2001, fuel pressure gauge recomendations
 

I would like to put a fuel pressure gauge on my 2001 5.9. Will a 0-15psi work or do I need a higher pressure gauge. It's all stock and I don't see hot rodding it in the future.

Snubber?
Do some of you guys run both, an electric fuel gauge in the cab and a manual fuel gauge at the engine?
Thank You!

A stock lift pump tops out at 15-16psi. I'd recommend getting a 0-30 since even if you stay stock, you'll probably end up upgrading the fuel system for reliability in the future.

You definitely want a snubber whether you go electric or mechanical. I use a grease gun hose from my tapped VP44 inlet port.

I have an older Westach 0-16 electric. Been there for 9 years and 80,000 miles - same sender (with snubber). I have my pressure regulator set to about 15 lbs (have upgraded my fuel system) and on cold mornings, it pegs the gauge - probably just over 16 lbs in reality. Most of the time it sits at 14-15 lbs.

I also have a mechanical 0-30 Isspro, but use it temporarily on the test port in the engine compartment to confirm pressure only. If the Westach dies, I may put the Isspro mechanical in the cab and not worry about it. It would match my other gauges that way too.

So bottom line - A 0-15 will be just a tad shy of what you really want - however, most stock lift pumps (Carter POS) can't hardly get to 15 new so it may be fine for now... until you upgrade. Keep in mind tho, with a 30lb gauge - you won't use the top 10lbs (stock or upgraded). If your pressure gets even close to 20, you should be concerned. But with a 0-30 gauge, the needle will ride in the sweet spot (center) and that is a nice.

Lots of ramblings - hope that makes sense.

Thanks guys!!

Where do you get a snubber?

Do you drill the banjo bolt to accept 1/8" pipe?

I misspoke earlier... I don't use a snubber... I use a brass needle valve at the end of a high-pressure hose (like those on the right side of attached pic) which is T'd into the fuel line itself just after the fuel filter (and before the VP44). The pressure sender is on the other end of the high pressure hose. I turn the valve down to almost closed to protect the sender from the pulses. Has worked perfectly for years.

As far as banjo bolts... I got rid of all of mine years ago after wasting money on the "big banjo bolt" kit and replaced with AN fittings and new 3/8" fuel line. You can get entire plug-n-play fuel line kits from most reputable diesel shops (online or otherwise) to make it simple for < $150. Or you can build them from scratch. That's what I did.

I agree with the suggestion to go with a 0-30 psi gauge with a snubber to keep the gauge needle from bouncing around unnecessarily...

go to genosgarage.com and get cummins banjo snubber BF-CBS010 for $19.95 next to autozone for a oil pressure gauge installation kit, get the copper line one for $11. last, the gauge. if you want the best get a 0-30 psi glycerin filled gauge from ww granger for $16 if you want expensive pretty pick a 0-30 gauge that you like

Thank You very much! I'll look thru Graingers!

Geno's and Vulcan will have everything you need too.

build your own inexpensive fuel pressure guage
 

The vp44 does not work well over 19 psi,weird things happen.I blocked the bypass on my stock intank pump,achieving 23 psi and the IP became really hot and had hard starting issues.The grease gun hose works really good[3700 psi hose]it,s cheap and threads together,you can run it right into the truck,you will need an inline valve to stop the excessive needle vibration.I wrote a detailed description on how to do it in the first heading easy and interesting fix,s of our forum.

There is zero factual data which suggests or indicates that the VP has a high pressure limit. In saying that, we DO know that there is a low pressure range, so at this point its just common consensus that anything over 20 psi to the VP is unnecessary.....as long as you're able achieve 15(ish) psi at WOT.

I think you had other underlying issues with your VP given the descriptions you gave in another post. Sounds like to me that the computer experienced to many heat cycles and was on its way out. By the way, what were your using to determine that the VP's temp actually increased? Are you sure that by blocking the bypass, you didn't simply cause a over-recirculation issue from the module sump?

Katoom,Thanks again for your posts,You have helped confirmed the dreaded heat cycle computer issue. I just discovered the thread titled, WHO,S GOT A MECHANICAL BELT DRIVEN LIFT PUMP,the 50 plus posts are a must to read for anyone who is living life with a vp44.This fickle devise is like marriage,you had better pay attention to her and find ways to please her or she,s going to dump you,leave you when you least expect it and the divorce is going to cost. My last VP relationship only lasted 30 months.