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-   -   Can you identify this lift pump? (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/24-valve-engine-drivetrain-89/can-you-identify-lift-pump-315776/)

hallio217 12-19-2013 02:41 PM

Can you identify this lift pump?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Newbie here, but I did my research before buying the truck. Just bought a 2000 24V on Sunday. 166,000 miles, not the 53 block, original (I think) VP44, but the lift pump is aftermarket. It is weak however (8 psi at idle 0 at WOT) so I plan on replacing it ASAP.

I'm just curious, anyone know what it is?

Sorry about the bad picture, hopefully you can get a rough idea.

Thanks in advance

patdaly 12-19-2013 05:13 PM

You have been victimized by Dodge.

Your pump is now in the tank........

hallio217 12-19-2013 08:30 PM

Ahh bummer! I just ordered the FRRP!

I will start to read up on what to do with pump in tank. Is it possible to just install the FRRP where the lift pump should be and it will add to the fuel pressure? Or would it be fighting the weak lift pump in the tank?

patdaly 12-20-2013 09:07 AM


Originally Posted by hallio217 (Post 3216802)
Ahh bummer! I just ordered the FRRP!

I will start to read up on what to do with pump in tank. Is it possible to just install the FRRP where the lift pump should be and it will add to the fuel pressure? Or would it be fighting the weak lift pump in the tank?

Personally I think it will only be fighting the in tank pump. I know the in tank pump has it's proponents, but I changed several back after having to replace the stupid in tank pump.

You can either get an older module, remove the pump from the module you have and replace with rubber hose, or add a draw straw, I always went back to the older modules, but they used to be cheap on fleabay.......

SIXSLUG 12-20-2013 10:35 AM

Redlinear, a member on here has the part you need for a lot less than you will pay anywhere else....

You can't draw fuel the the intank pump, you can add an after market draw straw and disconnect the intank pump wire or just get the original sender/pick up basket part, which is what I did and hook everything back up like stock. That way you retain the fuel level sender.

Beatle 12-22-2013 06:39 AM

I have had the intake pump now for seven years and a pusher pump that was a Holley but had problems with holley. I mounted the FRRP on the rail and made my own mounting kit. You will have to get a few fittings to make it work and cut of the plug on the pump. I have a steady 19 psi and 15 psi at WOT. If the intake pump fails I will pull down the tank and put a draw straw V in the old tank module but the intake pumps do last. I also have a coupling so I can bypass the FRRP in case it fails.

hallio217 12-22-2013 10:18 PM

Thank you for the responses! Beatle, good to know that the in take pump has been reliable, I think the original owner ('00-'07) had Dodge do the installation, so the pump must be going on 7 years old. Is the "in tank pump" operated by the ECM or does it just have a constant 12V supplied to it directly from the battery? Can you elaborate: "cut of the plug on the pump"

patdaly 12-23-2013 08:45 AM


Originally Posted by hallio217 (Post 3217296)
Is the "in tank pump" operated by the ECM or does it just have a constant 12V supplied to it directly from the battery? Can you elaborate: "cut of the plug on the pump"

It is operated just as the original was, from the PCM. Dodge sends a harness that plugs into the original wiring harness up at the engine and runs back to the tank module.

hallio217 12-25-2013 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by patdaly (Post 3217338)
It is operated just as the original was, from the PCM. Dodge sends a harness that plugs into the original wiring harness up at the engine and runs back to the tank module.

Got it, thank you. This guy has 5 videos showing the process of replacing the in tank pump, really helpful!

SIXSLUG 12-25-2013 03:44 PM

I'd still get a guage or low pressure light on it.

My intank went from 11 psi down to 5 in three years. FASS now with 16 psi at idle and won't go below 10 wide open.

FASS = $450

VP= $1300 for part....

hallio217 12-25-2013 11:23 PM


Originally Posted by SIXSLUG (Post 3217736)
I'd still get a guage or low pressure light on it.

My intank went from 11 psi down to 5 in three years. FASS now with 16 psi at idle and won't go below 10 wide open.

FASS = $450

VP= $1300 for part....

I do plan on getting a gauge.
Did you replace the intank with the FASS or is the intank pump still there?

SIXSLUG 12-26-2013 11:48 AM

Intank out, old style pick up tube/ fuel gauge sender unit installed, FASS on bed frame under fender forward of driver's rear wheel...

hallio217 12-29-2013 12:25 AM

My plan is to install the FRRP where the original lift pump should be (near the block). I will unplug and remove the in tank pump and make sure the original fuel line reaches the bottom of the tank. Any objections to this?

hallio217 01-07-2014 08:51 PM

Installation is a success! I did something a little different and I am happy with it so far. FRRP mounted in the stock location off the engine block. I wired the in-tank pump to a switch. I got read 28psi at idle with both pumps running. I turned it down to 25 psi with both running and with the rear lift pump switched off, the FRRP still produces 12 psi.


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