ECM question's
 

Keep getting severe hesitations and no communication from ecm to vp code and a low volt code. After looking thru lots of test procedures on alldata I believe I have a faulty ecm.

1. I have a lead on an ecm manufactured 2 months after mine with low miles. The ecm code is different than mine, Will that make a difference? I thought they might all be the same for 1 year or certain engine hp.

2.My ecm was reprogrammed later in 98 by dc (sticker uder hood) Will that make any difference?

3. Are the ecms transmissions specific? manual/auto

3. Do I need to avoid california and mass ecm's?

4. I read somewhere that someone installed a smarty and it fixed their ecm problem, Will this work since the smarty reprograms the ecm?

5. I also have the companion code, Should I get dc to read and see what companion code is all about before proceeding? I have had that code for several years.

This electronic stuff is confusing to me.

1. you have to have a ecm off of a truck that is EXACTLY like yours
2.it shouldnt matter
3.YES very specific. auto, 5 speed, or 6 speed
3.i dunno, :p
4.it may work, depends on whats wrong with yours
5.you may have the code deleted, just for giggles

Thanks, I doubt there is a difference between 5 and 6 speed, just manual or auto.

Anybody else?????????????

I am so confused I put #3 down twice [duhhh].
My brother is getting a Smarty and he might let me borrow it to see if it will fix my ecm.

Have you addressed the 'low votage' problem yet?

DVM should read min +12.6v at the battery, IGN off.

Should read +12.6v at the battery, headlites ON, engine off

Should read min +13.2v engine idling, headlites ON.

Replace both battery's at the same time - low output battery will drag a good battery down, cause ECM codes.

Batteries replaced last fall, readings are good... checked w/ meter.
Volt gauge never drops below 14 when driving.

the 5 and 6 speed's in 99-00 might be the same, the 6 speed factory is a rare duck, but the 01-02 is defintly different because one is a ho and one is a so.

If you can test out the smarty, when you go back to stock you'll be getting a free reflash so thats definately worth a shot. Testing the smarty enabled cold weather features when I went back to the stock program :)

Wait its your bro? Download the smarty software then tell him he's got to catch you and take off [laugh] [laugh]

Just started having what sounds like a similar problem. The trouble seemed to start after leaving it sit for the better part of a week while out of town on business. Might be a factor, might not. Who knows.

It's intermittent but the hesitation is definitely severe. Check engine light never comes on. Was due for a fuel filter change so I took it in to DC and brought up the issue. Was told 'no engine light; no codes registered in the computer...' In other words, good luck trying to find the problem. Service rep suggested monitoring it after the filter change. Problem is still there.

So far, putting the pedal down seems to smarten it up, for a little while anyway. Seems to occur while running steady at 1200 - 1500 rpm for while. Also seems to happen more often on warmer days.

What's a replacement ecm worth?

Okay , I stayed at the Holiday Express last night... so I am qualified to answer this one ,

#1 , which ecm that is compatible is dependent on CPL , nothing else ,

#2 no difference

#3 any calibration can be set for standard tranny or auto tranny. so that means any ecm in that CPL will work.

#4 most likely your ecm is not the problem. you need to troubleshoot that fault code.

Just in case you don't know where to find the CPL #, you need to look at the data plate on teh engine. Take a look here :

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...data_plate.JPG

He got it a few days ago, set it on 9 to start and called me all happy and laughing. A reflash when going back to stock, cool. I think I found my problem, I will reveal in another post. THANKS.

Problem found - I hope!
 

Driving to work yesterday I see the volt gauge is only reading 12 and no severe hesitations on the 100 mile trek. Late in the day I am checking out the alt and it's only putting out 12-12.5 volts. On my truck the wires go thru this molded rubber piece with 3 ring terminals attached to it. I notice the ground terminal nut is loose and a nut (M4) is missing from another post and the whole rubber piece is loose. I am thinking this is my low volt problem and it finally showed itself cause the gauge never showed below 14v until this one morning.

I hope this was the problem.

Once the calibrationis set you can not change it! and yes there is a difference!!!! Also i cant remember the years but one calibration reads oil pressure different from the other due to the type of oil pressure switch/sensor. I have made the mistake myself of installing the wrong calibration on a blank ECM and had send it back and get another one it could not be changed

All of Cummins calibration revision from 2002 on up are set up to work with either a switch type oil press. or sensor type. you may have had the wrong calibration downloaded but wont make a difference in sensor or switch. one has to remember these InCal calibration disk dont work after a certain number of months and all new revision have the updated cals. for switch or sensor use. this was about 2001 when this was all happening. there are many application with the older cals. out there that have to be reburned to lastest revision to use a switch type oil press.

remember I stayed at the Holiday Express [laugh]

OK, now I am lost. Maybe I should go stay at holiday inn express tonight! [duhhh]