Hey guys once again looking for advice. I have had this problem of white smoke, poor fuel mileage and low power for all most a year. It smokes white at idle while in gear, my mileage runs at about 13-15 highway and my power seems low. So in a years time lets see if I can recap what I have done to cure it.
1.check and set timing
2.pulled rebuilt pump and injectors and had them "checked"
3.did compression check all cylinders within 10% of 280psi.
4.checked for evidence of moisture in fuel
5.played with all settings I can with pump

So that leaves me with what i did tonight. I was not really impressed with my results from the compression check so I did a cylinder leakage test. Here are the results with leakage points

Cylinder #, leakage percentage, where air was heard
1. 5% Exhaust
2. 21% Exhaust and cyl. 3
3. 5% Exhaust
4. 19% Exhaust and cyl. 3
5. 21% Exhaust and cyl.4
6. 21% Exhaust

Now wrap your minds around that. Should I start considering a head job? Do these figures look bad enough to consider doing so? These tests were ran with 100psi of shop air and I know for a fact they see much higher pressures. I just don't know how sensitive these motors are compression losses.

Lastly I would like some information on my injectors if anyone can help. These are the numbers I found on the side of them. 9350, kdal 59p5 183 01, 245 bar. If you need more information I'm sure I could help. By the way these are injectors that I purchased of e-bay, the supposed 50hp increase injectors.

I greatly appreciate any and all comments hopefully someone out there is a little smarter and a little wiser than I because this guys got the right idea

 

Whoa that was a lot!!!

 

IF you are loosing coolant I would suspect a head gasket. What shape is the turbo in?

 

K, First, how familer are you with the leak down tester?
You need to read and follow the derection exact if you want the reading to be corect!

2nt you need to pull the valve cover off and remove all the rocker arms! No matter were the eng stop, there will be intake and ex valve being held open by the cam. removing the rocker arms will prevent this from messing up your testing!
You really don't need to compleatly remove the rocker arms but that must be loosened enuff that the rocker arms are free of the valve and spring!

 

I have also tested turbo and it does produce a max boost of about 25psi. which I thought was about normal for what I have. I have looked at the fins and see no signs of wear or problems.

I have leak tested a few motors and pretty well know what I'm doin. As far as removing the rocker arms I didnt think that was necessary. I stopped each cylinder at tdc of compression stroke. I also put a coolant pressure tester on it for about 15 min. at 15psi and didnt lose any coolant and saw absolutely no leaks

I just want to be absolutely sure of the problem before I tear into a $500 plus head job or replace a set of new $325 injectors.

 

If the rings in the turbo are bad it'll dump white smoke.

 

I'm wondering if your mystery injectors are a SAC type, like PODs. If they are, you may just need more timming. Wannadiesel says cram the pump right up against the head when setting the timming with PODs. Maybe one of the smarter guys will chime in and decode those numbers for you. Before I tore anything down I'd look into that real good. You may be able to find a set of good used stock injectors for cheap as well. Swap them in and see if the smoke goes away, that will tell you for sure if the engines healthy, plus you'll have an economy set up for when fuel hits $10.00 a gallon.

 

I would really suspect the mystery injectors first, then the pump, and lastly the engine. Whe you're on the low edge, timing-wise, a degree or two can be the difference between white smoke, a miss and low power and a truck that runs well. Combine some big sticks that have low pop-pressures and a pump that was setup for a bulldozer, or at least w/out performance sticks in mind and you'll get...well, what you've got, IMO.

edit: you might try hotwiring the KSB and going for a ride...just to see if the extra timing it provides clears things up.

 

My thoughts run along the same lines as Greg's.

Something's wrong with your leakdown testing. There's no way that cylinder 2 and 4 are leaking into 3 if 3 is not leaking back into 2 and 4. You screwed up somewhere, maybe got the firing order confused or you were turning the motor the opposite direction you thought you were.

 

Ok guys thanks this is what I'm lookin for. First of all what rings in the turbo are you refering to? Got me there.

What do you mean by the SAC type injectors? As far as timing goes I when I set it I pulled the timing down from 17 degrees to 11, when it was that high it shook at idle horribly and was noisey?. Stock injectors are a bad subject because I once had the orginals from the truck but my father took them to a local diesel shop for the core. But thats an idea I like.
I'll try hot wiring the KSB tommrrow and see if that helps.

Wanna lets say that I did mess up but how does the air from 2 or 4 get back to 3 any other way. When I did it I followed the instructions of a teacher, roll the motor over till air is being pushed out of the tester hole, hook the tester to a clear tube and sink the other end into a glass full of water, when air quits coming out and right before it goes to suck it in your at TDC. As i found out if you are off it will spin the motor. Clear as mud right.

 

As far as I know, a SAC-type injector has a holding area in the tip, so that when the injector pops, all that extra fuel (in the tip) is there, which is why they flow so much fuel for so cheap. The problem is, the process isn't that precise and the tip tends to dribble fuel after the injector pops, hence the 'haze' associated with 'sac'-type tips. The only thing to do is advance the heck out of the timing to try and get more of that fuel burnt before it runs out the tailpipe at 3 bucks a gallon. Try the ksb trick and see what happens. Sorry about your core injectors....stuff happens The quick and dirty rule of thumb with timing is if it rattles like a chevy 6.2, you've gone too far, so back if off! Still, a non-working truck (running empty 6.9 days out of 7) will tolerate an absurd amount of timing and if your custom injectors are big enough, or popped low enough, you might just need some more timing lead to get things right.