I've been looking through the stickies and searching the internet here, but I can't find a list of what size metric allen wrenches you need to get the IP open.

I want to put in that 366 spring while the head is off the engine, it looks to be a much easier task that way.

TIA.

 

Here you are,

The bolts on the top of the VE pump are 5mm; the back one is a bit difficult to get straight on so you will need the Metric Hex key set with the ball on the end so you can remove the bolt with the hex key off axis.

The only problem that I see with doing your pump now is that for some reason you have some problems getting your truck to start and run after you get the head back on it will be much easier to diagnose if only one part of the truck has been disturbed.

I am not saying you personally but if you have not done it before some people can have all kind of problems trying to get the truck started after they install the 366 spring in their pump, I think the main problem most people have is they don't get the throttle shaft indexed correctly second to getting air in the system. But this is just my opinion.
Jim

 

Thanks ! What size Allen wrench do you use to get the big one off of the throttle levers ? It's bigger than my biggest Allen, a 1/4" one.

Yeah, I've thought about the getting it fired back up issue quite a bit.

That back allen nut and the idle screw look like they will be a breeze to get off with the head removed, is the thing. A trade-off. I'm still undecided.

 

I think the big one is 8 mm.

 

This may be a bit off-topic for this thread here, but you brought up the issue of getting air into the system. The whole thing is going to have to be bled anyway with all the lines off.

When I had a GM/Detroit 6.2L, the common practice was to supply 5-10psi compressed air to the return line from the IP and bleed the air back out that way instead of running your batteries down using the starter.

Is this done on the Cummins 5.9 ?

 

Good morning Dave nice to see you up at this hour.
I think you are right about the size.

Jim

 

I can't understand why anybody would blow air into the system.

Generally cranking the engine for 15-20 seconds with the injector lines loose, then tightening them will get it fired. If it doesn't fire off, then you loosen 3, crank, loosen the other three and tighten the first set and try again. If that does not produce results, a little shot of ether works wonders.

 

F1 is actually interesting this year with the new aero package and the optional KERS system.

 

When I had my 6.2 and got air in the line I would just crank it and feed it with WD-40 into the intake with the Glow Plugs disconnected and it would usually fire fairly quickly.

I had dual tanks and not paying attention I would always run one empty and suck air into the pump so I built an onboard WD-40 injector instead of ether with a button in the cab, I could give it a shot and run the engine on it until it would purge the air and restart.

Also before I had my Chevy diesel I had gassers and I was a mechanic, I set up my truck with a diverter valve on the smog pump so I could connect what looked like a long vacuum cleaner hose from my pump into the filler neck on any truck and purge the fuel through the system with low pressure high CFM air.
Jim

 

I just did my spring yesterday and like they said the four that hold the cover on, 5mm. And the big one on the throttle lever is 8mm. Mine sputtered a few seconds then fired right up.

 

I also added this information to my last article for future reference.
Jim

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=239076

 

Mmmkay. Borrowed a 5mm and a 8mm Allen wrench tonight, and got to it.

Installing the 366 spring was a piece of cake, but getting all that stuff back on the throttle shaft is, um, kind of daunting.

The thing is, it was all filthy and worn out. I think part 306, the coiled spring at the top, might have broke off a piece at the end, it was so corroded.

And installing part 220, the bigger spring, on top of the plastic gizmo, part 325, is confusing, too. I'm not sure where to hook both ends of the spring on to, top or bottom.

The other parts I kept on top of each other exactly as they came off of the shaft, so as to make it easier to get it back together later on.

Honestly, the whole assembly on top of that throttle shaft was so crusty and old...I sprayed it down with PB but it's still gross...I'm tempted to head up to my local pump shop (where I bought the 366 governor spring) and get all new springs and stuff for that sub-assembly. If the end of 306 indeed broke off, I have to go there anyway...

 

Yep. Spring 306 is broken. And Cummins does not sell VE44 parts, I went by there while at work tonight.

Seeing as I need to re-assemble all the stuff on top of the throttle shaft tomorrow after I hopefully find a spring, can you guys recommend good threads on here with pics of how everything goes together ?

I found the exploded diagram, but it's not as good as pics of the process would be.,,

 

It's best to completely degrease the pump and that corner of the engine prior to doing a governor spring install. I think ether is the best if you don't have compressed air because it will evaporate quickly. I'm guessing the spring 306 you're talking about is the breakover spring. About $15 from a Bosch shop. The Bosch part number for is has been posted many times, so a search would quickly bring it up.

 

I noticed my butterfly spring had a notch worn about 1/3 of the way through on one of the wings where it contacts that shaft. While I had it apart, I flipped the spring over so it can spend the next 150K wearing the other half!