1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

You'd think a forum search for "Twins" would cut it.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 7, 2008 | 06:19 PM
  #16  
Gary Emerald's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
I wouldn't do the 64 on an unported 12v head... the 62 will hit about 250rpm sooner than the 64
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2008 | 10:42 PM
  #17  
BC847's Avatar
Thread Starter
1st Generation Admin
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,601
Likes: 118
From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by Gary Emerald
I wouldn't do the 64 on an unported 12v head... the 62 will hit about 250rpm sooner than the 64
That's one thing I failed to mention ~ I'm running a stage X ported head from PDR. 195cfm intake / 220 cfm exhaust.

Fueling is the typical maxed 12mm VE IP. Regular DDP4s squirt it in there. A little 50/50 W/M.

Check out the smoke toward the top end of this pass ~ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsSAqq--C4U

I'd like to actually burn that black smoke and still have enough air to cool it down doing it.


I've been under the impression twins offered the quick spooling of the smaller turbo combined with the higher top-end airflow of the larger.

A larger single might not be as well mannered with daily driving?


Folks, I DO appreciate your comments and suggestions.
Reply
Old Jul 8, 2008 | 12:28 AM
  #18  
Gary Emerald's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
twins can begin spooling EARLIER than a big single, but they don't necessarily spool FASTER once the needle starts to wiggle on that single

I ran an sps62 with a fairly well ported 12v head, and I loved it... I tried a silver bullet 66 on it and didn't like it that much... an sps64 would have been fun to try, but I LOVED that 62

loved it so much that I kept it when I sold that truck and I'm currently running it on another 12v. unported head this time, and it still works killer.

if you want to do a 35/3B setup, I have most of the parts of a 35/3B setup sitting on the shelf. but I think you would have more fun with a nice single unless you tow a lot or live at altitude
Reply
Old Jul 8, 2008 | 11:04 PM
  #19  
Fergavs's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
From: Lloydminster,AB Canada
my 64/71/14 will be done by next week and I will post results. I have a fair amount more fuel but im sure any insight would help. stay tuned...
Reply
Old Jul 8, 2008 | 11:41 PM
  #20  
BC847's Avatar
Thread Starter
1st Generation Admin
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,601
Likes: 118
From: Buies Creek, NC
Thanks for the input folks.

Frankly, I'm not bent on having twins. A big honkin single would be fine as long as it lights early (for clean/economical drivability) and keeps it cool at WOT.

Historically, I've never pulled anything repeatedly/long enough to really push that mode of design (towing vs playing).


Crap!

450hp to 500hp and most likely the former tops. The foundation's there to support 60psig boost (studs, O-rings, and a .25mm over head gasket).

The foundation's there to support a little higher RPM peak (Fluidampnr, 60# valve springs, titanium retains and hardened keepers). I'm currently running the 3200rpm governor spring and may sneak in a 3400rpm version if it'll fit right.

Reply
Old Jul 9, 2008 | 04:56 PM
  #21  
bgilbert's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,253
Likes: 0
From: Terre Haute,IN
I'd venture to guess you'd make more power with a 35/3b setup over a 64 or 66 s300 in a VE pumped 1st gen. To make power in a rpm limited 1st gen you need to spool quick by 1900-2000 to make full power.
Reply
Old Jul 9, 2008 | 05:34 PM
  #22  
BC847's Avatar
Thread Starter
1st Generation Admin
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,601
Likes: 118
From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by bgilbert
I'd venture to guess you'd make more power with a 35/3b setup over a 64 or 66 s300 in a VE pumped 1st gen. To make power in a rpm limited 1st gen you need to spool quick by 1900-2000 to make full power.
Yup.

That's why I'm reluctant to give up on the 35 with the 14 gated housing. Further, I won't be adding more fuel less eventually upgrading to EDMs of similar flow to the DDP4s (DDP4s flow a bit more than PODS) for the sake of cleaning up the smoke.

In talking with the folks at PDR today, specifically considering my current set-up (who's majority of parts came from PDR), I was assured the 35/3B set-up would give me at least 250*F relief. In fact, considering the fuel quantity I'm running, they were pretty sure I may not be able to bring the 35/3B up to its full rated boost (60psig +/-). Perhaps more like 55psig (it'll do more but they want to stick within well known ratings).

As was mentioned earlier, twins may not wind-up as fast as a single, but in MY case, sticking to the 35 would offer a marked improvement over a (for example) 40/3B when it comes to when the thing begins to spool meaning: . . . .. The 35 would begin at a lower engine rpm as compared to the 40.



I'm not building my mess to compete with say . . . John P, KTA, or Stomp. I also know full well that somewhere just ahead of where I'm at, is the breaking point of something else.

I ain't into it.


I'm content with surprising the crap out of 85% of my opponents at the local strip.

There will always be a truck MUCH faster than my heap, and I'm good with that.


I think I'm gonna go with the 35/3B

I'm familiar with Source Automotive and the parts they offer. Anybody got a ready-made list of that needed? Flanges, adapters, etc?

Thanks folks.
Reply
Old Jul 9, 2008 | 06:32 PM
  #23  
bgilbert's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,253
Likes: 0
From: Terre Haute,IN
CUSTOM!!! I seriously doubt anything already built from Source or anyone else, minus PDR, will bolt up in a 1st gen. The typical 90* elbow dropping straight back down behind the hx35 for a hotpipe might work in a 2nd gen truck, but if you do that you're probly gonna have to take a chunk out of your firewall to clear a 5" downpipe. Maybe if you could reduce it down to 4" then fab a short radius 90 like MikeThomas did you could get away with that.

Here's what I've done so far, this may get you started. Find an industrial plumbing shop to buy yourself some Schedule 40 black pipe 3" 90* elbow(s). I used 3 of them cut down to place the s400 directly under and to the side of the s300, instead of directly behind it. I looked at NeedMoPower's and KTA's setups and sorta designed my hotpipe the way they did. Almost looks just like KTA's hotpipe. This way you don't have to drop the oil pan or relocate your oil filter. I bet some pics would clear this up, seeing as me just typing along isn't helping much huh.

If you can fabricate and weld you can build your own twins. I just happen to have a friend that does both for a living and he's doing most of the hard work.
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2008 | 06:44 PM
  #24  
MikeThomas's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 919
Likes: 6
From: Seatac WA
His 3b has a different rotation so he will only need one of the 3" 90's. I went with a standard 3" 90 degree tight radius exhaust pipe and welded a flange from my original downpipe. This gave me a v-band clamp that allowed me to infinitely index the bottom turbo. Makes it a whole lot easier to fit things in with the adjustment. No need for the schedule 40 if you have a bottom bracket to support that 55lb monster 3B.
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2008 | 06:47 PM
  #25  
MikeThomas's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 919
Likes: 6
From: Seatac WA
Oh if you need a flange for the hx35 housing I have one that was water jetted with a 3" opening out of 5/8". If you pay for shipping its yours. No, this offer is only for David, please dont turn this into a site violation.
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2008 | 08:45 PM
  #26  
BC847's Avatar
Thread Starter
1st Generation Admin
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,601
Likes: 118
From: Buies Creek, NC
Well . .. . . . .. Bill, I can work steel and burn a hole in it.

Mike, I thank you graciously for the offer.

And as much as I'd like to go with some ball-bearing boys,

My plans of limiting things to 450 ~ 500 hp can't justify more than the 35/HT3B combo. Ultimately running perhaps some EDM'ed injectors similar in flow to my current DDP4's should be just enough fueling. That combined with the 14wg housing on the 35 should give good throttle response. I should see around 60psig boost (+/-).
Further, and this is a strong consideration for me, with the recent thread on a twin build-up, acknowledging the time it takes, the aggravation of having to do things at least three times to get it "Just Right". Having to do it under a tarp in 80*~95*F @ 40%~ on up humidity . . . after fixing everybody else's AC . . . !

And the wife wants a small 4x4 ATV?


Screw It! Mark at PDR cut me a deal for their stage-1 kit I couldn't refuse. It should be here perhaps by this weeks end. I'm going to the beach the next weekend. It should be installed by the end of the following week.

I will have to drop the pan to install a second oil drain. Why shouldn't I sneak in a girdle?
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dodgediesel
ABDTR #5
3
Oct 18, 2011 09:22 PM
dodgediesel
ABDTR #5
496
Oct 16, 2011 04:33 PM
stock600
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
14
Feb 25, 2008 11:21 AM
tthomass
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
20
Aug 19, 2005 09:35 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:36 PM.