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-   -   Block heater (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/24-valve-engine-drivetrain-89/block-heater-221562/)

darkoc1 Oct 28, 2008 01:56 PM

Block heater
 
Ok, does anyone know how hard it is to replace the cord for the block heater. I plug my truck in and nothing happens. I think that the cord or the element inside is bad. What is the cost also if anyone knows.

thumper549 Oct 28, 2008 02:20 PM

pretty simple follow the cord till you get to the end...Is more like the element is burnt out. leave cap on rad. (cold 0f course ) have new one on hand proceed.
As a side PT I will put a dab of antisize on anything I want to get off again.
I have not priced one in awhile

darkoc1 Oct 28, 2008 02:36 PM

Thank you, i will be getting one this week and hopefully fixing the problem.

nitrousn Oct 28, 2008 03:41 PM

Most common place to fail is the cord right at the plug. I test the cord and replace lots of plug ends. You can get one from a hardware store for a couple bucks. Ohm it between the spades. If open cut off the end and ohm the wire. If you get a reading with little to no resistance the rest of the cord and element should be good. Works about 90 percent of the time on any heater or model car.

Fueling around Oct 28, 2008 04:06 PM


Originally Posted by nitrousn (Post 2259480)
Most common place to fail is the cord right at the plug. I test the cord and replace lots of plug ends. You can get one from a hardware store for a couple bucks. Ohm it between the spades. If open cut off the end and ohm the wire. If you get a reading with little to no resistance the rest of the cord and element should be good. Works about 90 percent of the time on any heater or model car.

I had to do that to the mommy van after wifey tried to drive off without unplugging....
I've seen a couple people driving down the road with a cord trailing

Replacements cords are about $15 and easy to change. I don't use anti-sieze on electrical components due to the metal particles. A dab of silicone grease (not RTV) works, too.


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