2002 24v Flood Rebuild
 

I got a rad 24 valve from Texas off of Copart. It was in a freshwater flood. The flood line is about an inch into the bottom of the cab. Almost entirely rust free, it has an AirDog, an almost brand new transmission (<20,000 miles), an edge juice, a sweet custom welded bed w/ air suspension and a few other mods that I haven't identified yet.

It doesn't appear that water went through the turbo, no evidence in the intake box and this is no surprise considering how much lower the water line is, there is no play in the turbo it is completely smooth. I hand turned the crankshaft pulley which was hard but not impossible, I like to think I rotated the engine through its full cycle at least twice with what I thought was even compression. Thankfully, it's a 56 block.

I want to fire this ***** up in the next few days and ideally I will do this without bending any rods or pushing water through my injectors. I'm looking for feedback as to other problem points I should be checking.

Once I get new batteries (the ones from 2017 are completely shot "NAPA Legend", less than 1V w/ multimeter) I plan to put the key to the start position to engage the lift pump and drain the diesel. I checked the trans dipstick and the engine oil dipstick and neither show any milkiness or evidence of water whatsoever. I want to drain the diff and replace the hubs. The whole front end looks like it needs to be redone but i'll worry about that once I make sure it runs.

Hope to take you all along on this little resto project journey I have started. I got the truck for a 2600$ bid, 600$ in fees, and 600$ to ship. I'll post some photos a little later.

First thing I would have done is drain oil out of engine, transmission, T-case and the axles.
Draining each into a clean bucket / pan, so I could inspect each for damage and / or water contamination.

I will be doing this at some point this week. Thanks for the reply Oliver

I'd also remove the hose from the intercooler to the intake, and look if there is water in the intercooler. Should not be, but could cost you an engine.

I already gave this one go and on the bottom passenger side the hose just wouldn’t budge even after loosening the clamp. Didn’t feel like ripping and tearing so I just pinched it a few times to try and make it slosh and I heard nothing. I may go for this again but for now I feel ok.

https://i.ibb.co/FXXmjyL/59813464216...D73-AAA9-C.jpg

Yesterday I pulled the passengers side front fender in an attempt to gain more clearance on the door that Copart unfortunately dented while transporting my truck on the forks. No go. Looks like i'll be buying new hinges and maybe a new door at some point.

This evening I got two new batteries in the truck and purchased 3 gals of Rotella T6 15w40. The edge attitude that came with the truck is letting me check DTCs. I'm getting P0230 and P1693. I'm tracing the fuel pump wires in the hopes I can hunt this one down. Strangely enough, there was a second brand new AirDog Raptor 4G in the bed of the truck when I bought it, along with a new fuel filter and sway bar link.

When I traced the lines back from the AirDog FP 100 to the battery, the hot running to the cabin fuse box had a blown 15 amp fuse.

I turned the key to the start position and found that the pump engaged with the blown fuse swapped.

I then turned the key and attempted to start. Nothing, no starter click. I can feel a short when I touch the truck. Attached are pictures of all damage/disconnected wiring. Not totally sure what's what yet. The yellow cable in the first pic was zipped tied up and tucked down towards the wheel well. Not sure if a different starter wire was run?
https://i.ibb.co/gW5cfsn/IMG-2495.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/mH1KMP6/IMG-2494.jpg
Same error codes listed in previous post. Companion fault code and fuel pump relay.
https://i.ibb.co/rwPjSHj/IMG-2496.jpg
Not sure what i'm looking at here.
https://i.ibb.co/PZwY5V7/IMG-2497.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/0DTQkty/IMG-2498.jpg
Another line from the Edge Attitude.
https://i.ibb.co/r5SPVP3/IMG-2499.jpg
From below the fuse box. I can't find a companion cable. Old fuel pump wiring?

I'm scanning over some wiring diagrams, but especially considering the presence of the Edge Attitude wiring i'm feeling pretty lost at the moment. Hoping to get a better idea as the week progresses.

https://i.ibb.co/MNSXYmT/IMG-2500.jpg
Transmission wiring. I don't even know.
https://i.ibb.co/gJQjhdR/IMG-2501.jpg
Severed abs wiring.

I wanted to add, the transmission is a Jasper with a low stall stator and a triple disc torque converter "rated to 1200 ft/lbs", still under warranty for another 60k miles/until august 2020.

OK,
first pic looks like a pyro probe to me -goes into exhaust manifold

2nd and 3rd look like a big fuse like used by the hifi crowd, maybe you've got a big amplifier stashed away somewhere

Transmission wiring looks like park/neutral safety switch to me- truck will not start unless the wire is grounded -but might also be a reverse light switch.

HTH

Big thanks for the reply AlpineRam. I’ll be taking another look at these after work today. It would be awesome if it was just as simple as needing to fix the neutral safety switch.

Alpine beat me to that one...I'll add that for more useful EGT readings, you'll want the probe positioned before the turbo, but this involves making absolutely certain no debris from drilling or threading enters the turbo...[coffee]...Ben

Once I get the truck running i'll drill and thread new holes for the intake side probe, making sure to tape off the turbine/compressor wheel. Thanks for the feedback Fordzilla!

Drill the manifold while truck is at idle, that positive air pressure keeps anything from falling down the hole ;) Just be very wary of moving parts ;)