BearKiller,

methanol water injection is just what the doctor ordered. We have a new kit that will be released shortly (stage III). It will allow you to inject based on your EGT. It does come with a commander unit which has a computer interface. If you dont want the computer interface all is not lost....Our stage II controller kit can have our special sender attached to it. So all you need to do is turn the ***** on the front to relate to EGTs. For example....

If you turn the Min **** to the 15 Position, that means 1000 degrees for the start. If you turn the Max **** to 30, that would mean 2000 degrees. In that scenereo it would inject on a variable rate from 1000 F to 2000. Also, it would take an input from your boost so it would only inject if you are above 1 PSI and if you are in the range of your Min/Max *****. You can choose any range from 200 Degrees to 2000 for the starting pressure. It doesn't get any more simple than that.

If want to configure the controller (or have us do it for you) you can make it run off of boost but only when EGTs are at or above a certain EGT as well..So it works either way.



In your application since towing is your deal, you need to inject based on EGTs more than anything,this will fit the bill.


These will be available any day.

 

David,

You have any idea on a price for this addition to the Vari-Cool controller?

Thanks,

Justin

 

If you have an EGT Temp gauge now you should have a K series Sender. That is the typical thermo coupler standard. If thats the case you dont need to buy a sender from us, you will just need our controller attachment. Pricing will be Under $100 for the controller attachment, I dont have exact #s yet. If you need an EGT sender (because you dont have an egt gauge in your vehicle) You will need to purchase one of those also. I'll have pricing in the next few days.

David

 

Wow...that is awesome!

I assume the Autometer 2 1/16" gauges use that type-K sender?

Also, I remember in the installation instructions there was a big warning about not changing the length of the probe wire (shortening or lengthening). Will splicing in wires to the controller affect the gauge calibration or accuracy at all?

 

You will not change the length, you will just attach a wire to the + and one to the -. It will not affect your readout.

AND BTW...You are going to love this. Those that get the hand held commander are gonna really have something cool (pardon the pump). As we finish up our final round of testing, I have to say I am very impressed with this.



David

 

Someone smarter can correct me.

The wire that should not be tampered with, is the actual temperature-resistant lead that is connected to the probe itself.

This lead is only about sixteen inches long; then, it makes a connection to solid copper wire that can be shortened, or lengthened, according to need.

Am I right??

Thanks.

 

With our application we do not recommend to cut, or shorten the wire. There will be a + and - wire on your probe, you simply tap into it.

 

My controller came set at 35% duty cycle start, 100% full on.

Resetting to 40% duty cycle doesn't really net a SOTP difference. For now I'll leave it at 40% as I still have to play with it (on call with work this week ).

 

Ok, here goes....if I overshoot the runnway with this one I aplogize up front....but....

Would'nt it be fair to say that most of us use these trucks in 'muliti purpose' activities like street fun, work, R&R (towing) etc.....

If that is even close to being right then would we benefit significantly by having a system that will allow the W/M turn on/off as needed...but further why not have it sets so that the pecentage of Meth that is being added is varible as well. I mean, you could ease back the Meth when in towing/hauling heavy in the mountains and use the higher "cooling" properties of Water injection with little or no Meth added (perhaps just enough to compensate for the retarding of timing cause by water only systems.....???? well....do have to go to my room or what....

pb....

 

Don't know, but I think you might be on to something, Pastor Bob....

Need a meth only reservoir, and a solenoid actuated proportioning valve as a tee to the low percentage 'Normal' water/meth fluid before the Sureflo inlet. That's assuming one could determine the correct amount of 'booster' meth to add for 'Power' mode as opposed to 'Normal' or 'Towing' mode. Hit the button and the Full Whammy fluid flows! Probably want to exercise some extreme care in placement of straight meth reservoir as the stuff is much more volatile without 75%-60% water added.

If one could use a ball valve with a lever connected to a solenoid it shouldn't be that difficult. As it's only adding the missing 15%-25% it might not be such a heavy horsepower hit all at once, again don't know....

 

One could have two seperate tanks, with two seperate concentrations of methanol, and a valve to switch to whichever tank he desired.

Simple, but would eleminate a lot of scientific, and electronic, proportioning.

 

I don't think having two tanks and mixing them while injecting is practical. The main reason is that 100% meth is VERY flammable. Another reason is the electric proportioning valves are very expensive (for accurate ones).

Another thing is, the % of meth and water does not seem to affect EGT's as much as most people assume. I don't notice too much power for towing with a 55% water/45% meth mix because of the variable controller. It will only inject at 100% duty cycle if the boost is at or above 30psi and I have yet to see 30psi while towing. Even if you do hit 30psi and there is too much power you can just adjust the "Tune" **** down a couple of positions and lower the pump's duty cycle.

If I really want to run less than the 45% that's in my tank now, I can just add a little water to top it off.

EDIT: Now that I think about it some, while towing there is sometimes a little too much boost/power and it builds a little too quickly with a high concentration of meth. Lowering the pump duty cycle helps, but lowering the concentration of meth while towing would be the right solution.

 

Hmmm...now that's a practical idea! Not sure how much one would actually switch back and forth, but using a solenoid on each tank-to-pump supply line you could have a switch in the cab that controlled it all. That would be really easy to install once you already have the system in place. Anyone know where you can get a switch that's prelabled with "Power" and "Tow/Haul"...that would be soooo cool!

 

no but you could have one made up prighty cheep!!!!!!

 

I have heard on this site that over 20 psi or so on an H1C is a waste because the excessive heat buildup overcomes the density improvements from boosting.

I'm guessing Water/Meth cheats this figure, but how much? Is 45psi rediculous?