I have a 91 1/2 d250 2 wheel drive. I need a new wheel cylinder, but NAPA is saying there are a lot of different options. I need to know which one to get before I tear it apart. Anyone know how to tell?

 

Much as it is a pain, you may have to pull a wheel cylinder to get the right one to fix the problem.

FWIW, I'd never post a complete VIN on the internet, least of all on an open forum such as this.

Mark.

 

If you are planning on replacing both sides. Try on from a 1 ton Chebbie, read some where you can get a bit more braking power.

 

You want to watch changing the sizes of brake shoes and wheel cylinders without also changing bias (proportioning), as you can end up locking up the rear brakes.
This is especially true, since these trucks are disproportionally lighter in the rear than the V-8/V-6 tucks are.

A good thing to do to get the brakes to work CORRECTLY is to remove the rear ABS valve from the rear brake circuit.
It has made a world of difference on many of these trucks.

Mark.

 

x2. I'd take it down if I were you.

 

You might be able to go to edit post and take off the numbers.

 

I would put the bigger cylinder in. There are two sizes, i switched to the bigger one, also I found that the wider brake shoes fit as well. Toss out the 2.5 in favor of the 3" from the duallies.

 

You can go with the really big one from the mid-90's GM dually (NAPA #37337), or you can go with ones that are only a little bigger than your stock ones. I don't know any part numbers for that size, but just tell them you need a set for a 2000 Dodge 2500. The 2nd gens came with wheel cylinders 1/16" larger diameter than the ones used on the 1st gen trucks.

I went with the wheel cylinder from the 2nd gen trucks on my 1992, but I got the big ones for my 2000 truck. I don't have any rear lockup issues, but since I'm not sure what differences there are in the brake systems on the 1st gens vs. the 2nd gens, it's possible you might experience it on your 1st gen.

 

How do you do this mark? I think i need to do that but i never see a lot about it (and i dont know much about abs)

 

i run a 2wd and always go with the 1 1/8" cylinders and 3" brakes.most likely you will have to turn the drums.i remove the abs valve on the frame also.some people don't like doing that,but i never had any problems doing that.and i think the truck stops better at least for me.

 

A D250 should have the 1" wheel cylinders from the factory.

I have to disagree about the RWAL dump valve. I like having ABS, it has kept the rear behind me several times. I will fix it RIGHT if it ever fails.

 

JBradley500, first off, I haven't had to do one myself, but I did own a truck that had it done.
IIRC, the inlet line into the dump valve is a different size than the line out of the valve, to the "rubber" flex line on the axle.
If you can remove both lines without damaging them, then add a short, premade section of steel line with the flare nuts already on them.
I would make the spliced section the size of the front line and adapt it down to the smaller size with proper fittings designed for brake line use.

Avoid having to cut and reflare if you can, if not, have someone do it that will stand behind their flare work, OR replace the whole section from front to rear and to the axle flex line.
Once it's done, the repair job should be tied up rigidly to the frame with clips designed for brake lines.

Just doing this will make it brake more effectively, BUT if the ABS valve is working properly, meaning No ABS/Brake light and the dump valve works properly (Test it in a controlled "lock attempt" braking test on grass, dirt or gravel), I suggest leaving it alone.

Finding the high pressure hydraulic repair parts for the ABS system would prove to be a challenge, as most parts are either non-supported in the aftermarket or non-rebuildable.
When you think about the liabilities involved with brakes, it's not so hard to understand why there are very few, if any, companies that do "rebuilt/remanfactured" specialized parts like ABS motors, ABS surge valves, etc.

Heck, even an ABS wheel sensor on a later model car costs a bundle!

Mark.

 

All of the component parts of this system are readily available, Rockauto and others have them...Mark

 

That hasn't been my experience, personally.
Feel free to share the part numbers for the various pieces, dump valve, rear ABS axle sensor, ABS module, etc.

Mark.

 

Here is all the stuff Rockauto has for a 90 w250...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...52FWheel%2BHub

Mark