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How about steering linkage on the second gens...
How about second gen steering fix for the linkage.. i am replacing the tierod for the 3 time dew to the drag link coming loose and egg shaping the hole. This is on a HD 2500 4x4, is there a better way then spending 700 or more to do a repair or upgrade.
Originally Posted by rotohead
(Post 2069566)
There's a steering column bushing available if you have a mysterious 'clunk' in the steering linkage. It's very inexpensive but does require some work to get it installed. Do a search on 'steering column fix' or similar to find the product. Great guy to deal with and will answer all your questions.
All my posts above I've done myself and am happy with those mods and recommend them as reliable and within the ability of the average mechanical ability of the average guy with good tools. PM me if you have any more questions. |
Hey first Tim on a forum every. Figured I’d give it a try. Anyways I have a 2001 5.9ln cummins. I just rebuilt the motor ground up bearing crank cam seals hole nine. The head was decked magna fluxed and rebuilt with valves and springs. So I got it fired up running and first 2 days everything was awsome. 3 day I noticed temp gauge was moving around. I have had 2 of theses truck and temp gauges never bounced back and forth. They would open drop a bit the. Hold solid just above 90.c. And my 2001 never bounced before the motor rebuild either. I have re torqued the head check all hoses for leaks, burped the system put my matco compression leak tester and I’m getting no exhaust gas into the rad coolant it not dropping. So I also changed the thermostat twice with a Cummins 190 and also changed the coolant temp sensor with a Cummins coolant temp sensor still nothing changed. I also pressurized the rad system with a rad tester and pressure bled off 4psi in a hour. Now I did the 3 times pressure bled off the last 3 times I checked pressure has not bled off holds a solid 16psi for hours. Truck is a 24v with a 47re. Now like I said I have had to trucks that gauge never bounced when driving it held one spot solid. And I don’t belive some of the stuff that says it’s normal it didn’t do it before what’s causing it now. Also changed rad cap. Any info is good Info. Please help losing sleep over this |
99 24v. 5.9L hard starting
Originally Posted by fireram
(Post 2221764)
Many posts on here about hard starts.
If your truck turns over quickly, but cranks alot after sitting for a while, hot or cold, you could have an air leak in the fuel system. The longer it sits the longer you have to crank to get it to fire... First: The overflow valve at the VP44 return fuel line, can NOT be responsible for maintaining prime, It has a small hole in it prevent it from maintaing pressure in the line. An aftermarket inline check valve, usually installed inline after the Lift Pump, has been known to solve some owners issues. Failing o rings at the injector crossover tubes has been know to cause some owners issues. Loose injectors, or fuel line connections has caused some owners these symptoms. Small pin holes in the return fuel line let air in, but are too small to let fuel out. Mine failed right at the banjo fitting at the VP44.. Failing lift pump. Failing VP44 has been the cause of some owners hard start, without throwing codes right away.. Hope this helps to compile all the Hard start posts relating to Fuel Prime. |
Originally Posted by Hubertchappell
(Post 3381895)
mine had an air leak where the wif sensor pigtail comes out of the top of fuel filter.the rubber grommet let fuel leak out around the wires .... Quick fix = two part epoxy , mix it up and let it ooze over where the wires come out thru the rubber grommet I put enough to cover the grommet and go over the edges to seal it up . I used 5 min epoxy but let it cure overnight couldn't get a replacement grommet , this worked for over 9 months then I reapplied epoxy again after removing old epoxy . It hás not shown any signs of leaking again ,yet.
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