02 dodge 2500 47re won’t go into over drive
12-24-2018, 07:36 AM
#47
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While it looks like your transmission is working fine it is still not really advisable to drive a vehicle with undefined electronic problems.
With the manual switches you need to be very careful because lockup does not disengage while braking, this increases braking distance and it can also lead to stalling the engine and internal damage to the transmission.
There are some factors the PCM takes into consideration to determine when to activate OD and lockup.
Ideally you can talk to the PCM and observe values as seen by the PCM with a cheap OBD bluetooth adapter and a smartphone.
For example if the trans fluid temperature is too low or too high it will not go into OD - if the sensor is defective but still gives a plausible value you will not have an error code but still no OD.
Plausibility for those sensors is only a range (EG not much colder than after cold soaking in Anchorage in winter, not much hotter than pulling a trailer with stuck brakes through death valley in summer) and only going outside that range will trip a code.
With the manual switches you need to be very careful because lockup does not disengage while braking, this increases braking distance and it can also lead to stalling the engine and internal damage to the transmission.
There are some factors the PCM takes into consideration to determine when to activate OD and lockup.
Ideally you can talk to the PCM and observe values as seen by the PCM with a cheap OBD bluetooth adapter and a smartphone.
For example if the trans fluid temperature is too low or too high it will not go into OD - if the sensor is defective but still gives a plausible value you will not have an error code but still no OD.
Plausibility for those sensors is only a range (EG not much colder than after cold soaking in Anchorage in winter, not much hotter than pulling a trailer with stuck brakes through death valley in summer) and only going outside that range will trip a code.
12-24-2018, 09:47 PM
#48
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Alright I’ll look into finding a scanner, don’t know if this means anything but I just got another crank positioning sensor code and I just replaced the old one 5 miles ago when all this started happening
12-25-2018, 06:55 AM
#49
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OK, maybe you should take a really good look at the sensor wiring.
My personal experience with aftermarket sensors is not stellar, I prefer the Cummins parts from my local Cummins dealer.
For a reader search for ELM327 on Amazon or the like, even if it says not for diesel- no matter since you just want to talk to the PCM that controls the transmission. Such a reader with bluetooth is about 10US$, there are free apps for Android.
My personal experience with aftermarket sensors is not stellar, I prefer the Cummins parts from my local Cummins dealer.
For a reader search for ELM327 on Amazon or the like, even if it says not for diesel- no matter since you just want to talk to the PCM that controls the transmission. Such a reader with bluetooth is about 10US$, there are free apps for Android.
02-09-2019, 03:23 PM
#50
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what is causing the second rpm reading to act up? The top rpm reading reads exactly what the rpm gauge on my truck reads but at idle the second rpm reading is fine but when I start driving the second rpm reading goes all over the place from 100rpm-3500rpm
02-09-2019, 05:35 PM
#51
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The "secret" is in the "$" -you are reading different modules. Some modules will not receive precise information on operating parameters. (like the central locking module- only interested in engine rpm <> zero.. so if you ask that module about engine rpm it should show zero if the engine is stopped, and any other value is good as long as the engine is running.
02-12-2019, 05:51 PM
#57
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Was having similar issue with the 47re trans not shifting into 1st gear.
Dropped pan, changed fluid ATF 4+ ( 1gallon) and filter.
Adjusted front band and drove to trans shop to check for codes. Noticed that it would not shift into 4th (overdrive)
At idle, it showed governor psi @ 50, rep stated this was not allowing it to shift down into 1st gear for take off thus it was slow starting out in 2nd.
Trans shop stated they changed out gov solenoid and it now shifted 1-2-3 but no 4 (OD).
I could have taken it elsewhere but went ahead and had them pull the trans out, knowing there was a problem and this is my only truck. Rep stated the torque converter was slipping, "partially burned" and a big part of the issue. (I had what I thought was a heavy duty torque converter installed but how is one to really confirm this with a shop after installed).
To make a long story short, doing the whole transmission (3rd time) again with heavy duty clutches, triple disc converter and billet input shaft.
Not sure if this helps but hopefully knowledge for someone.
** Went to the shop doing the trans rebuild, inspected the torque converter which was supposed to be "heavy duty." It was a dacco standard torque converter. It appeared to have overheated as the exterior appeared to be slightly discolored/burned. You can definitely tell between a standard TQ and billet version. Having a Florida Torque Converter billet triple disc installed w/billet input shaft and full overhaul. Hopefully no more issues.
Dropped pan, changed fluid ATF 4+ ( 1gallon) and filter.
Adjusted front band and drove to trans shop to check for codes. Noticed that it would not shift into 4th (overdrive)
At idle, it showed governor psi @ 50, rep stated this was not allowing it to shift down into 1st gear for take off thus it was slow starting out in 2nd.
Trans shop stated they changed out gov solenoid and it now shifted 1-2-3 but no 4 (OD).
I could have taken it elsewhere but went ahead and had them pull the trans out, knowing there was a problem and this is my only truck. Rep stated the torque converter was slipping, "partially burned" and a big part of the issue. (I had what I thought was a heavy duty torque converter installed but how is one to really confirm this with a shop after installed).
To make a long story short, doing the whole transmission (3rd time) again with heavy duty clutches, triple disc converter and billet input shaft.
Not sure if this helps but hopefully knowledge for someone.
** Went to the shop doing the trans rebuild, inspected the torque converter which was supposed to be "heavy duty." It was a dacco standard torque converter. It appeared to have overheated as the exterior appeared to be slightly discolored/burned. You can definitely tell between a standard TQ and billet version. Having a Florida Torque Converter billet triple disc installed w/billet input shaft and full overhaul. Hopefully no more issues.
Last edited by high bid; 02-13-2019 at 04:10 PM. Reason: update
02-16-2019, 04:08 PM
#58
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Got a snap on scan tool and I am now getting new ransoms codes that come on and then go away and the scan tool was also cutting on and off while driving but the codes are p0320, p0622, p1765, p1491, p0753, and p1682
02-16-2019, 05:01 PM
#59
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OK, the tool cutting off... that's a smoking gun in hand...
Electrical problem, a loose connection somewhere. Each of these computers in the truck will throw random codes if they wake up to an engine running and the truck moving down the road.
They expect everything at standstill, then a key turned, preheat cycle if necessary and startup- then movement of the vehicle
Electrical problem, a loose connection somewhere. Each of these computers in the truck will throw random codes if they wake up to an engine running and the truck moving down the road.
They expect everything at standstill, then a key turned, preheat cycle if necessary and startup- then movement of the vehicle
02-16-2019, 07:20 PM
#60
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Pulling everyground tonight and cleaning and replacing the main negative battery terminals tomorrow, both of the main negatives are covered in oil from the timing cover and I cut back the small ground on the driver side from the battery to the frame and the whole wire is full of corrosion, same with the main terminal on driver side, any transgrounds tho? Couldn’t find any on it