Tsutter

I have a 2000 CTD with the edge juice & a fass fuel system. I have to crank forever to get it to start when it is warm. Anybody got any ideas about where to start. I'm not getting any codes when I do the 3 key thing.

BigIron70

After shutting the engine off and the lift pump stops running, the fuel supply pressure should drop rapidly back to -0-psi. With a hard start concern, fuel pressure takes a long time (10+ seconds) to drop back to -0-psi. The fuel pressure may drop down in 'steps'. These symptoms indicate an internal injection pump problem. If the engine starts better with the lift pump disconnected, replace the injection pump. Another way to check for a faulty injection pump is to use the essential tool #3163834. The tool connects to the fuel injection pump module and isolates the problem to either the pump or to the ECM and wiring harness. Connect the tool's battery clamps to the negative and positive terminals on the battery. If the vehicle still will not start with the tool connected, you will need to replace the fuel injection pump. If the engine does start, the injection pump can be checked further by using the idle button to change between low and high idle speeds. If the engine does not respond, replace the injection pump. If the engine starts and changes idle appropriately with the tool connected, the injection pump is probably okay. IF THE CONCERN IS A HARD START/LONG CRANK TIME AFTER A 10 - 60 MINUTE HOT SOAK, there are NO CODES and fuel supply pressure is good, problem is probably a defective injection pump. A way to confirm this is to duplicate the hard start condition, then (with the engine not running) cool the injection pump with a large quantity of water (e.g. use a garden hose). If the engine start better after cooling the injection pump, the pump needs to be replaced.

Tsutter

The engine feels like it has a miss. I have great fuel pressure 22psi. I'm going to change the filters on my fass system when I get home. I still do not get any codes. I'm going to get it scanned at lunch today. i think its the pump, but it could be the tranny?

PaulDaisy

Take a look at the Performance 2nd gen section. There are several recent threads on this. I am convinced this is caused by too high pressure when cranking. Your stock LP was set up to reduce the pressure when cranking. FASS and other aftermarket systems maintain 22 psi or whatever all the time and VP-44 is not happy, it needs a reduced pressure when the engine is starting up.

Tsutter

Well I had the truck scanned & no codes. It kind of feels like the torque convertor is locking & unlocking. The tranny temp is not hi. 140deg.f. & it does not smell burnt. I'm at a loss. I'll try the filters when I get home. Anybody got any ideas?

Donnie Gaines

I changed lift pump no luck changed cam sensor & crank sensor no luck changed injectors runs better but still cranks along time when warm a friend told me of someone un plugin temperature sensor I did that Yesterday It now starts perfect but no temp gauge runs good got check engine light on hopefully it will just be the temperature sensor it starts like it did when I first got it yesterday was 5/11/19