What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#137
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I filled the tubes with oil before I installed them, but after a few months, I guess it dissipates.
The dana 70 axle tube has a slot in it so you can convert the "nylock" washers to the twin washers as used on the front of the truck.
The only aftermarket washers available are these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-618-046
When I went to remove the outer nut, the washer sheared off it's inner ring tab, even though I disengaged the outer retainer flap
The dana 70 axle tube has a slot in it so you can convert the "nylock" washers to the twin washers as used on the front of the truck.
The only aftermarket washers available are these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-618-046
When I went to remove the outer nut, the washer sheared off it's inner ring tab, even though I disengaged the outer retainer flap
#138
Registered User
T,
I would use the new style nut set-up with the slotted round nuts and locking pin. The keyed washer is quite a bit heavier than the old style lock washer you have shown. Two things that can cause the lock washer key to shear: insufficient tightening of the lock-nut, and a worn spindle. The inner race starts to walk more when the spindle diameter gets worn.
As for the brake cables: In my experience, the problem with the aftermarket cables is that the plastic liner is garbage -- it is way to soft, and not bonded well to the cable or inside of the sheath, depending on the style. Running a stainless cable in the crap sheaths wouldn't do squat -- the sheath would just rust & bond to the stainless.
Lokar makes some SS kits, and I have been thinking of buying one & adapting it -- but they are pricey. As for water in the sheath, I fill the cables up with synthetic brake grease when I install them. I still have a lot of rust swelling problems, but never enough water in there to freeze.
I feel your pain.
I would use the new style nut set-up with the slotted round nuts and locking pin. The keyed washer is quite a bit heavier than the old style lock washer you have shown. Two things that can cause the lock washer key to shear: insufficient tightening of the lock-nut, and a worn spindle. The inner race starts to walk more when the spindle diameter gets worn.
As for the brake cables: In my experience, the problem with the aftermarket cables is that the plastic liner is garbage -- it is way to soft, and not bonded well to the cable or inside of the sheath, depending on the style. Running a stainless cable in the crap sheaths wouldn't do squat -- the sheath would just rust & bond to the stainless.
Lokar makes some SS kits, and I have been thinking of buying one & adapting it -- but they are pricey. As for water in the sheath, I fill the cables up with synthetic brake grease when I install them. I still have a lot of rust swelling problems, but never enough water in there to freeze.
I feel your pain.
#139
Registered User
If you are not already aware, you can use the same locking nut design as the front D60. Only one socket needed and IMO they are a better design.
http://www.partsmike.com/index.php?c...on=show_detail
I too have been through a couple sets of e-brake cables, frustrating to say the least!
#140
Registered User
If you are not already aware, you can use the same locking nut design as the front D60. Only one socket needed and IMO they are a better design.
http://www.partsmike.com/index.php?c...on=show_detail
I too have been through a couple sets of e-brake cables, frustrating to say the least!
http://www.partsmike.com/index.php?c...on=show_detail
I too have been through a couple sets of e-brake cables, frustrating to say the least!
#141
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I squirted penetrating oil on some bolts.
#142
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Fenders off, core support off,( now looking for core support bushings ), pressure washed and ready to start KDP kill. Still finishing up the winch bumper. Ready to take the bed off to put my flatbed and liftgate on.
90% done and 90% to go.
Mike
90% done and 90% to go.
Mike
#143
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Didn't know i this truck had KDP done when I got it. Glad I checked. Dowel pin still in place, but two bolts in housing loose. I have ixed all o that and now I will sleep better,( hopeully not when I am driving ).
I ordered a ready sleeve and front crank seal. Crank has a groove where the seal rides. Cleaned and touched up all I could get to.
Mike
I ordered a ready sleeve and front crank seal. Crank has a groove where the seal rides. Cleaned and touched up all I could get to.
Mike
#144
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Man, i wish i kew that the front spindle locking nuts fit. I would have bought them years ago
#145
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Today, I dumped my Trans fluid and filled it with new. 2 gallons with the deep pan I have from derale. With the secondary filter under the hood, I rarely have to change the filter. Considering it's only about 9 months old, it was relatively clean. Enough discoloration to be worth changing, but I always refresh the fluids after a heavy winter because of snow plowing.
Believe it or not, the fluid runs cooler after changing. Normally, I'm at about 150*F, but since it's been changed, it's now running <135*F
weird huh ?
Believe it or not, the fluid runs cooler after changing. Normally, I'm at about 150*F, but since it's been changed, it's now running <135*F
weird huh ?
#146
Hella headlight relay mod
Did the headlight relay mod I found here...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...176263p10.html
It was a lot more involved than I had guessed. I put Hella's on it, added 2 relays with a 3rd for fogs one day, and replaced my headlight switch. I had to grind out the back of the headlight buckets so the seals that came with them would fit. Also added the diode so the low beams stay on with the high beams.
http://www.myhellalights.com/index.p...sion-headlamp/
Just need some dark to try them out.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...176263p10.html
It was a lot more involved than I had guessed. I put Hella's on it, added 2 relays with a 3rd for fogs one day, and replaced my headlight switch. I had to grind out the back of the headlight buckets so the seals that came with them would fit. Also added the diode so the low beams stay on with the high beams.
http://www.myhellalights.com/index.p...sion-headlamp/
Just need some dark to try them out.
#147
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Got my ready sleeve installed and the KDP fixed. Took the bed off. Moving the flatbed in to finish it up and install it. I will run the cable for the liftgate tomorrow. Wow, it's coming together.
Missed a couple of days to go to a Military Vehicle show and chat with my good friend Val, ( simplysmn ). Great day and great vehicles.
Mike
Missed a couple of days to go to a Military Vehicle show and chat with my good friend Val, ( simplysmn ). Great day and great vehicles.
Mike
#148
Registered User
Did tranny flush and discovered more metal in pan than past changes (not a lot but more than in the past and aluminum). Guess that grinding noise I've been hearing means something is really going on. App. with tranny folks next week Hope I caught it early enough and it didn't trash the tail cone housing.
#149
Ordered a new radio from Crutchfield....
I'll let you know
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_068NEWP...t.html?tp=5684
I'll let you know
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_068NEWP...t.html?tp=5684