Angle of descent before motor spits oil?
09-21-2004, 11:53 PM
#1
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Angle of descent before motor spits oil?
I read before that the Cummins doesnt like to go down steep hills or the engine will spit out a lot of oil from the vent tube. I have some wood I'm trying to get to on my property with my truck but some of the trails are kinda steep. Does anyone know what is the steepest descent you can make and or a good way to stop it from happening all together?
09-22-2004, 12:20 AM
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http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2002/09-002-02.htm:
***********************************************
TSB 09-002-02
Crankcase Breather Overflow
Advertisement
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: March 11, 2002
Models: 1998-2002 (BR) Ram Truck
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 1998 - 2002 (BR) RAM TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH THE 24-VALVE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE BUILT AFTER MARCH 27, 1998 (ESN 56443872).
Symptom/Condition:
Owners of 1998 - 2002 (BR) Ram Trucks equipped with the 24-valve Cummins diesel engine may experience engine oil overflow from the front crankcase breather when the vehicle is operated off-road on an extreme downhill grade (37.5% or 22° slope/grade). Operation of this type for extended periods of time can cause enough engine oil depletion to damage the engine. A kit containing all components necessary to eliminate the oil overflow has been made available. If the condition exists, perform the repair.
Parts Required:
Qty. Part No. Description
1 05093017AA Kit, breather
Repair Procedure:
NOTE: REFER TO THE SERVICE MANUAL THAT 1S SPECIFIC TO THE VEHICLE ON WHICH YOU ARE WORKING. (REFERENCES IN THE PROCEDURE BELOW ARE TO SECTIONS WITHIN THE 2000 (BR) RAM TRUCK SERVICE MANUAL (PUBLICATION # 81-370-0008).
1. Open the hood.
NOTE: IN THE INTEREST OF CUSTOMER SATISFACTION, RECORD SET RADIO STATIONS AND REPROGRAM WHEN PROCEDURE IS COMPLETED.
2. Disconnect both negative battery cables.
3. Remove the air intake connector.
4. Remove the charge air cooler duct.
5. Remove the washer bottle.
6. Remove the fan shroud and viscous fan. (Section 7).
7. Remove the crankcase breather assembly and discard.
8. Remove the fuel filter/water separator assembly. (Section 14).
9. Remove the VP44 fuel injection pump, (Section 14).
10. Remove the CM551 engine control module.
11. Remove the mounting bolt that secures the fuel line to the tappet cover.
12. Disconnect and remove the fuel line "T" fitting and mounting bracket.
13. Remove the tappet cover mounting bolts and side cover.
14. Install new tappet cover with breather tube. Torque bolts to 24 N-m (17 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: BREATHER TUBE SHOULD BE ROUTED DOWN, BEHIND THE STARTER AND AWAY FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL.
15. Reconnect and install fuel line "T" fitting and mounting bracket.
16. Install the mounting bell that secures the fuel line to the tappet cover.
17. Install the engine controller.
18. Install the fuel pump. (Section 14).
19. Install the fuel filter/water separator assembly. (Section 14).
20. Install the replacement access plug on the front of the gear cover.
21. Install the fan shroud and viscous fan. (Section 7).
22. Install the washer bottle.
23. Install the charge air cooler duct.
24. Install the air intake connector.
25. Reconnect both negative battery cables.
26. Start the engine and check for leaks.
27. Close the hood and reprogram the radio (if necessary).
Policy: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
Time Allowance:
Labor Operation No: 09-85-05-91. Install New Breather Kit ....................3.2 Hrs.
Failure Code: P8 - New Part
************************************************
***********************************************
TSB 09-002-02
Crankcase Breather Overflow
Advertisement
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: March 11, 2002
Models: 1998-2002 (BR) Ram Truck
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 1998 - 2002 (BR) RAM TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH THE 24-VALVE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE BUILT AFTER MARCH 27, 1998 (ESN 56443872).
Symptom/Condition:
Owners of 1998 - 2002 (BR) Ram Trucks equipped with the 24-valve Cummins diesel engine may experience engine oil overflow from the front crankcase breather when the vehicle is operated off-road on an extreme downhill grade (37.5% or 22° slope/grade). Operation of this type for extended periods of time can cause enough engine oil depletion to damage the engine. A kit containing all components necessary to eliminate the oil overflow has been made available. If the condition exists, perform the repair.
Parts Required:
Qty. Part No. Description
1 05093017AA Kit, breather
Repair Procedure:
NOTE: REFER TO THE SERVICE MANUAL THAT 1S SPECIFIC TO THE VEHICLE ON WHICH YOU ARE WORKING. (REFERENCES IN THE PROCEDURE BELOW ARE TO SECTIONS WITHIN THE 2000 (BR) RAM TRUCK SERVICE MANUAL (PUBLICATION # 81-370-0008).
1. Open the hood.
NOTE: IN THE INTEREST OF CUSTOMER SATISFACTION, RECORD SET RADIO STATIONS AND REPROGRAM WHEN PROCEDURE IS COMPLETED.
2. Disconnect both negative battery cables.
3. Remove the air intake connector.
4. Remove the charge air cooler duct.
5. Remove the washer bottle.
6. Remove the fan shroud and viscous fan. (Section 7).
7. Remove the crankcase breather assembly and discard.
8. Remove the fuel filter/water separator assembly. (Section 14).
9. Remove the VP44 fuel injection pump, (Section 14).
10. Remove the CM551 engine control module.
11. Remove the mounting bolt that secures the fuel line to the tappet cover.
12. Disconnect and remove the fuel line "T" fitting and mounting bracket.
13. Remove the tappet cover mounting bolts and side cover.
14. Install new tappet cover with breather tube. Torque bolts to 24 N-m (17 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: BREATHER TUBE SHOULD BE ROUTED DOWN, BEHIND THE STARTER AND AWAY FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL.
15. Reconnect and install fuel line "T" fitting and mounting bracket.
16. Install the mounting bell that secures the fuel line to the tappet cover.
17. Install the engine controller.
18. Install the fuel pump. (Section 14).
19. Install the fuel filter/water separator assembly. (Section 14).
20. Install the replacement access plug on the front of the gear cover.
21. Install the fan shroud and viscous fan. (Section 7).
22. Install the washer bottle.
23. Install the charge air cooler duct.
24. Install the air intake connector.
25. Reconnect both negative battery cables.
26. Start the engine and check for leaks.
27. Close the hood and reprogram the radio (if necessary).
Policy: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
Time Allowance:
Labor Operation No: 09-85-05-91. Install New Breather Kit ....................3.2 Hrs.
Failure Code: P8 - New Part
************************************************
09-22-2004, 01:57 AM
#5
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One problem with that. All it does is move the bottle to the back of the engine, over the front diff. I went to have it done on mine, and the mechanic told me it was a waste of time, because with the kit installed you loose oil going up hill instead of down hill. Needless to say, I didn't get it done.
09-22-2004, 08:55 AM
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I've got a idea...
Look at a snowmobile and you will see the answer. Snowmobiles are made to be rolled over and not to leak fuel. It all in how the vent is routed. If the nose of the truck is going downhill you need the vent routed uphill...
I'm thinking if you route from the current location over the top of the intake and the drop over the back of the engine (by the bell housing) it might not be able drain oil out because the vent is still highier at the back of the engine on a down hill angles.
I'm going to build this some day... Using 3/4 inch copper pipe. This way it will stay wwarm in the winter and not freeze. It won't kink like a rubber hose. It will always drain out (to engine or ground depending on angle)
If you want you can still put you bottle back on the end of the copper to catch the little bit of run off!
Look at a snowmobile and you will see the answer. Snowmobiles are made to be rolled over and not to leak fuel. It all in how the vent is routed. If the nose of the truck is going downhill you need the vent routed uphill...
I'm thinking if you route from the current location over the top of the intake and the drop over the back of the engine (by the bell housing) it might not be able drain oil out because the vent is still highier at the back of the engine on a down hill angles.
I'm going to build this some day... Using 3/4 inch copper pipe. This way it will stay wwarm in the winter and not freeze. It won't kink like a rubber hose. It will always drain out (to engine or ground depending on angle)
If you want you can still put you bottle back on the end of the copper to catch the little bit of run off!
09-22-2004, 09:29 PM
#7
Registered User
Originally posted by firestorm
One problem with that. All it does is move the bottle to the back of the engine, over the front diff. I went to have it done on mine, and the mechanic told me it was a waste of time, because with the kit installed you loose oil going up hill instead of down hill. Needless to say, I didn't get it done.
One problem with that. All it does is move the bottle to the back of the engine, over the front diff. I went to have it done on mine, and the mechanic told me it was a waste of time, because with the kit installed you loose oil going up hill instead of down hill. Needless to say, I didn't get it done.
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09-22-2004, 09:44 PM
#8
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Originally posted by firestorm
One problem with that. All it does is move the bottle to the back of the engine, over the front diff. I went to have it done on mine, and the mechanic told me it was a waste of time, because with the kit installed you loose oil going up hill instead of down hill. Needless to say, I didn't get it done.
One problem with that. All it does is move the bottle to the back of the engine, over the front diff. I went to have it done on mine, and the mechanic told me it was a waste of time, because with the kit installed you loose oil going up hill instead of down hill. Needless to say, I didn't get it done.
09-22-2004, 09:57 PM
#9
Registered User
Simply perform the TSB installing the breather at the rear of the engine, but also leave the front breather active. Then take a cork and plug off one breather or the other, depending whether you are going uphill or downhill. 
09-23-2004, 12:01 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally posted by torquefan
Simply perform the TSB installing the breather at the rear of the engine, but also leave the front breather active. Then take a cork and plug off one breather or the other, depending whether you are going uphill or downhill.
Simply perform the TSB installing the breather at the rear of the engine, but also leave the front breather active. Then take a cork and plug off one breather or the other, depending whether you are going uphill or downhill.
Good idea.
I was thinking after reading Dr. Evil's that I would just back down everything.This has got to be bad enough to give the idot award to whoever let this get past the drawing board. You cant drive your vehicle down hill because the oil will fall out? So really, what is the new valve cover do that stops this? Is it that the new vent in the middle of the cover? I didnt read where you get ride of the existing vent. And I dont understand why you have to tear apart the motor to put on a new valve cover.
09-23-2004, 07:55 AM
#11
Registered User
You might try looking at Ericbu12's link in the thread listed below.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=30368
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=30368
09-23-2004, 08:12 AM
#12
Registered User
the reason oil comes out the breather going down hill is this. the oil in the pan rolls foreward and the gears in the front of the motor become emmersed in oil. this causes the oil to be lifted by the gears to the vent area and will cause excess oil to be released out the vent. your motor wont do this going up hill. i like the relocated vent idea. you could still install a resivoir if you did not want oil on the garage floor.
