You need to turn it counter clockwise for less fuel at low boost not clock wise. Take it way up counter clockwise a few turns. All you have to do is make sure the spring will not bind or bottom out. If you wind it up to much the spring will compress all the way and not alow the fuel cone to go all the way to the deep part.

 

If you still have it, you can also put the nylon fuel pin washer/spacer in. I put mine back in and it helped alot with EGTs under heavy loads. I didn't notice any appreciable loss in performance.

 

One thing you could try doing, is put the dennyT in backwords, so there is no fuel curve. See if the truck does the same thing, if so its probably time for clean injectors or dare i say back the full fuel screw out some.

If this does solve your problem then the m2-3 is probably best, but y spend more money if your not sure its going to fix your problem.

 

That's about 1100 rpm - not exactly lugging but not really revving either.
I can't floor the throttle at anything below 1500 rpm without blowing smoke. On the hiway at 55mph, which is just under 1500 rpm, and my cruise set to 70, if I hit 'resume' I'll smoke for about 30 sec 'til boost builds to 15psi.

 

3rd gear and 30 I get no smoke at all and a haze if I'm dragging something. Now 3rd gear and 20 is lights out for a brief moment regardless.

 

If you are happy with your DennyT stage 2 and his service I would contact Denny about your problem.... All I'm saying...

 

Update...

I decided to try my stock fuel pin again. I am going to be towing my camper up and over the Bighorns tomorrow to Sheridan, WY

It didn't help. I had the same situation. Travelling 30-35 in 3rd, I dropped the hammer... black cloud of doom. As you would think, I lost a little low end switching from a Denny T, but got no benefit that I can see yet.

Would backing off the full power screw do anything in this situation?

 

I'd say so John. If you back it off you'll be putting less fuel in. Less fuel will allow what is going in to burn more efficiently. Fuel burns from the outside in, so if there's less to burn, no excess shall we say, what is in there will burn more completely, (there's more room for air.) Better burn = less unburnt fuel, or smoke.
I don't know if it will clear all the smoke up, because you still need enough air to burn however much fuel you're delivering to the bowl. Do you know how much boost you have at 30 - 35 mph? I'm guessing not much. I know you don't want driving lessons, but it's possible dropping to 2nd will bring the rpm's up enough to light the turbo, thus giving you more air. I have an auto, so I don't know if you can go to 2nd at that sort of speed.

... Just read your signature. Those injectors aren't helping...

 

Some people have been trying different AFC springs, I think that may be the key. Unix was saying the stock spring compresses at 10 psi.


Anyways, I will probably turn it down a full turn tomorrow and see how it does.

 

John, I was reading your signature and something struck me funny. So I started looking at your S362 turbo. It should provide plenty of air but its application is for small gassers. Drive velocity over drive pressure instead of the other way around for diesels. That may be why boost is lagging behind fuel so much. If this is the case then turning down the fuel will only help a little.

 

I don't know what you are talking about. It's a standard 62/65/12 S300 sold by dieselautopower.com Many CTD people run this turbo.

 

yeah its a great size turbo for a cummins. lots of 500+ hp commonrails run them too.

 

....

 

What are you trying to tell me Justramit?

I kind of decided against running the Denny T backwards because I wanted at least a small slope.

 

I think what Nick, (justramit) is trying to say is just try it. You've got nothing to lose except a little time. If it doesn't work it doesn't work, and go on to something else. I don't know for sure that's what he's implying though...