Jim Lane

Another day, another leak,

For the last few days me truck begin leaving small puddles of oil whenever I stopped, I thought it might have been the new power steering hose that I had just installed, however after using a mirror and a flashlight I found it was coming from the front of my power steering pump,

I went to OReilly's and bought a new power steering pump and I was going to install it on Saturday.

I went home and took the steering pump off the engine, this was the easy part using a 15mm swivel socket from below and a box end wrench from the top and a 16mm wrench on the fitting nut.

Thanks to the great write up in the sticky, that Jim Lane made showed me exactly how to remove the gear from the pump shaft.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...orking-165546/

Now for the next 8 hours I spent going through my garage and every junk box trying to find the special bolts needed to remove the drive gear from the vacuum pump.

It is now after 3:00 P.M. and King Bolt had closed just an hour ago.




Monday I went to King Bolt with my vacuum/ power steering pump in a box and went to go and buy some new bolts.

Everyone in the store was watching me explain how the pump gear is removed and explain how it works and an older biker guy with a ponytail says "you sure sound like you are proud of that engine and what you drive, I know exactly how you feel"



Since my lower vacuum chamber has not been in service since around 2007 I decided to remove it and design a block off plate.

Using a sawzall I rough cut my block off plate from a piece of 1/2" aluminum and drilled the mounting holes for the bolts.



Then I went to QBI it is a place where I buy my industrial bearings and matched up the O-rings used in the vacuum pump.



This is the hardware needed to both remove and reinstall the drive gear from the non intercooled vacuum pump.

The bolt is an M14-2.0X55mm
3/8"-16 X 4.0 inch stud,
3/8" grade 8 hex nut
flat washers grade 8
Large o-ring end of pump housing. # 128 1 1/2" OD X 1 11/16" ID (not shown)
Smaller o-ring under vacuum chamber. #212 1 1/4" OD X 7/8" ID (not shown)



Here is another view of the hardware.

I spent $30.00 at King Bolt today and got enough parts to build myself 2 complete sets of gear pullers,

I put them in a ziplock bag and put them away with the rest of my specialty tools for my truck.

Now I will find my missing bolts and I will have 3 sets.

I also bought a handful of stainless steel bolts to replace a lot of the hardware on the engine for to look nice.



After everything has been cleaned, reworked a new o-ring installed in the vacuum pump housing, the gear is reinstalled, using the hardened stud, the gear is drawn onto the shaft using an impact, very carefully.



Here I am checking the installed depth of the properly installed gear



Depth of properly installed gear.



I cut out and punched a gasket for my block off plate and secured it onto the pump housing.

Amazing how much room that thing takes under the engine.



Has anyone installed an auxillary A2F cooler inline with the return on their trucks, maybe you snowplow guys?

I think have a Rapid Cool engine oil cooler from an old project I could use,
how about a magnefine filter?

https://magnefinefilters.com/NEW-Mag...8M-3810000.htm

Jim

1972RedNeck

I do run a filter on most of my junk - no cooler though and I have never had any evidence of needing one, but I mostly just cruise (at a rapid pace) down the open road.

Jim Lane

Hey guys,
Where can I find a passenger side door latch for my truck?
The spring broke on mine and the latch will not pop open when the handle is pulled.

Are there any new ones being made?

Dorman

Thanks Jim

Alec

LMC Catalogue

Spendy, but at least they list it.

I would be curious as to the quality. That is one of those assemblies where not all little stamped pieces of metal are equal.

Blue Goose

Oliver

Jim Lane

Over the weekend I set out to try and find where all of the rattles and squeaks are coming from, I found and fixed a few and others I still have to fix,

The first one was pretty easy to find looking under the back of the truck, I took my spare tire down when I had my truck worked on several years ago still have not had the energy to put it back, so I simply removed the carrier.

I need to replace the pivot bolt when I re hang it but I am in no hurry
Don't really need it unless I need to leave town, I have only had one flat/ blow out on my truck since I have had it and I always keep Michelin tires on it, I can always throw it in the back or I can use one of my duals.



I also have this small crack in my frame rail directly in front of my steering box, it has been here for quite a while but I need to repair it, I have both MIG and Stick welders or I can take it to a frame shop if there is something tricky about it.

Other than drilling out the ends of the crack and welding the rail, is there a brace I can install here to strengthen the rail?







And here is the last crack I have found, the motor mount bracket,

Looks like I am getting some movement where the frame bolt is getting rust, I will remove, clean and re torque the bolts here.



I also found I have a few new cowl cracks thanks to our sucky California Highways that they claim are the worst in the nation, thank you Governor.

Has anyone reproduced a copy of the OEM cowl patches yet?
LMG?

This adds the my door latch delema and my parking brake pedal that I broke.

It looks like I need to go shopping for parts soon.

Jim

oliver foster

Jim,
I just made something similar to the OEM cowl patch out of some metal I cut out of a old bed. I death wheeled it out, hammered in into shape and welded it up.

Jim Lane

Oliver,
About what gauge is the sheet metal did you use?

What do you think about this?
I was thinking of making a sheet metal patch that covers all of the possible cracks and then bond it to the cowl using a high strength panel bonding adhesive, pop rivet into place in several places to hold it while the adhesive cures.

If I make the patch wide enough and rough up the sheet metal to be bonded, then the bonded thickness of the cowl might be about 10-gauge.

Here is what I was thinking of using,

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...4937275&rt=rud

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1...e-brochure.pdf

It's too bad I do not know anybody close enough that could get me a plaster cast of a truck cowl where I could make a positive to use for a model to make my patch.

Just thinking out loud here.

Jim

bigragu

Jim, I just saw you inquiry if anyone has installed an in-line cooler for the PS fluid. I installed a 12” long round one, a heat sink type, from Summit. It was a Derale 3” round finned, aluminum cooler, with 3/8” in/out ports on one end. It came with mount flanges, and I easily mounted it behind my front bumper, drivers side, by piggybacking one side of the cooler onto the bolt of the black bumper pad that comes stock on my 93.

On the other end of the cooler I drilled thru the bumper and thru bolted using stainless hardware. With the shine of the bumper you can’t even notice the two bolt heads on the bumper at all.

peckens

Ram vans are the same and 1st gen Dakotas are almost the same but you have to do a 15 minute obvious modification to the latch.

Jim Lane

Ok guys so it has been about 7 months now since I went through the top end, I had replaced the head and had my turbo professionally rebuilt and balanced, and the truck has been running fine.

Then remember in April I lost another cheap Spectra Fuel Pump on my way to Pasadena and dumped about a half gallon of diesel fuel into my crankcase, I had no way of knowing just how long I had been driving with diluted oil in my crankcase, it probably could have been for a few weeks or more but I know it was less than 5000 miles.

But anyway I replaced the fuel pump, dumped the mess and filled it with fresh Rotella and a Wix filter, everything seemed fine.

Or so I thought, last week I had to make a run out to Rialto about 40 miles away and on my way home I was able to cruise between 75-85 mph, when I got near home I pulled off the off ramp and as I was sitting at the light next to a tractor trailer, I saw a big cloud of blue gray smoke drifting past me and the tractor trailer in the next lane completely disappeared.

The onboard video system on my truck allows me to see the entire right side of my truck including my tailpipe and I could see smoke billowing from my exhaust, I pulled into a parking lot to see what had happened, checking the dipstick, it was where I had left it, weird thing as before, it only smokes at an idle, not while I was moving.

So I got home and let it cool down.

First thing that I did was to remove the v-band and remove the downpipe and just as I suspected, the turbine outlet was full of oil,



So now I was thinking the worst case so I pulled out the thermocouple for the pyrometer from the manifold and it was dry so now I know the oil was not coming from a cylinder but just the turbo again!



My 4" Diamond Eye downpipe was wet with oil,



So within a few minutes I had the turbocharger removed from the engine and sitting in my drain pan,
And now the real damage became apparent.



When I reached in and grasp the shaft to check the end play,
I was surprised,
I was in awe about the side play,

I could move the compressor end about 1/8" side to side, the only thing that was stopping it was the compressor wheel grinding on the side of the housing.

See the damage to the compressor wheel blades.



So now all kinds of things are going through my head, first, how am I going to come up with another $400.00 to have it replaced..
So I borrowed my wife's car and we took it back to ADP/BECS where I had them rebuild it last time.

I walk it with my tail between my legs and set it up on the counter, the tech comes over and ask what can I help you with?
I ask him to check it, I think the bearing are out and it is leaking oil and I ask him if he can rebuild it for me again and how soon can I get it back, this was a Thursday about 10:00 A.M.

I ask him what he think might have happened and he said he will tell me for sure when I pick it up but it looks like contamination, maybe an injector or an injection pump, I said I lost a cheap lift pump.
He said yes that will do it.

I filled out the paperwork and ask him how much will it hurt me, he said he will rebuild it as under warranty and I can pick it up tomorrow lunch time.

I went home, all of the oil had been draining out of the engine since last night, so I replaced the drain plug and refilled it with 3 gallons of Rotella 15W-40 under his recommendation, he said it cleans and clings better.

I did not have time to buy the Wix filter so I had my nephew bring me one home from his Heavy Truck Parts Company (BPS) that he owns, I picked it up that evening at his house, I ask him how much for the filter as I hand him a $20.00 and he says I told you, it was only five dollars and you are covered.

That evening I got everything ready on the truck except for the turbo.
Friday comes and we went to pick it up, he brings out my new re rebuild H1d and sets it on the bench, he said it defiantly was fuel contamination in the lube oil, the bearings were burned out and once there is any side play, the oil piston ring burns out.

Fresh rebuilt and balanced H1d



I took the turbo home and had it installed on the engine in about 45 minuets, pumped in 6 ounces of clean oil through the oil line and turned the wheel a dozen times.

I disconnected the FSS and turned the engine over till I had oil pressure, reconnected the FSS and started it up.

Checked it for any leaks and closed the hood.

I have no idea just how long the truck was driven with the oil contaminated but I know it was absolutely less than 5000 miles because that was when I installed the new turbo and the new fuel pump is a little over 2 1/2 months old.

I did not replace the fuel pump when I replaced the turbo this time but I need to do something,

My plan is to install a piston pump.

Is there any way that fuel can leak into the crankcase side on a piston pump?

where is the best place to get one, I want to avoid any possible problems and get a genuine Cummins pump, not a knock off.

Is there a kit that has the spacer and fuel line.

The other day when it was 116* and I had the AC on I noticed my engine started to idle a bit rough for a few minutes now it feels like I lost a few RPM's and I am afraid it is the fuel pump again.

Something that I want to install is a prelube on my turbo to charge it before I start and maybe take over if my oil pressure drops below a set point.

My adventure continues.
Jim

oliver foster

Jim,
Like I said when we chatted last week. I got a complete piston pump kit from THD, but I see them on Dieseltuffs web site as well. I just got them from THD as he was having a great sale on them. Both will set you up with the spacer, two gaskets HVLP LP and the needed line to the filter head. I think there might even be some washers for the banjo bolt at the filter head.

edwinsmith

Jim:

From my looking at the piston pumps I don't see how they can leak fuel into the crankcase.

I got mine from DieselTuff because he tests and adjusts them for 14 psi especially for the VE injection pump. As you know my previous pump put out way to much pressure and popped the front seal out of the VE and filled my crankcase. I think it happened so quickly and I was notified by the poor fellow on the motorbike who was covered with fuel/oil mix, that it didn't do any damage. But I was extremely lucky.

Given that the conventional lift pumps are designed such that when the diaphragm goes fuel exits directly into the crankcase it would be foolish to use one given they probably all come from China.

You need the spacer and the fuel line from the pump to the filter also. If I had to do it again I'd just buy the kit.

Edwin

oliver foster

I tested the pump from THD with a fuel pressure gauge and got 15 PSI.
I now have HVLP LPs on 3 different 1st gen trucks.

ZAAR

you know a few months back I had a lot of issues with my
lift pump and tracing down air leaks and I've now fixed all that but what I found out at first was a multitude of things 1. the clamps at the inlet outlet or feed return should be changed and those small lengths of hose do get rather nasty after a while. 2. the Lift pumps that you get from whatever parts stores you trace down have some serious issues besides the diaphragm taking a number 2 and dumping fuel the seams where the casting marks are have a tendency to crack and not show until you really inspect it where as I had to and lost my cool after I ripped apart my whole fuel system not knowing where the air was coming from.


so here goes my idea block off the LP with plate and gasket and install an electric lp , bypass the hardline from the LP and install the correct thread pitch barb fittings where the banjo bleed bolt is so you can still use your factory filter,


I had to do this to figure out where my leak was and it worked marvelously
(mad scientist laugh).


Now I know Jim you were talking about a PreLube system well I have one installed on my truck, issues I have lol (the controller has dip switches to set for run intervals, start stop yadda yadda.) 1am controller is prelubing the oil system I wake up in a panic as I think someone has figured how to open my deathtrap door and is trying to start my truck!!! next issue is the battery is now drained from lubing the crap out of my truck. but one great thing is that it does decrease wear on the engine and cools the turbo, there is the ability to do quick oil changes using the pump and removing the upper hose to dump into the container of your choice.
just make sure your hoses if you decide to go this route are able to handle heat and oil and can withstand that hard duration.


so just an FYI.
im sure there are other that have systems like this.


the system I have is defunct since I think 92 or so preluber.