Gear splitters;

http://www.usgear.com/dual_range.htm

http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html

Thanks for the links...

Im new to this idea of splitting in a pickup... After looking over these sites im a little unsure of how the shifting sequence works...


I drive a peterbilt with a 13-speed where you can split high range (6-9). Bear with me on my crude termonology...

To go from standard 6 to 6H you flip the swith up and let off the accelerator pedal... Then to go to starndard 7, flip the swith back down, let off accelerator and shift to 7... and so on.

With this Usgear conversion... lets say im pulling something so I engage the under range (and leave it there)... Start in 1st, flash clutch to get to 2L, Shift into standard 2nd, flash clutch to get to 3L, etc... Do I have this sequence correct?

OR

Do you toggle between over and under (like the peterbilt): standard 1st, toggle to 1H, toggle to low and shift to 2nd, toggle to 2H?

Thanks

Yeah these are a little weird. The two work differently from what I understand.

US Gear:

Here is an quote from the site:

Shifting while driving or ‘shifting on the fly’ is a breeze! While the vehicle is moving and the driveline under a load, you simply push the gearshift-mounted button for automatics or pull the button mounted on the floor shift arm of the standard transmission and wait two seconds while the Dual Range loads the next gear. With the automatic transmission, you simply lift your foot quickly to about half-throttle and then back down again, you’ll feel the next gear engage. On standard transmissions, after you push the button (waiting a couple of seconds), all that is needed is a quick, slight depression of the clutch to allow the Dual Range to shift into the next desired gear. The quick shifts with this unit will keep your horsepower and torque loss to an absolute minimum. Check the photos for mounting the electronics

Gear Vendors:

Another quote:

Let's cover the difference between a GEAR VENDORS and competing products for automatic transmission equipped vehicles (manual customers should read this but understand that outside of racing we do recommend you use your clutch when shifting). All other brands of auxiliary transmissions are simply dual ranges. They are meant to be put in low range when you are towing and high range when you are not. But the problem is that your vehicle has too few gears. Simply making your gears all lower or taller still leaves you with the same gap between each gear. So you could actually go slower with a dual range that you do now. You could shift these products while moving (one of them you need to go to neutral before you can shift and the other has no synchros but will perform a non-synchronized shift if you let off the gas), but these products are simply not designed to shift behind automatic transmissions.

The GEAR VENDORS, on the other hand, is built like an automatic. It has the expensive and reliable reaction planetary system, which is why it's compact and cylindrical in shape like your automatic. The GEAR VENDORS is designed to shift under any and all throttle conditions continuously, so when you need power you can go up or down just half a gear at a time (GearSplitting). Sure the GEAR VENDORS has always been the most expensive, but it also offers far greater performance and quality


It sounds like to me that the Gear Vendors is easier to split every gear. The US Gear basically gives you two different sets of transmission ratios, or two different rear end ratios. I guess it depends on how you look at it.

There are probably a few guys on here that have one or the other or have some experience with them. Maybe one of them will chime in and let you know what they think.

Michael

Some people with 24v's have reported better mileage empty and towing with 4.10's.........The best brake specific fuel consumption ratio on the 24v's is at about 2000 rpm..........the 12v's were around 1650 rpm.........to acheive a cruising rpm that is well out of your ideal BSFC ratio is often counter productive to getting better mileage.........This is why we often hear of 24v 4.10 equipped auto trucks getting better mileage compared to the 3.54 trucks - especially when towing..........However, 4.10's with a 6 spd lets the typical highway cruising rpm slip a little over 2000 rpm and out of the ideal BSFC ratio rpm........end of story? - Hardly.......the load put against that motor at a given rpm plays a large factor too in mileage and this varies so much from truck to truck and the intended application that it can be difficult to accurately compare.

IMO, if you plan on hauling 20,000 lbs frequently, then 4.10's are for you........You will appreciate the better slow speed manuverability, improved clutch life and lower temps in the NV 5600............IMO, it is not enough difference in mileage to justify the 3.54's for this application........there are more reasons why you should have 4.10's over why you should have 3.54's..........besides, having a dirty air charge temp sensor (as well as many other anomalies with these 24v's) will have as much of an impact on mileage as the wrong gear ratio, as many of us here have discovered!:rolleyes:

A US Gear splitter would be cool with any rear end ratio!:cool:

I cannot coment on the US Gear, but I had a truck with the Gear Vendors, all I could do when driving that truck was:D :D :D :D . They are awsome, I pounded the "life" out of that unit (they told me I could not break it) and I never was able to. The Chevy it was in was another story!!:rolleyes: I think it was about 3200 installed, and worth every penny IMO.

Keep the 4:10's!!

i dont know whats available tire wise for the dual wheeled trucks. point is you could go to a taller tire and get the desired change without a gear swap.

Ive been putting a lot of thought into this gear splitter. After looking over the ratios posted on these sights, and taking into account some of the opinions posted here--- the 4.10s are already slow enough, even for pulling 18K lbs (Dad has done it for years with smaller trucks) ==> No need for and underdrive. And the only overdrive gear I could see getting a lot of use would be 6 High on the freeway.

I have no doubt that I would be all smiles with the splitter on the truck, but I have a real hard time justifying 3500 bucks for an extra half a gear.

And the money I would lose on a trade at this point is rediculous. I think im going to be better off sticking with what Ive got for now.

I appreciate ALL the opinions-- it has been very helpful. If you guys have more I would still like to hear about it.

Like nitrousn said--Taller tires??

I drive in Ozarks - MO/AR
20+5dove tail goosneck 20 of large round bails of hay trailer GW 25,000 Lb, + when wet may be around 28,000.
Ford 1ton 3.55 PSD 4AOD 1997 4WD on the inclunes which are 20-35% has to go 1st and had to go to low4x many times as well not to burne out the auto
Dodge 1 ton Cummins 3.55 5speed does tow in first and second without taking a lick.

Remeber this is in the Ozarks mountains around Ga9inesville MO, so on flats, your 3.55 with much less weight even on a bumper pull should do fine.
d

maybe im going to over simplify things here but if I were you I would simply put some Nitto 305-70-16's on the truck, gets you bigger tires AND ABOUT a 392 gearing for the price of tires, which you will need to buy anyway. Remember, these things are heavy and you will like the extra rubber on the ground while doing field work. (The reason for using Nitto's is they are about the only ones I have found that are load range E in that size) I have the 354's and WISH i had the 410's, I have had approx 40K behind my truck in fields and on the road, the 354's are awful fast for field work EVEN in creaper gear. Another thing you might want to consider is tying your rear axle (Traction bars) to the frame to prevent axel wrap, I had to pull above weight in 4x4 on hard dry road because of this.

DuaneWKKC

EDIT: Duh i just noticed that you have a 1 ton.... 305 70's wouldnt help sorry. ALSO

This AINT NO FORD..... YOU WONT HAVE A POWER PROBLEM!!!!!

I drive in Ozarks - MO/AR
20+5dove tail goosneck 20 of large round bails of hay trailer GW 25,000 Lb, + when wet may be around 28,000.
Ford 1ton 3.55 PSD 4AOD 1997 4WD on the inclunes which are 20-35% has to go 1st and had to go to low4x many times as well not to burne out the auto
Dodge 1 ton Cummins 3.55 5speed does tow in first and second without taking a lick.

Remeber this is in the Ozarks mountains around Ga9inesville MO, so on flats, your 3.55 with much less weight even on a bumper pull should do fine.
d

I drive in Ozarks - MO/AR
20+5dove tail goosneck 20 of large round bails of hay trailer GW 25,000 Lb, + when wet may be around 28,000.
Ford 1ton 3.55 PSD 4AOD 1997 4WD on the inclunes which are 20-35% has to go 1st and had to go to low4x many times as well not to burne out the auto
Dodge 1 ton Cummins 3.55 5speed does tow in first and second without taking a lick.

Remeber this is in the Ozarks mountains around Gainesville MO, so on flats, your 3.55 with much less weight even on a bumper pull should do fine.
d

Hey Dan, I'm getting some serious deja vu from your last posts![eyecrazy] ;)