1999 starts , idles but won’t rev
08-09-2018, 09:27 AM
#1
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1999 starts , idles but won’t rev
Went to go to work this morning , started it up. When it fired it fired really rough and started smoking . Shut it off and it started fine with no smoke. But when I push the pedal it absolutely has no rev to it . No check engine light on either . Any basic ideas I can try until I can borrow a code scanner ?
08-09-2018, 09:39 AM
#2
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Check for lift pump operation- open the water drain with the engine running- you will need a bottle to catch the diesel and close the lever quickly if the lift pump works.
08-09-2018, 09:52 AM
#3
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I have a FASS DDRP , my fuel pressure gauge is showing 16 at idle . It goes forward reverse fine when idling . When I push the pedal down while idling I can hear a vague slight noise happening . I wanted to pop the plastic cover on the throttle cover but that little screw keeps spinning .
08-09-2018, 11:11 AM
#4
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I also want to add. There was absolutely no symptoms or hiccups leading up to this . Only odd symtom was last night before bed my dads girlfriend asked if I was in the market for a newer truck. Said his friend who works at the dealer has a 2013 with 30,000 km for $41,000 Canadian . 
08-10-2018, 03:39 AM
#5
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OK, didn't know that you have a pressure gauge.
The little screw will keep spinning unless you turn it left without pressing on it. These screws are just pushed in without a tool at installation.
Smoke and rough running point towards the injection pump. Then the return of normal idle but no throttle reaction- maybe go and check the wiring for rodent damage or corroded connectors.
Still, I'd be prepared for some codes concerning the IP and take a small part of those 41k Can$ for a new pump..
The little screw will keep spinning unless you turn it left without pressing on it. These screws are just pushed in without a tool at installation.
Smoke and rough running point towards the injection pump. Then the return of normal idle but no throttle reaction- maybe go and check the wiring for rodent damage or corroded connectors.
Still, I'd be prepared for some codes concerning the IP and take a small part of those 41k Can$ for a new pump..
08-10-2018, 09:15 AM
#7
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Uuugggg... had a new one installed about 3 years ago. I was googling away last night and a lot of people had same problems and it was there Apps/tps. My friend is comming Saturday with his scanner. See if he can clear the codes and get throttle back temporary. Is it's a another injection pump .... guess I'm shopping a new truck since mine is about to hit 500K .
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08-11-2018, 05:55 PM
#8
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Breakin News !!!!! ..... I did the gas pedal "APPS reset " thing ....and started it up and my gas pedal was back . I'm going to add a note, last time I changed my batteries ( done it 3 times now) I never did a APPS reset . ( I'm sure I read something here that you should) My friend came over with his scanner and 2 codes came up . P0230 - " Transfer Pump Out Of Range" and P1693 " Fault in companion module " Do any of these codes have any connection to my gas pedal going away and resetting the APSS to bring it back ? Thanks again for the replies
08-11-2018, 06:12 PM
#9
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Transfer pump out of range- good, the ECM sees a difference between your fass relay and the stock fuel pump. No worries here
1693- well, there is a fault in the ECM, (as seen above) and the PCM states correctly that there is a fault in a companion module - No worries here either.
I am curious if the reset fixes it permanently for you...
If his scanner has the capability to show realtime data I'd look at the TPS with the scanner while moving the pedal.
1693- well, there is a fault in the ECM, (as seen above) and the PCM states correctly that there is a fault in a companion module - No worries here either.
I am curious if the reset fixes it permanently for you...
If his scanner has the capability to show realtime data I'd look at the TPS with the scanner while moving the pedal.
08-11-2018, 07:57 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Thanks Alpine , made me feel a lot better . I can ask him about the real time scanner. So.... should I drive it again or try and do more tests ?
Back in the fall, I did get the "No Bus" thing on my dash, but it went away after a few start ups , and have never seen that again .
Back in the fall, I did get the "No Bus" thing on my dash, but it went away after a few start ups , and have never seen that again .
08-12-2018, 02:51 AM
#11
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Do some local driving, so a tow won't break the bank..
I'd also test for AC voltage on the batteries. AC noise can cause a lot of different troubles.
I'd also test for AC voltage on the batteries. AC noise can cause a lot of different troubles.
08-13-2018, 11:34 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Let's say it was my Apps/TPS sensor. In Canada you can only buy one with the bracket for $400 plus taxes. Online (USA) , I can order just the sensor for $40 . But says you have to re-calibrate . How difficult to recalibrate it?
08-14-2018, 12:29 AM
#13
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Cliffnotes: Remove old sensor, install new one, do not tighten bolts, plug in using paperclip, measure voltage and rotate sensor until desired voltage is reached, tighten bolts, remove paperclip, install the throttle cable, cruise cable and throttle valve cable (as applicable) and test drive.
So approximately 10-20 minutes more than the deal with the whole bracket.. you can even buy a multimeter and be ahead several hundred dollars for not much work.
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08-14-2018, 11:20 AM
#14
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I thought I added this last night but must have not hit send .
I took it it for a rip last night and everything seems back to normal. Odd thing now is , I’ve been having brake problems ( soft pedal) for over 5 years . Tried everything . Now after resetting the APPS and clearing codes, my pedal feels strong again . Maybe just coincedence?
I took it it for a rip last night and everything seems back to normal. Odd thing now is , I’ve been having brake problems ( soft pedal) for over 5 years . Tried everything . Now after resetting the APPS and clearing codes, my pedal feels strong again . Maybe just coincedence?