I finally found a tank (awfully similar to Coolingmists ) and had a chance to mount it in the toolbox. Here's a couple pics...









and a shot of the new dual nozzle setup...



The 1/2" flex cover doesn't actually run through the hole in the toolbox like the pics make it look. There is a 3/8" rubber grommet with some clear silicone that the wires/tubing run through. I wanted to keep all of the components isolated from the weather and make sure the toolbox stays sealed up tight. The water/meth mix also got very hot when it was located under the hood and having it a good 50*+ cooler can only help.

 

You should be good to go with that setup. I was finally able to see signs of the motor bogging with the total ~33gph of flow I now have between the two nozzles. I had to bypass the pressure switch on the pump and run it at 100% duty % in the software to get it to bog. David at Coolingmist says that is not really good for the pump and to lower it to 70%-80% duty % in the software. I lowered it to 80% and didn't notice much of a difference, so I think the system is pretty well optimized at this point.

I would just like to say that David at Coolingmist has been really great in making sure the system works to it's full potential on my truck. He has gone out of his way and answered my calls and emails on the weekend and late at night. I would say you absolutely can't go wrong with Coolingmist, as they have proved that they really stand behind their product. Thank you David and everyone at Coolingmist!

 

I'm glad its working for you. I do believe I made a slight mistake by telling you that you need to run it at 70-80% duty cycle. The 70 to 80% duty cycle is what we tested with 1 of those nozzles. You have 2 of those nozzles in your vehicle so there should be no problem at all running it at 100% duty cycle. Im sorry about the confusion on that. What we are doing is benchmarking each nozzle size with our test rig.

So to be clear, 100% dutycycle with 2 nozzles on your setup will be fine.

Again...Im glad its working for you.

EDIT: I looked at your picture and noticed your water filter is on the high pressure side. You SHOULD change that. It causes a restriction in the line and will limit flow. If you put it between the tank and pump you will get a nice increase in flow.


BTW...The Diesel Truck Resource Store now carries Coolingmist Diesel Products anyone interested please check out the store.

 

Really? I assumed it would flow better if the pump was "forcing" the water/meth through the filter, as opposed to trying to draw through the filter with suction? That seems like it would restrict the supply to the pump. Doesn't the same amount of fluid have to run through the filter either way?

I was also wondering if having a much larger supply line from the tank to the pump would increase flow at all?

 

On the high pressure side anything on the high pressure side will cause a restriction, its a fact. On the low pressure side it makes no difference.

Im not saying that you are going to get 20 more psi, but you will certainly get more pressure if you switch it to the other side. yes the same amount of fluid has to go through it, but remember the water filter has a 40 micron filter. There is a brass element that has a honeycomb style brass element. So the high pressure gets disrupted as it hits the element.

I am going to have our tech manager run some tests next week with and without the filter on the high pressure side to see exact differences. Im fairly certain there will be a pressure drop if its on the high pressure side.

Putting a larger supply line from the tank will do nothing. Actually, it will make it take longer to inititally inject the water (as it takes more volume to fill the hose). Once the hose is full there will be no difference except when you run out of water it may take an extra second to run completely out (because of the greater volume). The reason being, you have 2 injectors that can run a maximum flow. That flow is related directly to the pump pressure. As long as the line can flow MORE than what the maximum flow of your 2 nozzles, anything larger is a waste.



David

 

Well I'm running two of the 16gph nozzles now.

And have relocated the filter to the suction side of the pump (I know some folks who'd do well to refine the printed instructions).

I've not modified the system otherwise. There's definitely a jump in boost pressure when the W/M comes on-line. I'd installed a manual boost controller last week and can only imagine where the boost pressure would be without.

@ jrussell: Your install looks very nice. Pretty much duplicates mine. I had thought of locating the tanks and pump as you have but wanted to get the pump as low as I could to the tank so as to help ensure constant, if not quick pump priming. I ran the same flex but in two continuous 10' pieces from the pump to up the backside of the drivers fender well. I didn't want to drill a large hole in the bed floor so I opted to go through the side-wall between the front most steak pocket and the beds front wall.
Once I got under the truck and past all the movement of the bed/body, I transitioned to soft copper tubing. I figure it will aid in getting the fog started earlier as there's less ballooning of the tubing system (albeit itty-bitty). . . . . . that and I failed to specify how much tubing I needed when I ordered the system.

I have soooooo gotta get a tighter torque converter.

 

Coolingmist I have a question, theres no way hes running 33gph. He would have hydrolocked by now. The question is 16 gph flow per nozzle, at what pressure ? The two nozzles lower the psi avalible to the nozzles. My nozzles are no where that big and it will bog in a blink of an eye. Now granted I am running a very high pressure, but according to an actual flow test im at 19gph. If he is indeed running a true 33gph hes on borrowed time, and its going to bite him.

BC847 Its only my opinion but i have almost 25 years in w/m inj. you better do a flow test to find out the actual amount of water per hour. At that amount one tiny glitch and your looking for a engine.

 

In the works.

 

The nozzles he has are M14 hybrid that we developed. Two of those are rougly 16 GPH EACH @ 150 psi. the actual flow depends on how much pressure he is getting from the pump with the 2 nozzles.

hydrolock is only an issue if the water flows when you are at idle or gets sucked in during vacuum. Also with a variable control system, he is not always running at 100% duty cycle.

We have many, many, many, many, many, many, many diesels running that much flow, infact we have sold countless tractor pulling packages where they are running 4 - 18 GPH nozzles for just over 1 gallon per minute.

Having said that we know for sure that a single nozzle like he has (16 gph) will produce at least 180 psi at 100% duty cycle. (after 180 our pressure gauge drops out). At 150 PSI his nozzle would be around 16 GPH. Around 180 would even be greater.


having said that, he is not always at 100% duty cycle, so in reality only at full boost he is at 30 + GPH.

His kit was initially supplied with 2 nozzles for a total flow max of 22 GPH. I believe that 32 GPH is alot, however he wants to run the max flow that his engine can handle.

David

 

You absolutly do NOT want to use one injector before the "Y". The inlet system is designed for dry flow, and if you put a single injector before the "Y" you will introduce distribution problems. From the looks of your dual runner setup, the rear leg would get much more of the water because it is more of a straight shot.
Use two injectors pointing straight down.

 

Loch,

I respect your opinion greatly and you have me rather worried now. Is it really possible to hydrolock a motor if it's not even bogging? Once I got signs of bogging I backed it off quite a bit...can I still be injecting too much?

 

Remember that the 30 or so gph is at 150 psi across the nozzle with a pump for each nozzle. You're working one pump through two nozzles against at least 30 psi of backpressure, so the water flow is significantly lower.

Snow rates my nozzles at 10 GPH each, and I can bog the truck easily by turning the pressure switch on the pump up. Something's fishy about somebody's rating system, but I don't think that's really important.

What is important is that if you are not bogging the motor you can't hydro lock it - and if the system is not capable of bogging the motor it's not big enough. It sounds to me like you have the system set up well, you just need to tune it to your truck. I found that after I was done playing around with the setup at WOT, I had to tune it back some more because moderate acceleration at high RPM would kick the sytem on and it would bog the motor due to the lack of fuel. Keep playing with it, as long as you back off when it stumbles you won't hurt it.

 

I'm not sure I am comfortable with the bogging theory of Daves. All I'm saying is, if your putting 33 gph in and your not wide open (if even then) your taking a risk. I do understand that may be a rare thing with coolingmist controler.

Allison V-1710 engine used in wwII p51 mustangs were w/m inj. Thier max inj per gallon is a lot less than 33gph, and at over 8 or 9 k rpm, now that being said, iv worked on these works of art a long time, and i know exactly what to much water can do to a $230,000.00 engine. You guys run at what ever level your comfy with, but i for one wont, im getting 75 hp and almost a 300 degree drop and im no where near that. And last thing 50/50 mix is flammable, if it blows a line under the hood guess what, you better have a big bucket of water.

Coolingmist in my opinion makes the best there is, but i firmly disagree in running so close to the edge with no more benifits. The system i make for my friends and the original on my truck has duplicated my results, so if i can have that kind of increase why super size it ?

OK I'm off my soap box.

 

@ mhuppertz: I'm thinking the same thing. For that reason, I've settled for one nozzle shooting up, and the other nozzle shooting down (they actually shoot at each other).
My thoughts are that there may be, as a result of the twists and turns of the charge air duct-work, concentrations of air flow at the inlet of the intake that may draw more mist to one branch as compared to the other should the nozzles be located on the sides (assuming a conical spray pattern).

I accept the thought that this is a compromise. With my limited testing to date, it all seems to work very well (afternoon showers are limiting my traction).

I'm gonna play with it more today. For my purposes (occasional drag racing), it appears bringing the mist on at about 15psig, and ramping aggressively up to full on at about 20psig seems to work best. This assumes the controllers **** settings are close to in line with actual boost pressures.



You know folks? It's when people get together (as it were) hashing out concepts, ideas, and experience, that things get done. I applaud you all for your input.

 

[QUOTE=BC847 This assumes the controllers **** settings are close to in line with actual boost pressures.


[/QUOTE]

calibrated exactly with a compressor and tested after the units are built.

david