrieve them before engine is started.

Remove nut and washer retaining injection pump gear to injection pump shaft Access Cap at Front Gear Cover
The engine can be rotated with a barring tool such as Snap-On No. SP371, MTE No. 3377371 (Cummins Tool Division), or an equivalent. The opening for barring tool is located in rear flange of engine on exhaust manifold side Rotating Engine with Barring Tool Remove rubber access plug covering this opening.
Insert barring tool into flywheel housing opening Rotating Engine with Barring Tool
Rotate engine until keyway is at 12 o'clock position Placing Keyway at 12 Oclock Position
Use T-bar type puller Separating Injection Pump Gear from Pump Shaft to separate injection pump gear from injection pump shaft. Attach two M8 X 1.24 MM (metric) screws through puller and into two threaded holes supplied in pump gear. Pull injection pump gear forward until it loosens from injection pump shaft. Pull on gear only enough to loosen it from injection pump shaft. Pulling gear too far may cause damage or breakage to gear cover.
Remove 3 lower pump bracket bolts Lower Pump Bracket and Mounting Bolts and remove lower pump bracket. Loosen, but do not remove 2 engine bracket bolts Lower Pump Bracket and Mounting Bolts
Remove 4 injection pump-to-gear housing mounting nuts Injection Pump Mounting Nuts
Remove injection pump from gear housing. Take care not to nick injection pump shaft on aluminum gear housing when removing pump. Also be very careful not to drop pump keyway Keyway, Keyway Arrow and Keyway Number into gear housing.
CAUTION: Whenever the fuel injection pump is removed from the engine, the pump drive gear is laying loose on the camshaft drive gear. Never attempt to crank or rotate the engine with the pump removed from the engine. Serious damage will occur.

INSTALLATION
Inspect pump mounting surfaces at pump and mounting flange for nicks, cuts or damage. Inspect o-ring surfaces for nicks, cuts or damage.
Clean injection pump mounting flange Cleaning Pump Mounting Flange at gear housing. Also clean front of injection pump.
Install new rubber o-ring Keyway, Keyway Arrow and Keyway Number at pump mounting area.
Apply clean engine oil to injection pump o-ring only.
The machined tapers on both injection pump shaft and injection pump gear Injection Pump Installation must be absolutely dry, clean and free of any dirt or oil film. This will ensure proper gear-to-shaft tightening.

Clean pump gear and pump shaft at machined tapers Injection Pump Installation with an evaporative type cleaner such as brake cleaner.
Keyway Installation:

The pump/gear keyway has an arrow and a 3 - digit number stamped at top edge Keyway, Keyway Arrow and Keyway Number Position keyway into pump shaft with arrow pointed to rear of pump. Also be sure 3 - digit number stamped to top of keyway is same as 3 - digit number stamped to injection pump data plate Injection Pump Data Plate Location If wrong keyway is installed, a diagnostic trouble code may be set.
Position pump assembly to mounting flange on gear cover while aligning injection pump shaft through back of injection pump gear. When installing pump, dowel Injection Pump Installation on mounting flange must align to hole in front of pump.
After pump is positioned flat to mounting flange, install four pump mounting nuts and tighten finger tight only. Do not attempt a final tightening at this time. Do not attempt to tighten (pull) pump to gear cover using mounting nuts. Damage to pump or gear cover may occur. The pump must be positioned flat to its mounting flange before attempting to tighten mounting nuts.
To prevent damage or cracking of components, tighten nuts/bolts in the following sequence:
Install injection pump shaft washer and nut to pump shaft. Tighten nut finger tight only.
Position lower pump bracket and install 3 bolts finger tight only.
Do preliminary tightening of injection pump shaft nut to 30 N·m (15 - 22 ft. lbs.) torque. This is not the final torque.
Tighten 4 pump mounting nuts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
Tighten 3 lower pump bracket-to-pump bolts 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Tighten 2 engine bracket-to-engine bolts 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Do final tightening of injection pump shaft nut to 170 N·m (125 ft. lbs.) torque. Use barring tool to prevent engine from rotating when tightening gear.
Install plastic access cap Access Cap at Front Gear Cover to front gear cover.
Using new gaskets, install fuel return line and overflow valve to side of injection pump Fuel Supply and Return Lines at Pump Tighten overflow valve to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Using new gaskets, install fuel supply line to side of injection pump and top of fuel filter housing Fuel Supply and Return Lines at Pump Tighten banjo bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Install all high-pressure fuel lines, intake air tube, accelerator pedal position sensor, air intake housing, engine oil dipstick tube, wiring clips, electrical cables at intake heaters and engine lifting bracket. Refer to High-Pressure Fuel Line Removal/Installation. All of these items are covered in this procedure.
Connect 9 - way electrical connector to Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) FPCM 9 - Way Connector
Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries.
Bleed air from fuel system. Refer to Air Bleed Procedure.
Check system for fuel or engine oil leaks.

 

the job really isn't a bad as it appears to be. The more you think about it the worse it seems. It can be accomplished by anyone who has some mechanical abilities. I did mine in under 1 1/2 hours start to finish

 

look at it this way even if you drop it, think of the learning curve! worse case is you'd have to remove the front timing cover, and if you have to go that far you could check front cover bolts and check the KDP (some have said they backed out on a 24V)
but seriously, take your time, all all should be OK,

 

The only thing I can add is, put a daub of white or bright paint on front of key. Now you can easily see for chacking alignment. Once you have it all aligned it will glide into place. A cheap steering wheel puller will get shaft loose from gear. Much pressure and a hammer tap helps.

 

Thanks for all of the replies. I do feel better about doing the install myself. However, I am going to meditate on it some more. I want to be 99.9% sure that I can do this before I start. Besides, I had rather wait until the weather warms up consistently.