Engine replacement
Engine replacement
I'm exploring all my options for replacing my dead engine... as far as used engines go,my question is can I look for all years from 98.5 to '02? What about transmission?... Since my truck is an auto, do I have to get an engine from an auto equipped truck? If so, what would I have to do to adapt manual trans engine to my auto (in case I find a good deal)?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Well, I have one answer... sometime during the '00 model year, Cummins stopped using the crank position sensor so that pretty much limits me to 98.5 - 99... unless I find a complete drop-in engine I guess.
Originally posted by jimjawz
how did it die in the first place...poor thing
how did it die in the first place...poor thing
I have a lead on a '00 short block that supposedly has the CPS... It had over 100K on it and needs a piston, but I can get it for $1000.
The only thing that worries me is that it has been sitting (indoors fortunately) for 2 years... I just worry about the bearings and stuff.
But, I could pick this up, replace the piston, possibly the rings too, and still come out well ahead of the $4200 price tag for a Cummins recon short block...
Thoughts?
The only thing that worries me is that it has been sitting (indoors fortunately) for 2 years... I just worry about the bearings and stuff.
But, I could pick this up, replace the piston, possibly the rings too, and still come out well ahead of the $4200 price tag for a Cummins recon short block...
Thoughts?
My dad gave me a 351 ford cleveland that was wrecked @20,000 miles it was crated up and stored in our shop.....for 22 years when I put it in a 77' pickup....it ran fine for about 40 hours and then wiped the bearings....electrolosys? who knows, I replaced the rods and mains and just sold it 10 years and 90,000 miles later. I would look at the rods and mains if it was me just because of what happend to me, it is a heck of alot easier on the stand the first time, and if they are good it will give you some piece of mind, if not it saved you pulling it again.
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Originally posted by CoastalDav
If I had the same problem, I would throw the computer and the engine out and put a 12V in with a manual tranny. Add a fuel plate to the 7100 and come up to 300 hp.
Dave
If I had the same problem, I would throw the computer and the engine out and put a 12V in with a manual tranny. Add a fuel plate to the 7100 and come up to 300 hp.
Dave
Seriously though, the 12V has crossed my mind... but I'd rather just buy a 12V truck and have two trucks!
You check www.car-part.com? I have seen engines for as little as 2500.00, and you get a complete engine you can drop in. It's usually a short warranty from a parts recycler, but it is a warranty.
Just make sure you don't get a "53" block.
Chris
Just make sure you don't get a "53" block.
Chris
You check www.car-part.com?
OK, there's another place. HaulinInDixie found his current engine there:
http://www.dieselenginetrader.com
He used an industrial engine and made some mods to make it work in his truck, computer stuff I think.
Chris
http://www.dieselenginetrader.com
He used an industrial engine and made some mods to make it work in his truck, computer stuff I think.
Chris
Originally posted by CoastalDav
If I had the same problem, I would throw the computer and the engine out and put a 12V in with a manual tranny. Add a fuel plate to the 7100 and come up to 300 hp.
Dave
If I had the same problem, I would throw the computer and the engine out and put a 12V in with a manual tranny. Add a fuel plate to the 7100 and come up to 300 hp.
Dave
I dont know what I agree with! but the tear dwn is all most the same as any six gasser except stuff is bigger,and the crank sensor they moved up front because of weird vibrations from the counter. you cant hardly "roll" bngs into these cause of the oil squirters droping dwn and get sheared off so you would have to pull the crank to get at the upper ones.
personally I would stay with the isb set up
personally I would stay with the isb set up


