Monty

Fellas im looking for some help on compiling some of the common problems or questions that come up often associated with the 24v engine for the tech facts section. Basically what im looking for is a list of some good threads that have helped out alot of owners.

You can either PM me with your article or you can post a link to the thread within this thread. Thanks in advance. Monty

rodda

To fix torque converter cycling and transmission shift cycling several options known to work:

1. wrap the alternator output wire with a metallic shielding (tin foil or similar) and follow-up with electrical tape. This is the feed wire from the alternator to the battery (may be black/orange in color)

2. Install a RFI filter on the alternator output wire and/or the APPS circuit wire (APPS sensor to the ECM). Almost any decent RFI filter/choke should work. Search for these terms:

47RE RFI Noise Filter
RF Choke
RF Ferrite Choke

3. Clean all ground-wire connections at the battery terminals, engine block, and firewall.

4. Locate the ground-wire connector for the PCM (behind the passenger-side battery). Cut out the connector and solder the wires together (do not use another butt connector). Seal with heatshrink.

pocketchange

Also spray LPS 3 on the connections after the cleaning.
pc

clarkoh

The cracking of the 53 casting number blocks is a very common problem. Will warrantee cover them? What has Cummins done to replace them? Where to look for the casting numbers? What are the good and the best blocks?

lombo

Could this fix my 2001 torque convertor lock -up problem! E-mail cglabudie@wowway.com. Curios before I take it to dealership and get took . Where did you come up with fix?

scottsjeeprolet

Trans temp sensor install and parts
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=116888
VP44 pump wire tap options
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=109753
This is very interesting reading from another post about TC stall speed explained.
to quote Dave Goerend....
"To explain "stall speed", let’s start with a true full stall. If the transmission were in drive, the brakes were held down (so the vehicle will not move) and the throttle was held "wide open" the torque converter will "stall" the engine at a certain rpm. When "stalled" the engine will not be able to spin any faster unless the vehicle is allowed to move. This is a true full stall. We have specialized equipment which is used to perform this test.

DO NOT TEST FOR TRUE STALL, IT CAN DAMAGE SHAFTS AND OVERHEAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER!

The next stall speed is generally called "break away" stall speed. If a truck is stopped on a hill and held in position using light throttle as opposed to brakes we are almost at the "break away" stall speed. If the engine rpm required to "hold" the truck was 1100 rpm and an increase to 1125 rpm started to move the truck then the "break away" stall speed is 1125 rpm.

The last stall speed is generally referred to as the "flash stall" speed. The flash stall speed takes effect under hard acceleration. If, from a standing start, you were to "floor" the throttle the engine would start to accelerate quickly and then pause at an rpm is it starts to pull the truck. If the engine went from idle to 1500 rpm in 1.5 seconds when floored and then took another 2 or 3 seconds to get from 1500 to 1700 rpm, this would mean the "flash stall" speed was at 1500 rpm. When we lower the stall we want to lower the break away speed as well as the flash stall speed. This will make the engine work at a lower rpm for a given road speed and, in most cases, will increase fuel mileage. "
I'm still lookin for more to post. hope it helps.

dixieoutlaw

Has anyone considered a class-action suit against Dodge and Cummins over the cracked blocks in the 53 series diesel engines. This is a well documented problem that seems to be ignored by Dodge and selectively addressed by Cummins, but with still significant costs to the owner. Owners who have paid an extra $5,000 dollars for these engines should expect better.

Gary

danimal1208

Also posted in the non-drivetrain, but here is again.

I'm new to the forum. I have 1999 2500 CTD w/125K. I've had an intermittent problem almost throughout life of truck. Every now and then my fuel gauge will go from current reading to a reading of full. This condition will last anywhere from 4 on up fill ups, and then corrects itself. The entire assembly from float, sending unit, and wiring harness were changed repeatedly (under warranty) by Dodge, but condition intermittently still exists. All other electronics in the vehicle work no problem, just the fuel gauge. Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone have any suggestions? I have read the tech service bulletin seemingly related to this issue concerning fuel gauge reading full for unusual amount of mileage, but don't feel I have same problem, as the TSB mentions that when customers hit a bump in the road the gauge corrects itself, and also the TSB mentions that the phenomenon occurs after fill up, whereas my problem is I appear to be getting on the road refuel, as I watch the needle go from present position to full. Too bad, with diesel as high as it is where I live, this is not simply a case of free fuel. Thanks in advance for any suggestions/assistance. I'm thinking a loose wire somewhere, but don't know where to begin.

daveg

Shortly after I bought my like new '99 ( in '04 w/ 98k mi.) it got increasingly hard to start, it would click each time I turned the key & eventually start. The copper contacts inside the solenoid were worn out... especially the one on the terminal that connects to the pos. batt. cable. When the solenoid is energized & the plunger contacts that pos. terminal a bit of metal transfer occurs ( as in arc welding ) this is normal wear & tear. This metal transfer happens at a faster rate if the batt. voltage / amperage is low, and also as these contacts wear & get dirty & pitted it becomes a self-perpetuating & worsening problem.
I later found out that a reasonably priced kit is available for this fix, but I've repaired a dozen hard, or non-starting rigs over the last 30 years by dis-assembling the solenoid, removing the "L" shaped copper terminals & fabricating replacements using the old parts as a pattern. I've used the copper ends sticking out of large 600volt AC fuses, or for my Dodge I cut the pieces out of some 2" copper pipe I had. The pipe wall thickness was less than the thickness of the original contact material, but I made the new pieces 3 times as wide at the bottom of the "L" ( the part that connects with the plunger contact ).
Tools needed once the solenoid is apart : hack saw, H.D. tin-snips, a drill bit just larger than the terminal bolts, round & flat files or dremmel & attachments to dress up the finished product & polish up contact ring on the solenoid plunger. You cut the pieces to size, bend into an "L" shape, drill one hole in upper ( narrow ) part of the "L" for the terminal bolt, radius the bottom ( wide ) part of the "L" to roughly coincide with the shape of the ring it is going to contact. Trim the ends if needed, put it back together making sure to clean any metal fillings out & making sure that the new contacts which are pos. when energized are insulated, not touching or grounded to the solenoid case.
Total cost = your time & $10.00 or less, depending on the source of copper.
Good luck, contact me if you have questions or problems. My fabricated contacts are going on 4 years in service, no problems, even @ 0 deg.F
daveg.

freddy_772

Lift pumps are a common problem on our trucks. The VP44 pump (on all 24-valves 98-02) can draw in enough fuel to keep you rollin' down the road even if your lift pump is supplying nothing for pressure. This is not a good thing. The inj. pump needs lots of excess fuel for cooling and that is why pressures are important and it will "wear out" without enough delivery pressure. If you do not have a fuel pressure guage and you have over 100,000 miles I would change your lift pump to be safe. It's easy and cheaper than changing the inj. pump down the road. If your VP44 is shot it will be under powered and really limit you as you try to add performance upgrades. Also, installing a new lift pump in front of an already worn out inj. pump will not fix it. If you install a fuel pressure guage of some kind or a low pressure alarm than you will know if the lift pump is doing it's job or not. your inj. pump needs a minimum of 10psi at idle and 4psi under full load and a new lift pump will only meet those specs on a bone stock cummins. Hope this helps.

Redog76

Freddy the great ball of knowledge!! Thanks again for all the info hoss!

DPG

Speaking of lift pumps, I put 6 Cummins lift pumps on my '99 in the first 120,000 miles and got sick of it. I finally had a Bully Dog aftermarket pump installed on the frame rail last fall. I get 24 psi at idle, and never below 18 psi WOT. Doesn't start hard, either. I'm happy as a clam with this setup. With the pump on the frame rail, it won't get shaken to death like the Cummins pumps do mounted on the engine.

rotohead

The notorious OEM track bar is junk. Numerous options depending on the budget. Searches will provide good options. Don't do the HD Moog replacement, won't last much longer than OEM. Least expensive is Lukes Link kit on original TB but will need frequent adjustments in most cases. 3rd gen bracket and trackbar is pricer but a final fix. Other fabed TB's available of various types. Bottom line is this shouldd be the FIRST and earliest mod to the front end to improve the handling and extend the life of other front end parts. Lots of info on which way to go and how to do on this.

rotohead

Early model autos go through front brake pads like butter b/c the rear drums don't carry their fair share of the load and the lack of engine braking that manual trannys provide. Searches will provide three basic solutions.

1) replace rear piston w/ a Chevy 1ton part. Adjust the shoe pads every oil change or more often if you tow heavy.

2)EGR offers a disc conversion kit. Expensive and slightly more time consuming. This is the option I choose and and moderately happy with it. I often wonder if option (1) would have given me the same improvement for less money. I'm stuck with it now so no use in grinding on this one.

3) Axle swap to 01 model. Not as difficult as it might first appear but you still have to locate a axle in good shape.

Any one of the three above choices is much better than OEM.

rotohead

OEM APPS can last a long time but if it goes bad it is a $500 replacement.
"Timbo" (he's a poster here and over at TDR) has a cheaper and imo better replacement for much less than that. You have to use the original bracket and just replace the sensor on the back. Replacement can be done in less than an hour. This is a fairly recent product available but seems to be holding up. Do a user name search and you should come up with Timbo's email address and you can get it from him with good instructions and good service.