90firstgen

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone make an OE type wiring harness for us to rewire our taillights? I have a brake light/left rear blinker problem. I think its in the wiring itself. Brake light switch and dimmer switch etc are all new. This couldn't be related to the turn signal switch correct? Thanks. I'm lazy when it comes to electrical because I hate going through diagrams lol. I replace the easy things first.

PS.. If anyone has a copy of the brake light diagrams don't be shy to post

ofcmarc

There's not much back there as far as wiring is concerned. What exactly is the problem?

Diagram is in the "STICKY"

90firstgen

Brake lights just flat out don't work and my driver's rear turn signal doesn't work. Everything else works as it should. When the blinker is on, I get about 2 volts to the socket. All bulbs are good. I've checked them all with the multimeter and even replaced them. I'm also getting power to the brake light switch.

Chrisreyn

The replacement socket assy I bought had the harness attached that hooked up to the main harness.

90firstgen

To the main harness under the dash? Or wherever it is..

90firstgen

Let me go back a step and tell what I found on the pigtail to the brake light switch. 4 pins. 2 were dead - I'm guessing grounds. 1 pin had 12 volts, and the 4th pin had .66 volts. Sound normal?

ofcmarc

Check scans 32 & 33 for Brake/turn sig operation.

http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/1991....ams/Scan32.jpg
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/1991....ams/Scan33.jpg

Check the conector at the LH rear frame rail and see if you have 12v at the BLK/YL wire for brakes and DG/YL for LH turn sig BR/YL for RH turn.

If you have 12v there, the problem is in the tail light harness if you don't, the problem is upstream towards the Brake light switch/Turn sig switch.

Chrisreyn

There should be one wire in teh pig tail for the turn signal that should have a 0.0VDC reading when "off" and read 12VDC when on, and another for the stop function.One for the tail-light function and a ground. I dont have the color-codes, that would be in the wiring diagrams.
the 0.66 reading is indicating "bleed-over" or a short in teh harness. Repalcign the pigtail should fix this..

BTW this is exactly what mine was doing when I had to replace mine last year, same symtoms your having, the short was in the socket itself...

I had to disconnect the socket wiring pig-tail and, using a test light, determine function at the frame rail where the main harness connector is.
Then, since teh new pigtail wasnt color coded, make temp connections until I got them all mated up properly.. it was a real PITA, but solved teh problem.

90firstgen

Where did you order yoru new socket assembly? and $$$$

Chrisreyn

I picked it up at O'reilly's, it was a carded item on teh shelf... i dont remember the cost , but I am sure it was under $20...

90firstgen

Well I got her whipped out fellas. I replaced the turn signal switch tonight because it was a possible short for my brake lights and because it was feeling very loose and worn out. The verdict... still no brake lights. SO i pull the taillight out of the non working driver's rear end and inspect the bulb. Looks great. (I turned the left turn signal on before I did all of this) I tried to put the bulb in 180* off and all of a sudden I have a blinker. I had a friend hold the bulb just like that and all of the brake lights worked like they should too! So I clean the socket and reinstall the bulb the right way and I have nothing again. I start banging on it with my flashlight and I notice a tiny little spark on one of the filaments everytime I hit it. So I changed the bulb again and VOILA! Everything wors like it should now. I knew it in my head that the failed left rear turn signal and the lack of stop lamps was related. Glad I was right Long story short, the bad bulb (which I replaced a month or two ago) was not the original problem. I was still only getting 2 or 3 volts to the socket before I replaced dimmer, brake light, and turn signal switches. So if anyone else is having a problem like this, replace your light bulbs again before you tear the column apart. I'm glad I replaced all of the switches too. When I pulled the dimmer switch, it literally fell apart in my hands and the turn signal switch was looking like quite the piece of crap. Thanks for the help
Dan

ofcmarc

Anytime I get a tail light out, I perform the "flick test" on the bulb.

Hold the bulb up and flick the glass. Watch the filaments while you do this. In a bad bulb the filament will flutter.