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White smoke on cold start up after pulling the pump

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Old 09-24-2017, 04:03 PM
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White smoke on cold start up after pulling the pump

Hey guys. I picked up 93 d350 12v a couple weeks ago. Always wanted one, and really glad I got an offer I couldn't pass up. It had a couple minor problems that I've already solved, and one kinda big one. It was belching fuel out of the governor shaft while running. I decided to replace the crank seal at the same time, so I pulled the whole cover, marked the pump gear in 3 locations, pulled the pump, and replaced the o ring. Did KDP and bolts while I was there. Put it all back together and fired it up and it ran like trash. Falling on its face, wouldn't rev, blowing white smoke everywhere. I realized that the pump was not properly rotated at all, and was laying down too far from the engine. I loosened everything and rotated it back up, and now it runs like a champ, no hesitation, revs up great, perfect power. But, a bit of white smoke on the first start of the day. Goes away after about 30 seconds, and doesn't blow any smoke at all while driving, or if you rev it while it's warmed up. Timing still off a bit? It doesn't bother me, but if it's detrimental to the engine I'd like to know how to fix it properly. I read somewhere there's an adjustment that can be done with the pump on the truck, but I wasn't sure if it applied to these or if I'd need to pull the pump again and re time everything.
Old 09-24-2017, 05:25 PM
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What are the temperatures when you fire it up and get the white smoke? Do your grid heaters, and the KSB function properly?

My motor was running rough for the first fire up, with lots of white smoke/hazing. Turns out I needed the grids and KSB hooked up.
Old 09-24-2017, 05:34 PM
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I never disconnected the grids, but maybe I'm getting a bad connection on the ksb solenoid. I'll check that here in a minute.
Old 09-24-2017, 05:52 PM
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I have had that problem on my crew cab after pulling the pump. Try advancing the timing a little.

I have also had problems with white smoke on start up after sitting for a day or so that was air getting pulled into the fuel line from the tank due to a loose clamp on the fuel line at the LP.
Old 09-24-2017, 05:59 PM
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Oh very cool. I hate to sound so newbish but how do you advance the timing and how far would you go?
Old 09-24-2017, 06:17 PM
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Just like you did last time you rotated it closer to the head.
I would go a small amount and see if it improves.
There are timing makes on the back of the timing case that should line up with the injection pump as a base line for reference.
Old 09-24-2017, 06:19 PM
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Unfortunately it doesn't go any closer than it is. The slots definitely show that it has more room to move, but for some reason it doesn't.
Old 09-24-2017, 06:25 PM
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Have you loosened all the injection lines, pump nut, ETC.?

Google "advancing timing on a VE pumped 12V on You tube and get a few pointers if need be.
Old 09-24-2017, 06:29 PM
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I don't know how long you are getting white smoke or what your ambient temp is but at this time of year up here in Central Alberta we get White Smoke in the morning or initial start up.
It lasts between 5 and 10 minutes then as the motor warms up it goes away.
In later winter I have started the old girls and they will rattle and shake for upwards of half an hour and fill the whole yard with white smoke.
Ken.
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BrokenGQ
Unfortunately it doesn't go any closer than it is. The slots definitely show that it has more room to move, but for some reason it doesn't.
Broken, don't forget the rear pump brace nut, the fourth attachment on the fuel pump. Maybe that's why it's not moving.

Other folks have used a ratchet strap, one end attached to a bracket somewhere on the pump(do not connect to any fuel lines, lol) and the other end to the metal flange that's on top of the air filter box. They've placed a block of wood on top of the valve cover(not the valve cover beauty plate, but the valve cover) to act as leverage when they crank that ratchet strap, thus pulling the pump towards the passenger side. Be really careful, as your fuel lines are still connected to the pump. I was able to do it this way very carefully and achieved a 3/16" gap difference between the reference marks.

The cautious approach way to do it would be to loosen all fuel lines connected to the rear of the VE, but if your careful and your lines are in good shape(no rust or kinks) you can doooo eeeet!(quote from the Fusion, lol)
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