Put new brake pads on my front end and think my calipers might not be retracting all the way. Was wondering if anyone knows what normal operating temperature might be on front brakes? Using a thermometer I'm getting temps from 280-300 on my rotors after about 10 miles of driving around 60 mph between traffic lights.

 

My front rotors will get up to 100* - 150* on normal driving with very little braking. 300* is too hot and is either because your calipers are dragging or because the rear brakes are not pulling their weight. The rear drums are very strong but if the star adjusters gets stuck or seized from corrosion then the shoes will eventually loose their ability to reach the drum walls. Braking power in the rear goes down and the front rotors pick up the slack.

I'd suggest you make sure the drums are properly adjusted. The shoes last a long long time too so likely no need to replace anything. Then it would be a good idea to make sure the front calipers are working smoothly. When I replace the front pads I've pumped the brake pedal to push out the caliper pistons as far as they can go without popping out all the way. Then collapse them back in with a C clamp and let them reset themselves. Just dont press the brake pedal down to the floor otherwise you run the risk of damaging the master cylinder. Small pumping movements simulating normal brake pedal action is best.

 

Every time I've done a brake reline, I've rebuilt the calipers and wheel cylinders...The crud that builds up on the cylinder walls and pistons is what causes calipers and wheel cylinders to stick...Rebuilding them hones the cylinder walls, and gives the components a fresh start with new, pliable o-rings and dust boots, and fresh fluid...No more problem......Ben

 

think i figured out that my calipers are sticking, changing them in the morning, hope it fixes it. thanks

 

It's infinitely cheaper to rebuild them yourself...But ya do what ya gotta do......Ben

 

Another thing to point out is the pads dont always fit in the caliber brackets very easily and therefore wont slide back and forth as the caliper pushes them. I always put the pads in the brackets and see how they move first and if they're not fitting good then I'll file them down to make sure they slide easily.

 

All 3 brake hoses are a good idea as well.

Cheap insurance

 

Good idea...When they collapse internally from old age and hard use, they can act like a check valve for the fluid preventing the release of the pressure and keeping the brake applied......Ben

 

Ding, ding, ding.

Winner, winner, chicken dinner.

 

Be sure and clean up and lube the sliders the pads ride on so the caliper has an easier time retracting.

 

Changed both calipers and hoses, bled them with the truck off and now when I turn it on I have no brakes. After pumping the pedal a few times there is no change and my ABS and brake light are coming on. I don’t understand what is going wrong.

 

As I pre warned in my previous post, you can't pump the brake pedal to the floor when you're trying to bleed the brakes or reset the pads. What happens is you push the master cylinder plunger out of its normal range of service and damage the plunger and/or push debris into the brake system. This can affect the ABS system as well.

 

How do you suggest I find out if my master cylinder isn’t what’s actually damaged? Is this even possible?

 

I never thought of this before, but it would be interesting to know what method auto manufacturers use to fill and bleed air from new brake systems on new vehicles......Ben

 

When the truck is off and i push the pedal i feel resistance. However when I turn the engine on there is no resistance in the pedal