24 valve powerless
08-14-2018, 12:16 PM
#16
Registered User
Well, I just noticed the exhaust brake- are you sure it opens up completely if not applied?
The P-Pump from a 12V can be installed on a 24V, but you need new injection lines, a much beefier lift pump (or a stock 12V lift pump, a different cam to drive said lift pump) and a lot of patience to sort out electronics.
Maybe you damaged the wiring while r&r ing the map sensor? Or damaged the sensor while cleaning it?
The P-Pump from a 12V can be installed on a 24V, but you need new injection lines, a much beefier lift pump (or a stock 12V lift pump, a different cam to drive said lift pump) and a lot of patience to sort out electronics.
Maybe you damaged the wiring while r&r ing the map sensor? Or damaged the sensor while cleaning it?
08-14-2018, 05:34 PM
#17
Registered User
We will be taking it to a local performance shop tonight to actually look at a truck for me to buy and maybe con the guy into looking at ours 😂 it’s also a 24v my next question is non related but I have a 12v in my garage with half a million miles on bought it with 2 auto transmissions for $700 my question being can I take this heee p7100 housing and lines and put it on my 99 if the vp44 ever craps the bed again since we put a brand new one on it about 4 years ago and maybe 10,000 miles ago if that so could it be a bad pump we got it was a reman stock not a ho and it seemed to run better with a bad lift pump even before the new pump and air dog
08-15-2018, 10:05 AM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
08-15-2018, 10:07 AM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, I just noticed the exhaust brake- are you sure it opens up completely if not applied?
The P-Pump from a 12V can be installed on a 24V, but you need new injection lines, a much beefier lift pump (or a stock 12V lift pump, a different cam to drive said lift pump) and a lot of patience to sort out electronics.
Maybe you damaged the wiring while r&r ing the map sensor? Or damaged the sensor while cleaning it?
The P-Pump from a 12V can be installed on a 24V, but you need new injection lines, a much beefier lift pump (or a stock 12V lift pump, a different cam to drive said lift pump) and a lot of patience to sort out electronics.
Maybe you damaged the wiring while r&r ing the map sensor? Or damaged the sensor while cleaning it?
08-16-2018, 11:37 AM
#21
Registered User
Do you get codes?
Did you check for a boost leak?
A lot can be done without breaking the bank.
This forum tries to be helpful, but you need to answer the questions asked.
And punctuation, paragraphs and all the other tools to make a text readable do work on a smartphone.
08-18-2018, 07:33 PM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
No I didn’t get any codes. Yes I have checked my exhaust brake and it was opening all the way. I sprayed ether around all the hoses and the intercooler no sudden jump from the engine. But however lately it has been hard to get into gear especially first and third why I don’t know we put a new booster on it at the same time as the cam sensor could my trans have anything to do with it?
08-19-2018, 01:51 AM
#23
Registered User
OK, now it's getting better.
Ether will not work to find boost leaks. The intake has no vacuum to suck in the ether, and a lose hose clamp would actually act as a one way valve, the gap opening only under boost.
What booster?
Your trans may have other problems, but it can't "eat" the energy difference you feel without melting into a heap of slag in short order.
Ether will not work to find boost leaks. The intake has no vacuum to suck in the ether, and a lose hose clamp would actually act as a one way valve, the gap opening only under boost.
What booster?
Your trans may have other problems, but it can't "eat" the energy difference you feel without melting into a heap of slag in short order.
08-19-2018, 12:07 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
The booster I’m talking about is the one that goes to the slave cylender it’s sort of like a break booster that’s just what I call it. How would I check for leaks then? Also I popped off the cold air intake and looked into the turbo and found a huge slob of oil in the air side. Is this normal? I know none of our tractors do this could it be a bad seal not giving the turbo enough lube to spin fast enough. My dad has an 8.3 with a p7100 in our forage harvester and he used to blow the tube he had on to bypass the intercooler that was in the box truck it was out of quite frequently. He said one minute it was a cod chopping beast and another it couldn’t barely move itself. Could this be sort of the same issue it’s got me wondering.
08-20-2018, 02:04 AM
#26
Registered User
Well with that sludge in there- does the turbo still spin freely?
Boost leak tester: Get a PVC pipe endcap and a rubber seal that fit on the turbo inlet, drill hole and install a shrader valve into endcap,mount to turbo inlet.
Remove intake heater, install blocking plate (flat piece of aluminum with 4 holes ) - Now charge air system should be airtight. Apply about 15 psi through shrader valve, use soapy water to check for leaks.
Boost leak tester: Get a PVC pipe endcap and a rubber seal that fit on the turbo inlet, drill hole and install a shrader valve into endcap,mount to turbo inlet.
Remove intake heater, install blocking plate (flat piece of aluminum with 4 holes ) - Now charge air system should be airtight. Apply about 15 psi through shrader valve, use soapy water to check for leaks.
09-14-2018, 09:34 PM
#27
Registered User
I have a 99 dodge 3500 cummins. The truck had lost power before and we put a new lift pump and reman injection pump after the whole system when dead. It has a clean air filter and a banks exhaust brake . It has good fuel pressure and only builds 14 lbs of boost going anywhere floored. So my question is what do you think is wrong it just seems powerless even before with a bad stock lift pump it had more power than it currently does.
09-14-2018, 11:25 PM
#28
Registered User
When this happened to me,..it started gradually,.. and I finally didn't figure out what was up until it threw a code. It was the absolute pressure sensor (I hope I got the name right) on the drivers side of the motor.. This sensor has something to do with the computer knowing how much boost you need. Close to the back of the motor,..I think it's just under the manifold..if I recall correctly.. I changed that and it was like new again. I think that little sensor was over a hundred bucks but can't remember for sure. Unplug it, unscrew it, and put a new one in. You could probably see what it is doing if you have a scanner. But I didn't get that far before mine threw a code.
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