I have searched this and have found alot of information. Just wondering how hard is this to really do? I know I need the 2-9/16 socket and seal puller do I need anything else? I have the factory service manual and they make it seem super hard. Just wondering who has done it and how hard they felt it was? I wish someone had a photo how to on this. Mine is just starting to leak, I guess 150k with oversize tires since day one isnt bad. Any help is greatly appreciated. Im going to do all new parking brake shoes and hardware.

 

Flynhigh205 not to many on here that comment on axles i've got a tread with no comment . I don't have a factory manual , I've got a haynes, an after looking around the only contradiction I found was Haynes said to pack the bearings with grease an one sight said that wasn't a good ideal just coat them in oil an after everything is all buttoned up an fluid topped off tilt the axle up for a fue minutes on each side to let the hubs refill . As far as what you need if your just changeing the seal lots of times you can get the seal out with a screw driver but those seal removers aren't exspensive . That being said theres proubly a reason your wheel seal went bad maybe loose or worn wheel bearings they need to be cleaned good an checked . An if they are bad getting the old races out takes a long punch they make one for that . But going back in you have to be careful not to damage the new race they make a driver but you might could take it to a shop an they would do that part for you. They have to be bottomed out against the flanges in the hub . Installing the seal isn't really a big deal after that setting the bearings is where you got too get it right . Too tight is your biggest concern if you read your manual tells you with your bearings oiled while rotating your hub tighten the nut with the big socket that I forgot to mention to 120 t0 140 ft lbs. that sets everything then back it off 1/8 turn then I would turn the hub to make sure it turns smoothly no binding. When you back that nut off it will almost feel like its totally loose remember .001 to .010 isn't much . You might push an pull on the hub to check it . When your satisfied install your locking wedge an do the rest of what it says axle shaft an all that . As far as these tools you might need Autozone loans out tools if you leave a deposit an give it all back . Its not a real brain buster you can jack up the side your gonna do an that will let the gear oil run to the other side an not make as big of mess . Good luck putting into words everything that I have read has kinda help me put into perspective the question I had posed .

 

Travelingman got the majority of it. Once you pull the hub off, you'll want to inspect the axle tube's sealing surface that the wheel seal rides on. If it's grooved, that could be the cause of your leak and you'll want to get a sleeve for it. Like travelingman said, a flat-headed screw driver might work to pull the old seals. A long pry bar would work even better if you've got one (more leverage).

The 2 9/16" socket is a special one if you didn't know that already and are kinda pricey if you don't have one. Although, it won't hurt to invest in one and keep in the garage for the future. Luckily, you don't have to deal with in-board drums like I do on my 1st gen, having to pull axle shafts and wheel hub/drum assemblies just to replace brake shoes and whatnot.

Feel free to check out the following thread I started. I went through the wheel-ends on a Dana 70. Granted, it's on a 1st gen, but it's still a Dana 70. There are some pictures that might help you out. I also bought a wheel bearing kit from Quad 4x4 and their instructions say to pack the bearings. There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing so. It's just assurance in case the gear oil can't make it through the axle tubes to the wheel bearings.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t294662.html

 

Jimbo that thread you did is impressive you left know stone unturned . I like that double nut thats like they were on some of the older big trucks . Question when you installed those bigger wheel cylinders did the push rods mount into the shoes straight an did you have to do some bending on your brake lines I did . Anyway flying high Jimbo's got you covered .

 

Thank you, sir!

The wheel cylinders were actually a straight replacement. I was thinking they were an upgrade but I was wrong. I found out shortly after that the 1-ton trucks (3" wide shoes) use the 1 1/8" wheel cylinder. 3/4-ton trucks (2.5" wide shoes) use a smaller wheel cylinder. I was under the impression that the 1 1/8" cylinders were upgrades for all trucks. So to answer your question, I had no issues with the push rods or steel brake lines working and lining up as they should.