deere country

Again their transmission only addresses they effects of the 5th gear problem not the cause. There is no fix to it, it's a design flaw as 5th gear is NOT inside the transmission case.

Remember that price only gets you a trans and not a bellhousing, clutch fork, shifter, or the core charge.

Yes the getrag utilizes a different adapter plate than the nv4500 along with a different starter. As to not being able to speed shift it you can its just not going to like it over time and it will cause you problems down the road. If your set on speed shifting why not stick with the auto trans that is already in the truck.

I am sure you have a np205 t-case in your truck it's just a matter of which spline input cluster you have in your t-case. You can ask the original owner what he did I would also ask him if he has any of the original parts from the swap. That is the only way you would find out what you have without taking it apart to learn what you have.

Do you know for a fact that your auto is the 47rh or could it be the a518 that would have been in the truck if it was order with an auto when new?

maybe368

Yup. I am about to defend the lowly Getrag . I have to say first that most of the grenaded getrags out there died from the lack of lubrication leading to heat buildup, leading to bearing failure problem. That said. it usually lasted many hundreds of thousands of miles before grenading. There is also a fix for that by overfilling it, or like I did, add 3-4 quart capacity to it and it will think it's in Alaska. The cause of low mileage failure after a "rebuild" is not getting the preload correct during reassembly. This is not from experience, but from reading great threads on the subject here on DTR. As far as speed shifting, not gonna happin' with a 3 foot long shifter ...Mark

edwinsmith

Is it a loose preload on the GetRag that causes problems or to tight? When I got my rebuild it rattles in neutral. The trans guy at the shop tried to tell me that it was the throwout bearing but I had a master mechanic put a stethoscope on it and the rattle is coming from the trans.

maybe368

I am not the guy to answer that, but I believe it is set too tight. That is from reading the threads. I believe that it was Brian, Tcows, that did the write up on setting the preloads, but I could be wrong. My getrag gave up the ghost in front of Marana HS on I10 around midnight. I was towing my boat and I was left halfway blocking traffic. I called 911 and they got there quick, as well as the wrecker. I never took it apart and still have it.

I was sitting in my home around 5 AM and found a factory rebuilt Getrag on eBay for 600 dollars, pretty lucky. One of these days I am going to take it apart to see what happened...Mark

thrashingcows

I have never done a specific thread on preloads, but have preached about making sure your pre-loads are set correctly. They can be tedious and a bit of a PITA to set properly...but if you look at the life span between rebuilds of maybe 50-75K miles on a poorly set pre-load, and 250K miles on a well set unit it makes sense to take the time to do it right.

Those numbers are just from threads I have found and research done on-line. Many people complain about the short life of these trannies...getrag and NV4500, but then you dig into what they have done.....swapped main shaft to larger unit...did not re-set the preload etc.

I have almost 100K km's (65K miles) on my NV4500 rebuild I did in my garage....so far so good.

NJTman

Sprayed the undercarriage with Oxalic Acid and pressure washed it all off.


That stuff is amazing. I used to by it locally at the hardware store, but I found that an Amazon supplier from FLA has it, and it's way cheaper. I used to pay $9 for 12 oz of the stuff. I paid $15 for 5 lbs of it. Woo Hoo, that will last a couple of winters.





2 to 3oz per gallon of water is just enough to neutralize the salt and leave the surface clean. Just want to remember to flush fresh water in the pump up sprayer, so that the sprayer works the next time you use it

edwinsmith

I just got finished burning the old trailer hitch off the back bumper. I have a new receiver hitch unit I'm going to install when I get finished grinding the slag down smooth.

I'm debating whether I want to bolt the new unit on or weld it or both. Any ideas?

NJTman

A bumper hitch should have a 500 lb tongue weight, at minimum. Grade 8 bolts should be fine. Don't want to go with a frame mount hitch? You can fit a class 4 on there, and have a 1600 lb tongue weight and a 16000 lb trailer weight

1stGEN'93

Tried to install the Diamond Eye 4" exhaust. Stopped as they didn't provide a hanger for the downpipe. I don't care to not have one and have an exhaust flange break. Starting to wonder if I should have spent an extra $100 for the FLO-PRO system. I called Diamond Eye, but the guy that could answer my question (supposedly), wasn't there. They said I would hear back from him tomorrow.

edwinsmith

My back bumper is a custom made from a 6 inch channel iron and braced up to hold most anything. It's bolted to the frame but I'm going to add a couple more 1/2 inch bolts to make 3 on each side. The receiver I got at Harbor Freight is rated at 5000 pounds (Haul Master item 67158) and is built on 1/4 inch plate which will bolt up to my bumper just fine. According to the label it has a 500 pound tongue weight rating. This seems conservative given it's heft.

thrashingcows

After having to remove a custom welded 5th wheel plate and brackets mounted under the box on the crewcab, I will always bolt stuff on.

NJTman

Well then, big fella....


Show us what ya got!

edwinsmith

Here's one. I can get a closer one tomorrow.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/g/picture/7566858

NJTman

Nice beefy bumper



No I don't mean your nalgas

BHD

I'll jump on this Getrag Supporter Bandwagon. I have used and abused the ones in my trucks, and have only had one issue in 12 years after converting my 1990 W250.

If I am correct, the pre-load on these needs to be tight as there are taper rollers on both ends of the main shaft that will wear in slightly over time. If its set too loose the main input gear, that drives the countershaft, will not have proper teeth engagement with the countershaft, and fail. (someone can correct me if I am wrong on this)

I had a 3rd gear roll pin work loose in the 3rd gear shift fork recently and when I pulled the toploader off the Getrag I noticed that the preload was incorrect due to wear and improper assembly. Lucky for me I was able to dress the teeth that were damaged and had it rebuilt to the tighter end of the preload spectrum and I expect to get another 12 years of service out of it.


If you expect to build a hotrod truck that you and rip through the gears, get a later six speed NV5600, you have to buy a full swap kit anyways, you could go big from the start.