fuel leak
fuel leak
I found my leak it is in the return line from the tee at the back of the engine to the injector pump .
Is it best to go back to Chrysler for the lines. And can I buy just that one, if its not best to buy from chrysler is there a supplier that is good to buy from.
looks like I need to take the fuel filter canister off as there seems to be a hanger right behind it. Would it help to remove the starter or do you do it all from the top.
also I read a post on here that said to check the number four injector line. There seems to be some dampness in that area and when I shut the truck down there was a couple of drops on the line. It was in a curve of the line.
Can I buy just one of those lines or do you have to buy a set
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Pa Farthing
Is it best to go back to Chrysler for the lines. And can I buy just that one, if its not best to buy from chrysler is there a supplier that is good to buy from.
looks like I need to take the fuel filter canister off as there seems to be a hanger right behind it. Would it help to remove the starter or do you do it all from the top.
also I read a post on here that said to check the number four injector line. There seems to be some dampness in that area and when I shut the truck down there was a couple of drops on the line. It was in a curve of the line.
Can I buy just one of those lines or do you have to buy a set
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Pa Farthing
Well, if you seem to have many leaks at once do dry off all the places and check again. The fan will blow drops of fluid everywhere and lead you on a wild goose chase.
What happens very often is that the copper washers on the lines go bad. So change them first (little work and low cost) and check for other leaks after doing this.
What happens very often is that the copper washers on the lines go bad. So change them first (little work and low cost) and check for other leaks after doing this.
You can check around the various vendors on the Cummins forums. Like Pure Diesel Power has lots of factory Cummins parts. The T fitting doesnt have flat copper washers but rather rubber seals. You may be able to tighten it up a bit. The banjo fittings are flat copper washers, but make sure you get Cummins replacement ones, not parts store ones. And dont tighten any banjo more than 18 lbs.
The injector lines are tapered and I believe are 40 lbs. Again, you may be able to loosen and re-tighten for a better seal. Just remember that any time you open the fuel system you introduce air which takes a day or two to purge out.
The injector lines are tapered and I believe are 40 lbs. Again, you may be able to loosen and re-tighten for a better seal. Just remember that any time you open the fuel system you introduce air which takes a day or two to purge out.
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