Thought I had the overcharging licked but it came back today. Had to make a 200 mile round trip and I got down the road 8 miles where I pulled in to refuel and the battery gauge was closing in on 16. I have a spare vr mounted right next to the bad one. Plugged in the spare and made the rest of the trip no problem.I put the two vrs right next to the battery so I wouldn't have to climb over the engine to change it. I have extra grounds 1 from neg battery to engine block,2 cables neg battery to body one cable body to alt bracket. I've tried all the available vrs from the original black mopar to the parts stores to the so called adjustable which was the most expensive and lasted a week. I don't really want a one wire but I'm out of options. Some where I read something about putting a relay in one of the wires. Anyone know about that?

 

What you do is use your keyed hot from the vr to switch the relay then run battery voltage thru the relay to the hot side of the vr.

 

What nonrev said should fit the issue.

 

OK guys thanks this will be my last ditch effort before going to a one wire.

 

Do the mod, that Vern spoke of, then install a fresh Mopar VR and you should be good to go.

 

I know what your describing but can't visualize the way the wires hookup

 

Basically you are looking at getting the real voltage sent to the VR rather than relying on the OEM wire harness with its long length, multiply connections and old wires to get the voltage to the VR.
The OEM wires can show lower voltage than the battery really has.

This causes the VR to over charge the battery as it is reading a lower voltage than the battery really has.

 

OK got it 20 amp enough? Took a while for the light to click on but I just woke up.

 

unplugged the 2 wire vr connector and with key on I have 12volts on both wires

 

Ive got 12v on both wires with switch on and unplugged from vr. What now?

 

Also check the connectors on the fat V+ wire from the alternator. Two of them; bullet-like connectors. I have had mine go all green and crusty inside. Cleaned them up and back to normal.

 

When you unplug the connector you remove the load. Then when you measure the voltage you won't see any voltage drop. You need to measure it at the VR with it plugged in. My guess is that with a load the voltage will drop about 1-1/2 volts. So say 10.5 volts with the engine not running. However the alternator will boost that up to 12.7 - 14 volts with the engine running.

What the object of the relay is is to get the true battery voltage on the VR WITHOUT going through the ignition switch. So you run it through the N/O contacts and the original wire from the ignition to the relay coil. When the ignition is on the relay energizes and connects the battery directly to the VR. This makes the system run accurately to put the proper charging voltage on the battery.

If you can't figure it out I can draw you a picture but I have to then scan it and upload it to this thread. Let me know and I'll be happy to do it.

Edwin

 

Thanks Edwin, I hadn't had my coffee yet when I answered and after reading it even I was kinda confused

 

Edwin that would help a lot. the relay instructions are vague as are the online wiring diagrams

 

Thanks Edwin that would help.The instructions with the relay are in tecnlcal drawing term and online instructions are geared toward stereo installs