Is this a common thing that kills the motors? Is this seen more in 24V rather than 12V's?

 

I don't have any answers to your questions, but thanks for giving me one more thing to worry about now.

 

 

Its not really common but it does and can happen. Keep up on your maintenance, use proper oil and filters, & make sure you cool the truck down before shutting down - if you shut down hot - conventional oils coke in the turbo and can form hard carbon deposits that can cause BIG damage

 

The only time I read about it is the story about the Fram filter comming apart.

Good filters and good clean oil makes motors last.

 

ANY sizeable foreign object that gets past the filter can clog oil passages including the piston cooling jets.

Know the most common? The foil seal from top of the oil jug. People punch it into the jug and then fill the filter. The center of the filter is the clean side and it sucks the seal right into the pump.

Coking oil?
According to Gale Banks that is not an issue.
http://www.bankspower.com/tech_TD-fact-Fiction.cfm
Not me, I always give it a cool down. Same goes with start-up. Let it run for a minute or 2 before easing out on the road

 

I got problems with this in put.......you will notice most problems occur with the 1st couple of yrs of the 24 valve. Reason,-crank counter is a 3ps unit bolted to the rear of crank, somtimes gets a little loose and sets up a harmonic vibration breaking those little plastic things right off!
The next problem is one some know it all teck. tries to "rool in new bearings like in a semi ,,,,in this eng.it absolutely cant be done w.o. those little plastic crappy things dropping and get sheared off in the prosess or broken iff by thir hand.
B.T.D.T.G.T.T.S.
and yes there some oil filters that will blow apart and ruin your lil eng.

 

what we do when rolling in new bearing into the ISB and ISC is get an old bearing and cut it down to quarter lenght and put a taper on the leading edge , roll the upper bearing and stick this quarter bearing in and roll it to the top and pull the old bearing out , roll the new bearing in and the cut bearing will fall out and viola , done deal

 

Sounds like a good idea........but you will never know if they are plugged up or not,the whole concept of plastic is just beyond stupid

 

I would tend to agree with thumper on the plastic part.

Seems a little cheesy doesn't it?? Something you would find on a barbie mobile...


Jason

 

esp. seince they like to break off for no real reason sometimes............I have to go see doc Phill again

 

I know nothing about these motors but is what you are saying is the nozzles are plastic? If so... that sucks! I see in your sig you have steel. Have you been down this road and what do they look like? Anyway to safeguard your motor for just in case?? That sucks!

 

Is this also a problem on the earlier 12V motors?

 

I doubt you have anything to worry about. Statistically you are golden with a 12 or 24 valve. I have seen milages on both that will boggle the mind. Ebay-> 94 12 valve 427000 miles sold for almost $6000.00. The highest I have actually seen with my eyes on a 24 was 323000 on Ebay and it was a 99.

 

All I can sugest is when changing the oil (and this is hard to do cause there is a raised lip around the oil plug hole on the inside) is stick your finger or wire hook up there and see if you can pull anything to you from the floor of the oil pan....or if you find little green tubes in the oil with your oil change you have problems.
Yes, I now have real live STEEL ones from way to close of a incounter with 4 of mine.
Like said you probly have no danger,,just a select few of us were nominated for this disaster,,your odds go up a little if you crank counter is at the rear rather then the front.........thats why it was moved to front. This info I pumped from the teck dude at Cummins N.W. in Renton.