samiam4

I'm messing with my 91.5 and the idle is a bit high... it's an automatic.

I cannot seem to get at the idle adjustment locknut without removing the fuel bleed banjo and using a deep 10mm socket.
I was hoping someone could make this easier- and how many rpm difference does a turn make?

Michael

mknittle

I was able to get mine loose with a craftsman ignition wrench. I then turned the screw with a curved dental pick using the hole through the screw.

1972RedNeck

I use a hammer and chisel to knock the nut loose...

j.fonder

Back the screw out completely and thread it in through the other side. You can get to the nut easily from the front side and turn the end with a screw driver.

bigragu

SAMIAM- get the correct tool by Schley. You can get it pretty cheap from genosgarage.com. It'll pay for itself in headaches alone. I adjust my idle to perfection at least once a year, sometimes twice. These tools are relatively inexpensive, and for me, make the idle set process a breeze. Only thing out of the ordinary I do is ratchet strap the upper radiator hose to the front bumper, to pull it away. Also, I remove my pumps front return spring, and prop the throttle bracket away from the stop, that way I'm not fighting any sort of tension. Loosen the 10mm lock nut with this tool, and I use a 90 degree needle nose plier to turn the idle bolt in/out. Simple, and no risk of damaging anything.

oliver foster

I have that same tool I bought from Geno's too, Augie.
I am glad to see you on DTR more often there Mr. big.

bigragu

It's guys like you, Oliver, that keep making me want to come back...

Jim Lane

When I had my pump apart, I removed both screws and using my Dremel I cut screwdriver slots in the end of them, now it easy to use a small pocket screwdriver to adjust them, it is also easy to use a 90* pick in the small hole at the end of the screw to turn it.
I loosened the nut with the tap of a small sharpened drift punch.
When you have the nut removed, file cuts across the flats of the nut to tap against.