i'm fustrated right now so i'm most likely to jump around alittle. i found while doing my brakes that i had a bad ball joint(upper pass side) so i replaced it, i also found i had a bad driver side inner tie rod, replaced it. i spent 2 hours getting the alignment dead nuts on, and i still have a pull to the right and road noise. no i have OE sized tires in the front, they are BF goodrich Commercial T/A. at work i have one of those fancy assed courgi road force varience machine. it tell you where to line the tire on the rim and tell you how much turning for the wheel and tire will produce on your vehicle. so did the road force stuff and balance, put them back on and still a pull. so when i'm driving down the road it pulls to the right and make road noise, wheni hold it to the left just past going straight my road noise goes away. i was thinkin wheelbearing at first but there is no way it would be all the time or at xx MPH. i'm stumped guys i need help this is drive me crazy. i have a 00 dodge ram 3500 2wd 5 spd. Ind. front suspension

 

Gonna sound nuts here but have you checked tire pressure?
A) one tire down 10-15 psi will cause a pull.
B) also if the rear brakes are out of adjustment or you have a sticky wheel cyl or siezed park prake cable it will cause a pull when brakes are applied.
C) also a siezed/frozen caliper on the left will cause a pull to the right
D) I've seen the flex lines callapse internally and cause one caliper to not work causing a pull to the opposite side

Opps just re-read your post and realized your pull is not affected by brakes, so if I read right your front alignment is "dead nuts on" so check your rear end. broken center bolt on the rear springs will allow the rear diff to shift and allow the truck to "dog track" and you will have to turn the wheel to keep the truck going straight. just use a tape measure to check the distance between the front and rear wheels. Compare the readings between the pass and drv side, they should be the same.

 

its not the rear end i gave it a good look over before the alignment. i need rear brakes, but they arnt out of adjust. tire pressure is at 80psi in all 6 tires. i had a friend say wheel bearings but the pull is opposite of how the noises are being made, the real kicker is the hub assmb. are $366 cant afford to get 1 let alone 2 to do the job right.and if i had the money laying around my truck wouldnt be stock

 

Did you measure from side to side? cause most times you cannot "see" that its out! also just a point unless your truck is loaded all the time 80psi is too much!! no matter what the inside of your door says. inner door reccommended PSI is what they reccommend with full pay load, your truck will ride like crap/ and wear out ball joints faster than you can install em, as all the shock of the tire is(during a bounce) transmitted thru the ball joint instead of being asorbed in the tire. The center of your tires will be worn out long before the rest of the tire is. I run my truck granted its a 2500 4x4 as a courier and in a reqular day I move likely 3-5000lbs, I run 50psi, and I monitor for abnormal tire wear.

bearing noise is usually shows up when turning and it will be the wheel that is on the outside of the turn (where all the weight is transfered to), usually jacking up the truck and spinning the wheel by hand you should hear/feel it, if the bearing is causing the pull you would definately have a hard time spinning the wheel by hand.
also could be a sticky caliper, brakes not releasing on one wheel/ jack it up spin the wheels if they roll free go hit the brakes and re-check for free spinning.

 

i did the alignment with a hunter 7k or 9k or something like that alignment machine. ad for tire pressure i've always ran my tire are what the tires says and never had an issue with it. and i just did the brakes and rechecked them before the alignment and my noise is the opposite of what a wheelbearing noise would be. the truck pull right and when i turn the wheel slightly more that what it takes to go straight the noise disappears. now i had a friend still say wheel bearing. i think it is to, but i want to exhaust any other ideas before i sink myself even farther in debt. if i'm goona get bearing i'm goona get both the front and do it.

 

Just curious are you a mechanic? I'm guessing not (no insult intended) because of the answers you post. there are ways to correct for a pull, you may have to put it out of spec to correct for certain pulling corrections and still not cause tire wear to occur. also have you tried swapping your tires from left to right to see if the pull goes to the other side?

As for tire pressure if you read the MAX tire pressure off the tire and if the max is 80psi you are actually running in excess of that, as the tire pressure grows like 10psi or more depending on number of miles driven/and temp, Most people fall into that trap thinking that it is the proper tire pressure to run.(It's not) That number is the number to NOT exceed, and it also lists maximum loads as well. as mentioned before too much pressure causes the center of the tire to wear out and to have too small a contact patch resulting in longer braking distances. not to mention excessive road shock transmitted to the suspension components... ie, ball joints/wheel bearings/ shocks etc. but then you've never had any problems. Most all vehs I have checked show over inflated tires
I'm trying to help give you ideas of things to check, you never said what the results were. I'll list all the things I would check before throwing parts at it

1. jack front up, spin wheels see if they spin free/ or make noise/rough
2. check for loose wheel bearings (grab top & bottom of wheel and pull and push) testing the wheel bearings by method 1 & 2 should identify a bad wheel bearing.(most of the time)
3. spin wheels again after appling brakes to eliminate a sticky caliper.
4. rotate front tires left to right and road test to see if pull changes sides. also note tread depth it should be equal across the tire, if worn on a taper it will cause a pull !(are your tires new?)
5. measure wheelbase and compare left and right sides.
6. lastly drop the tire pressure down to even 60psi and take your truck for a ride, lower pressure will asorb the road shock and over time pay off in the long run.

any chance you could post the results/adjustments that were made from the alignment?
I think you do have a bad bearing BUT the bearing is not causing the pull, something else is, once the pull issue is resolved, I think the bearing noise will appear only when you are making a turn.

My post is intended to help but unless you systematically eliminate things in a logical manner, you will fustrate your self and start throwing, like you say good money that you dont have to waste.

 

the tire pressue listed on the side is max COLD pressure and i set them cold. i am a mechanic, but i'm a truck mechanic. we dont have any lsa type stuff on our trucks. i check the brakes before the alignment i did the wiggle test to to see if the balljoints and wheel bearings and steering stuff is ok, i didnt get any wiggle out of them. The tire have less than 2000 miles on them. i'll see if i can find my number for the alignment. i my thrust angle is 1* off that would push the truck left... assuming it was high enough to affect anything.

 

what were your actual alignment specs, you need around a negative .5 degree caster split in order to compensate for the road crown, without that, you may be in spec but the vehicle will still pull right due to the natural crown of the road. if thats fine try swapping the front tires from side to side and see if it pulls left or does the same, if it pulls left you've got a radial pull problem, if it still pulls right, swap the rear tires and see if that changes anything. let us know what you find. also I wouldnt run those guys at 80 psi unless your towing a load, drop em down to 60-65 ish I think thats what it says on the door and it should be fine.

 

i have the road crown put in on caster and i already swapped the tires. i'm 99 percent sure it a bad bearing i just thing one is worse that the other thus i get a pull and the noise(which sounds like tire noise but bearings sound just like it)