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02 dodge 2500 47re won’t go into over drive

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Old 02-17-2019, 03:02 AM
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Trans grounds through the engine case.
Corroded cables (especially ground cables) cause a lot of problems that can be hard to find the root cause.
I think that going over the wiring is a good idea and a step in the right direction.
Please do also check the fuse holders and relay contacts in the PDC and in the in-cab fusebox. A lose connection there can also be the culprit.
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nothingbutdarts (02-17-2019)
Old 02-17-2019, 07:47 PM
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Replaced both battery grounds and cleaned up the reset but I had to cut a few of them shorter until I got clean wire. Truck still has the same problems, had a few people tell me It might be the ecm cause of the random codes I had pop up and go away and then pop up again and then go away by itself.
Old 02-18-2019, 02:08 AM
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Did you reset all codes and calibrate the APPS after repairing the grounds?
Old 02-18-2019, 05:09 AM
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The battery cables were off for over a day so when I checked for codes after I didn’t get any but I didn’t drive far and not sure what the APPS is
Old 02-18-2019, 06:35 AM
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The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor is often also called TPS for Throttle Position Sensor.
To re-calibrate it you need to have both battery negatives removed for 30 minutes or more, with the key in the run position.
Remove key, reconnect batteries, turn key to run and slowly depress and release the accelerator pedal, then turn the ignition off.
This teaches the ECM and the PCM the correct readings for your go pedal, therefore influencing engine running in the ECM, 3-4 shift and lockup logic in the PCM.
Old 02-18-2019, 05:12 PM
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Recalibrated the apps and still no change but got a new code p1899 park/neutral switch circuit conditions and got the same crank sensor code but all my other codes are gone for the trans 3-4 and generator codes
Old 02-18-2019, 05:20 PM
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OK, less codes after doing the wiring work- maybe the rest of your wiring is similarly corroded/damaged as your grounds?

Now the park neutral code can come from A shifting to neutral while driving and B from the sensor and the wiring showing that you did that even if you did not.
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Old 02-19-2019, 12:46 PM
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Will look more into the wires but I noticed about a week ago that when I turned my key on my fuel pump wouldn’t prime or cut on and the truck ran like crap, so I had to move the wire for the fass fuel pump from the #5 pin in the relay to the #1 pin so it will get power even with the key off but that’s the only way I can get the pump to run.
Old 02-20-2019, 12:16 AM
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On which relay is your fass pump?
Old 02-20-2019, 06:40 AM
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The ignition wire for the fass is in my fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood
Old 02-20-2019, 08:18 AM
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Have you tried adding a ground wire to the PCM? If the fuel pump is also giving you trouble, then you still have a grounding problem. After replacing all of my battery cables I stripped the insulation off the old cables and found a LOT of corrosion.
Old 02-20-2019, 09:54 AM
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The pcm have a ground that’s is connected to the firewall and go to one on the bolts that hold the pcm to the fire wall and the only really bad grounds was the driver side battery ground and the passenger side ground that runs from the battery to the fender but the plastic was melted on it
Old 02-20-2019, 04:02 PM
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OK, melting plastic is a sure fire sign of something wrong in the electrical world.

Many times the "ground" is ignored, but any electrical circuit needs to get the juice "there" and "back(over the ground)".
Especially measuring circuits dealing with millivolts and milliamperes will get massive influence if you try to get let's say your starter turn over your engine with the '"grounds" of these circuits.
So, unless you have that fixed, you can throw parts at the problem at your lesure and you won't fix it.
Old 02-20-2019, 04:28 PM
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That wire was melted when I got the truck 2 years ago but got that fixed and the other grounds, I think whoever had the truck before me had some wiring issues cause some of my ground the wire loom is melted but the wire under it was fine. Wonder if they replaced the wire and reused the loom. Drive the truck around today to see if I could get any of my old codes to come up. None of the old ones came up but still have the p1899 and the CKP code. Truck did go into over drive for about a mile but as soon as I took my foot off a little it dropped back out.
Old 02-22-2019, 01:04 PM
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Truck now has no codes present only the p1693. Drove the truck again for about 20 minutes to see if something might work it’s self out. Checked for codes again and nothing but the p1693, still jumping in out of OD


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